[chris_flies]

I'm on Eibach Pro-Kit springs, Dinan plates, and M arms. I can get a maximum -3.5* camber on the front left and -2.5* on the front right. Right now, I have it at -2.5*. fe1rx points out in his Ohlins thread, that, on a radial tire, every degree of negative camber should be met with .1 degree of toe-out to counteract the steering effect the camber introduces. That said, I've got .2 degrees of toe-out to match my -2.5 degrees of camber. The front feels very capable and stable, and my tire wear at my last track day was perfectly even. In the rear I'm running -1.7 degrees of camber and zero toe because you want the toe-in effect for stability reasons. It's very stable, but it's responsive at the same time. The car was rotating beautifully at the track, and feels amazingly capable on the street. I've got a set of Ohlins on the way, and that's going to tie-together my suspension for now...

Edit: This is my new track season alignment. Once we get back to winter *sigh*, I'll zero the toe up front for tire wear reasons (I won't be cornering in nearly the same manner). Without M front arms, you'll probably be able to get a maximum of -2 degrees of camber up front (the arms generally add about -.5 degrees). You could use a rat tail file to extend the strut mount holes inwards to give you more. Our cars don't have the weak strut towers that earlier BMW's have, but you wouldn't want to go too crazy.