Burger Tuning SSK
The BMS Short Shift Kit is made by Shiftek. I picked up the E series N54 version from another member. I don't usually buy used parts from persons unknown, but I couldn't pass up this deal. Glad I took the chance, the part was in good condition.
I found the install to be a bit of a PITA. Not difficult by any means, but really tight space. In particular, the rubber seal boot on the shift arm itself was a huge pain to get out, and then back in again.
Order of operation was the following:
1. remove knob and shift boot
2. remove huge foam insulation, then smaller foam cutout beneath
3. remove rubber boot (PITA). I found the best way to do it was to peel up the neck, and pull it off backwards. It's really stuck on there.
4. get under car and remove triangular pan (8mm screws)
5. remove 10mm nuts and bend back heat shield
6. remove c-clip on stock shift lever, slide linkage pin out of bearing
7. Use needle nose pliers to rotate bushing on shifter 90*, it only rotates one way, go gently
8. Pull out stock shifter!
9. Replace with new SSK, attach with small hex screws. I had a small set torx, luckily had a T10 torx key which fit in the small space well. If you don't have those, I would recommend using a saw to cut an allen key. My shifter was gently used, and preassembled from the previous owner, but there are a few clips and springs to assemble between the carrier and shifter if not. It's all super tight!
10. Reverse the rest.
Here are the pictures.
Stock shifter.
BMS SSK installed. Important to orient the bend in the same direction as stock, towards you!
The small hex screws are between the metal carrier body and the center console frame. Super tight space in there. As I said above, luckily I had a small torx key that fit. Many folks cut an allen key. Glad I didn't have to ruin one of my allen keys. I fit the screws on the right in by hand from the cabin. The screws on the left I had to fit from below the car, and blindly. Not a big deal, just time consuming.
Rubber boot back in. This thing is evil.
Foam insulation back in. The upper block is really deceptively large. The plastic clip you see on top is scavenged from the original BMW shift boot. I use it in this orientation to make my Redline Goods shift boot fit well.
Shift boot and knob reinstalled
Impressions
I love this shift kit. The larger hex screw seen on the shifter shaft allows the knob height to be adjusted up and down, as well as allowing the knob itself to be rotated to suit the drivers hand. I adjusted mine all the way down, and rotated the knob a tiny bit clockwise. Seems to fit my hand and arm position much better now.
Now, this does not fit as perfectly as the OE BMW shift kits. The shift knob is now oriented slightly away from me (read, towards the passenger) when in neutral. Additionally, I need to source a teflon washer for the linkage pin. The new SSK bushings aren't as wide as the OE bushing. This translates to slight play when shifting into 5th and 6th. It's worth noting that this "play" is still tighter and precise than my stock shifter was, but I suspect that's because my stock shifter was worn out.
The knob being oriented a little away from me is definitely different. It does put the 1-2-3-4 shifts in almost a straight line, which I really like. The gates for 5 & 6 now feel a little far away, but I'm already getting used to it, and my arm is in a generally better position for driving. I'm still not sure how I definitively feel about the change, but so far it's growing on me.
Overall, it's a huge win. With the combination of a (1cm?) lower knob, ~30% shorter throw, and increased rigidity thanks to the coil sprung metal ball jointed shifter, my gear throws finally feel SOMEWHAT reminiscent of those from my old Honda 6MT. Still not as good though. Maybe the billet shift rod will get me to that smooth rifle bolt action I've been pining after.