Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone
IF I were replacing the clutch... one thing I have not seen anyone mention replacing is the rear crankshaft seal. That seal is known to leak. You will probably need a seal puller tool and a tool to press in the new crankshaft seal.  |
I inspected the seal and looked fine to me. I did not want to change it if I didn't have to, much more chance of creating a leak in my opinion. You have to unbolt 2 bolts on the engine sump and two bolts on the crankshaft seal plate. The plate removes and you can remove the crank seal by hand. Since the plate is part of the surface for the oil pan you have to be very careful not to damage the gasket. The installs I've seen use gasket sealer on the surface to prevent leaks. Sounds dodgy and a decent chance of creating a leak on the oil pan to me.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DR-JEKL
Yeah that face doesnt look too bad, looks simple to machine to me though 
If you had your time over again would you have replaced the DM flywheel or just reused it?
I'm at 80k kays, and will take me another 10 years to get to the kays your car has but admittedly im putting out a tad more power than you.. |
Yeah the face just looks a little discoloured but looks like it might just be clutch material. Doesn't look too hard to machine to me, only the flywheel toothed ring is the sprung so it doesn't look too hard to clamp on a big lathe. You really don't want to get any metal shavings inside of the dual mass mechanism though, I think LUK quoted that as one of the reasons why you shouldn't machine it.
I would still have just bought a new one. Would prefer to have a new flywheel ready and just do everything in one weekend, rather than having the car's guts hanging on the garage and stressing me out. If I instead bought a 2nd hand flywheel and machined it I wouldn't have saved much money.
In your case, your flywheel has low kms and its not your daily driver, might make more sense for you to get yours machined.