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Originally Posted by RyanDavies
That's a pretty seriously rear-biased setup. Especially out of a 135, I'm surprised you can ever get power down, particularly on RS3s.
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Definitely disappointed in the RS3's.
A 6k/16k setup is actually not over-steer biased at all. It is actually slightly under-steer biased, but is fairly neutral and it drives that way. Effective wheel rates are close to 309/285 (1.99/1.95hz) which is why I also deleted the front sway altogether.
Putting power down hasn't seemed to be effected that much at all. I feel like the car handles much better now that I am no longer dragging around the rear suspension. With 6k/12k and a big front bar I felt like the car plowed like crazy on turn in. The suspension was still rolling even after the front tires had turned in and taken set. The stiff front and soft rear setup just wasn't working for me. I felt like I had to drift the car around the course to get it to turn (slow in fast out).
The extra weight on the outside front tire (less squat with the stiffer rear springs) seems to allow me to drive the car around corners more, albeit with a much more careful left foot on the gas peddle. The car goes where I point it. Having 500wtq makes up for needing to wait a split second longer to get back on power on exit. I appreciate being able to toss the car into corners at higher speeds though. The outside REAR wheel seems to be doing MORE for me now instead of the suspension just rolling over... basically cross weight remains neutral during roll.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanDavies
I'm doing some light-ish prep bringing my car back to STX-ish setup. I've been running a Corvette all year and highly prefer it in just about every way other than street driving, and for that they're pretty close...
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I was surprised by how nimble a corvette can be on a tight autocross course. If only I could afford one for warm weather driving lol.
I don't think I'll ever de-mod my 135i just to be class competitive in autocross. My first event was a thrill, but the novelty has worn off already. Something about standing around for 6 hours to drive for 4 minutes doesn't do "it" for me. Not to mention the cost/value isn't there either. Latest even was pretty far away requiring bridge tolls, gas, and an entry fee of $90. People only got 5 runs. It's hard to even learn a course in 5 runs lol.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanDavies
I still have all the power stuff off my old car, so still 24(2)?/221 for power. Still have the diffsonline diff, and H&R rear bar.
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It's pretty awesome to see what people are doing with the 128i. Mine made 214/210 with light mods before I moved to the 135i. I might've been happy had I gotten headers and tune for 23xwhp. In a lot of ways 128i tuning knowledge exceeds what n55 tuners have experimented with.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanDavies
After Jeff Wong's success developing Megan Racing shocks for the FRS, I'm picking up a set for my car. This mostly just started with me wanting to keep the Forgestars on the car, and I needed camber to do so, and a lower ride height to not look ridiculous. I'll be pretty much full weight (3050 or so). Keeping the SuperPro 27mm bar up front, 450/850 or so for springs, and shooting for 3.5F/2.5R camber with around 1/8 toe in rear to start.
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I thought you were talking about how you plan to setup the FRS LOL That setup would actually make a lot of sense on an FRS.
For the 1-series, I needed over 2* camber to fit my 17x9 setup so I can see how that is a good reason to run more camber. The 27mm bar and 450/850 rates are where a good amount of people are at with there 1-series setups. 850 rear spring is 15k. Not far off at all from my 16k (896 lb/in). The front spring and bar is where I get lost. Your front wheel rate is going to be 153% stiffer than your rear wheel rate. The 27mm bar on top of that is going to effectively add another couple hundred lbs of spring rate. Your cross weight under load is way out...