BMW 1 Series Coupe Forum / 1 Series Convertible Forum (1M / tii / 135i / 128i / Coupe / Cabrio / Hatchback) (BMW E82 E88 128i 130i 135i) - View Single Post - Help needed with shattering or excessive vibration, loss of power.

///BYU · 02-10-2018, 06:57 PM

I had something almost identical happen the other day. This is a good thread so I want to add to it instead of creating a new one.

I was cruising along between 2,000-3,000 rpm and decided to accelerate. I didn't floor it, but I did accelerate somewhat briskly. Just after depressing the accelerator, I felt power cut out twice in rapid succession. It almost felt like traction control was intervening when it shouldn't have been.

The same thing had happened a couple of days before under the same circumstances, so I decided to see if I could reproduce the problem again. I accelerated again (this time even more briskly - and without backing off right away like I had the previous two times). This time, I felt a definite shudder / stutter / stumble / loss of power AND the check engine light came on.

I wasn't expecting a check engine light and I wasn't really close to home. Right away, I went into the gentlest / smoothest cruise mode I could manage, while still going the speed limit. As long as I was cruising along, everything was normal, but I was getting a misfire with even less acceleration than before. I did what I could to avoid putting load on the engine. On iDrive, Vehicle Info >> Vehicle status >> Check Control showed "All systems OK," which I thought was interesting since I had a CEL. I had about 5 miles to go before I arrived at a meeting I was going to. Driving very gently, the check engine light went off on its own just before I arrived at my destination.

After my meeting, I had a 14-mile drive home. The car started up just fine, no check engine light, and I had an uneventful drive home. I definitely took it easy and, thankfully, didn't feel any misfiring.

I have Carly for BMW, so when I got home I connected it and ran the diagnostic. There was a fault - 0x29CF: Misfire, cylinder 3: injection is switched off. The freeze frame data show that the fault was recorded at 53,980 miles / 86,872 km, so I'm guessing the fault code is from the first time I noticed the problem, a few days before I actually got the check engine light. It also shows my engine speed at the time of the fault was 3,488 rpm and the engine temp was 93.75 C / 201 F. I think the "injection is switched off" note in the fault code indicates a preventative measure programmed into the engine software, not necessarily a problem with the fuel injection.

My (completely stock) 1M has 54,013 miles / 86,925 km and the spark plugs were changed at 28,160 miles / 45,319 km (25,853 miles / 41,606 km ago).

I think my options come down to the following:

Spark plug quantity: Planning to replace all 6 since I'm close to the replacement interval anyway UPDATE: Replaced all 6 spark plugs

Spark plug brand: Planning on Bosch, but will think about NGK UPDATE: Went with BMW OE spark plugs (12 12 0 037 244) made by Bosch. These are the factory spark plugs for the 1M

Ignition coil quantity: Will do a little more research to decide if I want to just replace the coil for cylinder #3 or go ahead and replace them all. Leaning toward replacing them all, since I'm likely to go with Delphi or Eldor and I want all 6 coils to be the same brand (I'm guessing the original 2011 coils from the factory are made by Bosch) UPDATE Replaced all 6 ignition coils

Ignition coil brand: Bosch, Eldor, or Delphi. Leaning away from Bosch, will likely choose between Eldor and Delphi UPDATE: Went with Delphi (GN10571-12B1). This is the same part as the BMW OE ignition coils (12 13 8 616 153) made by Delphi and specified for the S55 (and also N55) engine. After doing some online research - and according to Eagle01's dealer (see posts #25 and #32 of this thread) - this seems like the best ignition coil for the N54 at the moment

Media blast / walnut blast: I was planning on doing this at around 60,000 miles / 100,000 km anyway. Rather than do it at the same time as replacing the plugs and coil(s), I'll probably wait a few weeks / months for two reasons. First, I'm curious to know if replacing the plugs and coil(s) solves the misfire problem - or if media blasting was really what I needed all along. Second, I want to know how much of a difference media blasting makes to how my car drives; I want to isolate this so any improvements can be clearly attributed to media blasting and not other changes that were made at the same time.

Fuel injectors: I'm only going to look at replacing injectors if new plugs, new coils, and media blasting don't solve the problem, which I'm pretty confident they will. Hoping I don't have to do anything with the fuel injectors because they're expensive little guys.

