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      02-21-2020, 07:59 PM   #6
Delta_V
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Drives: 2013 135i
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Reno, NV

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I will probably wait on the bushings another few months, just purchased a BMW performance exhaust from a member here that I will be throwing on when it arrives..til then il just be finishing up with rust removal and making a list of all the fasteners I want to replace. Essentially anything under the car that was exposed needs to be at a minimum loosened and retorqued after cleaning or applying anti seize. As many of you know the rust travels up the threads even if the head of the bolt looks good, so I just want to squash the items LIKE subframe bushing bolts, shocks mount bolts, alignment bolts etc that will important for maintenance later.

Today I brushed for another few hours to get as much as I could with the tools available. For the area's I could see but couldn't reach with a brush I used a cleaner/degreaser and then brake cleaner and alcohol to make it as clean of a surface as possible for the rust converter.

I decided to use Rust-Oleum rust reformer as it has good reviews and I've used it in the past with success. It's also affordable and available at most hardware stores.

After I cleaned up what was leftover from yesterday I removed the heat shield and exposed the driveshaft. Not super happy with the u joint condition, but I was able to brush about 90% or more of the rust away from outside and inside of the joint. I was also able to clean off the driveshaft to a very acceptable finish.

After that, I started prepping by using high pressure air to blow out anywhere and everywhere that would be painted. Then I rinsed with warm water in a spray bottle to get the remainder off. Finally I used brake cleaner and mineral spirits to completely remove all contaminants from the surface .

I also removed the right rear caliper and replaced the rotor l. When compressing the brake pads in the caliper a small amount of brake fluid seeped from the piston-im hoping it was slightly over extended from being off of the rotor overnight and so a bit seeped past and then surged out when compressed. I reassmbled it and il check it tomorrow and hope I find no brake fluid...!


These are some photos from today. The rust reformer turns rust to a matte black finish, and has a black primerish paint within it. I coated everything I wanted to tonight and il let it cure for 24 hours to ensure the chemical processes are complete.

Tomorrow il lay a top coat of gloss black engine enamel (which wasn't really necessary, but here's to hoping it's a hard drying paint like I want it to be).
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