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From what I understand, orientation doesn't matter at all. Fluid dynamics dictate that oil pressure will purge air or something like that.
Mounting a large cooler is tricky to get the fitment right as there isn't much room in the wheel well. You need to mount it as forward as possible to clear the wheel at full lock but then the headlight and HID ballast gets in the way. You'll have to use your imagination on how to design a bracket that gets the placement right. Pop a screw up into the headlight support bracket on one and and connect the other end to the frame rail with an L-bracket. I did a whole write-up on this "diy oil cooler retrofit on a budget."
An oil thermostat is a waste of money. Stock range is perfectly fine.
Parallel does produce superior heat exchange, but, it's harder to implement. The factory oil thermostat housing gives you ports to run a second cooler in parallel. The hard parts is getting the fluid dynamics right. You need to use two cores of the EXACT same same and use oil lines of the EXACT same length or one core will not get as much flow (path of least resistance). Hence why people like berk never had any success adding a 26row on top of the stock 10row when trying to run them in parallel.
The above comments about parallel vs series are incorrect in regard to which is better at cooling. however, he is right that plumbing in series is just plain easier.
I agree on the rubber gormets as well. Just go grab some cheap rubber o-rings from home depot and put them in-between every bolt you use to mount the cooler. It will help a little. The OE cooler is mounted using rubber bushings.
The biggest issue not covered here is ducting. You have ot find a way to seal the oil cooler to the front bumper. Use aluminum sheets from home depot to build a shroud. That is a PIA to get right, but, cooling will improve drastically over just dumping a 26row into the wheel well. That won't do jack since air will just go around it.
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