Yes, I have all the popular M3 bits in the front, including the sway bar and control arms. Good call on the tie rod - will have to get those too.
I have the HPA adjustable sway bar endlinks so that should be no problem with the different pickup point.
Car has the non-M Ohlins kit which has been performing beautifully for both the street and track, but I’ve been experiencing coil bind on the 7” front springs (7kg/mm, or 392lb/in) which are needed for adequate tire clearance. Unfortunately, with the non-M dampers, there needs to be a good amount of preload for proper fitment in our chassis, which does not help coil bind. The tire is also rubbing away at the metal next to the strut tower on hard compression at the track.
The best solution would be to upgrade to the 1M Ohlins front dampers, where the preload adjustment is independent of the spring perch/height adjustment (plus better valving), and what you did to the front is the ticket
I’ll read up on the threads by fe1rx and TUN3D - thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by drwillb
Yes, those two parts are needed. Are you also doing the M3 control arms and tie rod? If you do the control arms then the tie rod is necessary because the 135 rod is a bit shorter and you end up needing to wind out the end fitting so it’s not biting a lot of threads on the rod. That’s my understanding. The 135 rod tie rod will work but may become a safety issue. I do recommend the control arms because of the bearings vs. bushings on the ends. You have to read the posts by Felix for this.
You’re also going to need sway bar links. These have a different pickup point on the M than on the 135.
If you’re doing the control arms then you’ll also need the specific headlight leveling sensor.
As I stated in a post above: if you're going to do the front end, do all the bits for the front. Yes, it's expensive but the car is totally transformed. I ran the car with full 1M front and full stock rear for 3 years and it was SO much better than stock. Running the 255 tires all around and much tighter M front was a huge improvement. Adding all the rear parts makes you realize why the 1M is so highly regarded.
Any way, I used the threads by TUN3D to guide me through this. His work was documented down to the nut and bolt. My goal was not to re-write a how-to. My focus has been on documenting problems that come up when going through this build.
I couldn't have done it without this:
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=862256
Here's the front end thread. This includes a full parts list with parts numbers:
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1058161 |