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      05-17-2019, 05:55 AM   #10
rowsdower
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Drives: 2011 128i 6MT Sport
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Texas

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Quote:
Originally Posted by scalku View Post
You won't have rubbing issues with 235/40's once you get the negative camber up front from the m3 arms. Apex has a very extensive fitment guide on their website you should check out to prove so.
It's been confirmed in other threads that adding only the M3 arms increases likelihood of rubbing. The strut is mounted to a fixed point at the top, and the longer M3 arms push the bottom of the wheel out to add camber. The best explanation I've read is to hold up a pen at the top and push the bottom to one side. The entire pen moves out, not just the bottom. The amount a particular point moves is dependent on how far it is from the top of the pen. Accordingly, adding M3 arms pushes the entire strut and wheel assembly out. The top of the wheel moves less than the bottom of the wheel, but does move toward the fender some amount. Camber plates move the top of the strut inboard, so imagine holding the pen at the bottom and moving the top over to one side. The entire strut/wheel assembly above the arm attachment point moves inboard, adding fender clearance.

Also, I am not sure I agree with the suggestion to forego replacing dampers in favor of going to full poly bushings. OP is talking about a suspension refresh on 100k+ suspension. I think dampers are where I would start. My struts were shot at 80k last year and I went with Eibach pro-kit springs with Koni Sport dampers ("yellows"), and did Dinan plates, M3 arms, and Whiteline 2-piece subframe bushings at the same time. The car is noticeably firmer and harsher, and works great at the track. I don't think you can go wrong with Konis or the Bilstein B12/B8 option as they seem to be available again.

Last edited by rowsdower; 05-17-2019 at 06:04 AM..