Quote:
Originally Posted by iminhell1
I'll weigh in,
102,xxx far as I know all rear arms/bushings are stock. I did the whiteline subframe inserts though.
Just did the mfactory lsd and coded out the e-lsd, I think. Pretty sure it worked.
I am FBO +inlets and E60, kill mode is 34psi.
My issue was I make far more power than the ediff was designed to handle, as well as every bushing. When the E would activate the car was very loose. It felt like all the bushings where filled with water, rear just wanted to go everywhere and the brakes tried to correct it.
After the lsd, virtually all sorted.
I'm not saying bushings/arms won't help because I'm sure they do. What I'm saying is the major issue is how the Ediff works. It is designed and programed for safety, not fun.
If there is a way to log wheel speed sensors, I'd look into that and compare it to how loose the car feels. If a loose feeling correlates to wheel speed, then it's a good bet the ediff is active and is the culprit. If they are same/very similar than call it a bushing problem.
Either edibas or carly might be a good choice to look for wheel speed info.
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I've been saying this for a while. E-diff works well, but you feel the torque pulsate left to right as it does it's thing. You feel it more and more as you get more aggressive with tires and brakes... I run rcomps now and the inside wheel has slipped on me and then the e-diff applied the inside brake causing to tire to grab and the car to launched/torque-steer itself out of the turn way off line... E-diff definitely causes weight to shift and bushings to "wind-up." Toe arms help alleviate this, but a smoother operating mechanical differential would help too... And it doesn't kill your lap times by constantly braking wheels to keep them at the same wheel speed.