I'll update this post as I go.

02-10-2018, 06:57 PM	#27
///BYU Lieutenant 269 Rep 470 Posts Drives: AW 1M Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Salt Lake City, UT iTrader: (1)	I had something almost identical happen the other day. This is a good thread so I want to add to it instead of creating a new one. I was cruising along between 2,000-3,000 rpm and decided to accelerate. I didn't floor it, but I did accelerate somewhat briskly. Just after depressing the accelerator, I felt power cut out twice in rapid succession. It almost felt like traction control was intervening when it shouldn't have been. The same thing had happened a couple of days before under the same circumstances, so I decided to see if I could reproduce the problem again. I accelerated again (this time even more briskly - and without backing off right away like I had the previous two times). This time, I felt a definite shudder / stutter / stumble / loss of power AND the check engine light came on. I wasn't expecting a check engine light and I wasn't really close to home. Right away, I went into the gentlest / smoothest cruise mode I could manage, while still going the speed limit. As long as I was cruising along, everything was normal, but I was getting a misfire with even less acceleration than before. I did what I could to avoid putting load on the engine. On iDrive, Vehicle Info >> Vehicle status >> Check Control showed "All systems OK," which I thought was interesting since I had a CEL. I had about 5 miles to go before I arrived at a meeting I was going to. Driving very gently, the check engine light went off on its own just before I arrived at my destination. After my meeting, I had a 14-mile drive home. The car started up just fine, no check engine light, and I had an uneventful drive home. I definitely took it easy and, thankfully, didn't feel any misfiring. I have Carly for BMW, so when I got home I connected it and ran the diagnostic. There was a fault - 0x29CF: Misfire, cylinder 3: injection is switched off. The freeze frame data show that the fault was recorded at 53,980 miles / 86,872 km, so I'm guessing the fault code is from the first time I noticed the problem, a few days before I actually got the check engine light. It also shows my engine speed at the time of the fault was 3,488 rpm and the engine temp was 93.75 C / 201 F. I think the "injection is switched off" note in the fault code indicates a preventative measure programmed into the engine software, not necessarily a problem with the fuel injection. My (completely stock) 1M has 54,013 miles / 86,925 km and the spark plugs were changed at 28,160 miles / 45,319 km (25,853 miles / 41,606 km ago). I think my options come down to the following: Spark plug quantity: Planning to replace all 6 since I'm close to the replacement interval anyway UPDATE: Replaced all 6 spark plugs Spark plug brand: Planning on Bosch, but will think about NGK UPDATE: Went with BMW OE spark plugs (12 12 0 037 244) made by Bosch. These are the factory spark plugs for the 1M Ignition coil quantity: Will do a little more research to decide if I want to just replace the coil for cylinder #3 or go ahead and replace them all. Leaning toward replacing them all, since I'm likely to go with Delphi or Eldor and I want all 6 coils to be the same brand (I'm guessing the original 2011 coils from the factory are made by Bosch) UPDATE Replaced all 6 ignition coils Ignition coil brand: Bosch, Eldor, or Delphi. Leaning away from Bosch, will likely choose between Eldor and Delphi UPDATE: Went with Delphi (GN10571-12B1). This is the same part as the BMW OE ignition coils (12 13 8 616 153) made by Delphi and specified for the S55 (and also N55) engine. After doing some online research - and according to Eagle01's dealer (see posts #25 and #32 of this thread) - this seems like the best ignition coil for the N54 at the moment Media blast / walnut blast: I was planning on doing this at around 60,000 miles / 100,000 km anyway. Rather than do it at the same time as replacing the plugs and coil(s), I'll probably wait a few weeks / months for two reasons. First, I'm curious to know if replacing the plugs and coil(s) solves the misfire problem - or if media blasting was really what I needed all along. Second, I want to know how much of a difference media blasting makes to how my car drives; I want to isolate this so any improvements can be clearly attributed to media blasting and not other changes that were made at the same time. Fuel injectors: I'm only going to look at replacing injectors if new plugs, new coils, and media blasting don't solve the problem, which I'm pretty confident they will. Hoping I don't have to do anything with the fuel injectors because they're expensive little guys. I'll update this post as I go. Last edited by ///BYU; 02-22-2018 at 07:09 PM..
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