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      03-07-2019, 06:09 PM   #18
adityagandav
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Drives: bmw e90
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: india

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Quote:
Originally Posted by reisf View Post
So over the last 3 months i had been attempting to install the Individual Audio System i got from a 2012 e92 M3. This is considered one step "better" than the Harmon Kardon system and is an option that is only available on M cars. I finally succeeded in getting this system to work a couple days ago and thought i'd put together an instructional for future reference.

The same general procedure can be used to retrofit the normal Logic 7/Harmon Kardon system (in theory) and i will point out the differences.

First let me say that this is a fairly involved retrofit this instructional assumes basic knowledge on existing audio wiring, the vehicles electronics and the MOST bus. This is also the first DIY I have made so forgive me if i have made any mistakes.

As usual this is purely informative, proceed at your own risk.

Let's start with the parts needed:
1. Individual Audio Amp
2. Individual Audio System Speakers (the full individual audio system uses 13 speakers total, but i only installed them in the existing locations and may add the remaining speakers later)
3. 10 gauge speaker wiring for power
5. 2 x 9.5mm spade socket contacts (generic)
6. 4 x 4mm spade socket contact
6. Inline fuse holder and fuse (50 Amp)
7. 2 Ring terminals (generic)
8. 15 meters of speaker wire
9. 20 pin amp connector 61131383502
10. 20 round socket contacts for 20 pin connector 61130007571
11. Some MOST Bus wiring - this is hard to explain but what you need is the complete wiring with the connector that runs from a MOST device to the MOST distribution block - More on this later.
12. Some heat shrink and electrical tape
13. And of course Coding Tools.

Ok so now let's begin:
First here's a picture of the connectors on the amp:



1. Create the power cable by crimping 2 ring terminals to the same end.
Also add an inline fuse the the positive cable.
Attach power here



And ground here



But don't do that now, we'll leave that until the end.

At the other end of the cable, crimp the two 9.5mm spade sockets and heat shrink to isolate. On the amp (going left to right on the 2 pin blade style socket) pin 2 is negative, pin 1 is positive.
2. Create the MOST jumper - (This step is not needed for logic 7/HK Amp)
Here is a close up of the MOST socket.



The top two metal pins in the socket need to be bridged with a "jumper". In other words, Pin 1 needs to be connected to Pin 2.

This can be done in one of two ways.
I) using this sort of thing



crimp two pins to one wire and insert into the socket, the insert into the MOST socket using tweezers.
II) Using the OEM wiring. This socket is identical to the CD Changer MOST socket, but different from that of the MULF/TCU/Combox. You need whole whole length of wire that runs from the MOST distribution block to the plug/connector. I got this from an old e90 at a wreckers for $10. It has two fibre optic cables and 2 copper cables going to Pins 1 and 2 and it will be the same connector. It was the easy to create the "Jumper" connection as i just soldered the to copper wires together.
This is what it looks like:



Green = fibre optic
brown = copper cables.

Here is a a close up of the connector



3. Add to MOST Loop at the MOST Distribution block.

In my car (e87), the MOST distribution block was under the left rear passenger bolster. To remove it you just pull it out.

This is what it looks like:



Now before you go any further it is important the label each cable that comes in and out of that connector. You will need to sort of "trace" the wires to where they go. Identify the wires coming from your head unit/radio and which wires are going to MOST devices in your boot (MULF/COMBOX/TCU).
It is kind of hard to explain what this thing is, but i'll try. This is like a junction box that connects all MOST devices together. In other words, this links the output of one device to the input of another device.

Here's a crude sketch that i hope explains how this works.

Before:



After:



Be very careful at this stage.
You need to pry apart the connectors using a watch maker's screw driver (very small flat head screw driver). Then you can rearrange the fibre optic wires by lifting the small plastic tab in top of the connector and then removing the cable. Your wiring will vary according to what options you have. basically, you move the rightmost 2 pins over 1 position and insert the new wires in the new space. Just keep thinking "loop" and it will make sense. If you follow the wiring in the above diagrams you will see how one device links to the next to create a loop.

And now with the amp in the loop.



4. Now the next step is to create the replacement speaker harness.

Here's the wiring diagram:



Just crimp the sockets (part #10 above 61130007571) to speaker wire and insert into the 20 pin socket.

For the remaining Pins, crimp to blank wire and insert into the plugs. Wrap the ends of the wires coming from pins 10 and 20 in electrical tape to isolate as these output 12V.

Measure out 4 lengths of speaker wire and run them to the left and right footwells (2 for each)
Measure out 2 lengths of speaker wire and run them to the left and right rear speakers.

For the rear speakers i used this sort of generic connector to leave the original wiring unharmed.



Then for the front speakers i crimped a spade terminal (part #6 mentioned above) and then plugged them into the socket (Pins 1 & 4) under the seats which runs to the door speakers (this is the setup for the base stereo system).



Unfortunately i don't have any pictures for the under seat subwoofer's as i had already installed these + wiring earlier. The process is essentially the same.

* Almost there *

5. Install speakers - Replace all speakers with Individual Audio Speakers. I won't include info on this as this is really straight forward + has plenty of info already.

6. Coding - Using NCSExpert update your vehicle order by removing you're old audio system option code (HIFI - 676, base stereo has none) and replace it with 752. Write your new VO to your CAS and NFRM and then recode your CIC module.

....And you're Done

If you're coming from logic 7/HK (677 or 688) you *shouldn't* need to do any coding if you don't want to.

Other notes:

1. For the e87, if you have no existing amplified sound system, you will need to buy an amp bracket - 65126927697 and 2 locking brackets - 65126908277
2. You will also need to replace the left boot trim. If you have CD changer preparation then you should be fine, just remove the CD Changer bracket.
3. If you are having no sound after this upgrade, double and triple check the MOST Bus wiring. You can confirm this as a problem with the MOST bus by trying to access the bluetooth telephone on your iDrive. If it keeps saying "Please wait" for over 20 seconds there is a problem with the loop.
4. As far as i'm aware, individual audio requires the CIC navigations system (609)
where does the power come for a logic 7 amp?