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      09-26-2018, 09:21 AM   #1
Cavpilot2k
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SES when overdue on oil change? - New Issue

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So I got an SES light this morning.
I am showing 500 miles overdue for oil change by the condition-based-maintenance monitoring system.

Does the system pop an SES when overdue?
The oil quantity measuring says it is not low.

I scheduled an oil change for tomorrow. Just this morning I got an email from the dealership offering a $69.95 oil change (normal BMW synthetic, filter, wash, and vacuum). Shit, I can't buy the oil and do it myself that cheap!
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Last edited by Cavpilot2k; 09-30-2018 at 11:07 AM..
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      09-26-2018, 09:55 AM   #2
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Yeah, I didn't think they were related, but I was just hoping for a break...
It is idling a little rough this morning too. I tried to play it off as automotive hypochondria, but I guess not.

I don't have a code reader. I need to get one and a dongle. ASAP.

Unfortunately this car lately has really been pissing me off.
Charge pipe blew 2 months ago, anomalous electric system error two days ago (that went away) - possibly (hopefully) battery needing replaced, and this morning TPMS malfunction message and SES.

Oh, and the belt has been squealing.

I know it's mostly stuff that is expected, given the cars mileage (CP, battery, belt), but it's got me thinking about a new car a lot lately.
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      09-26-2018, 11:47 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OnerDriver View Post
I know the feeling

If it's idling rough it's probably misfiring, which is common... and is usually either the coil, plug or (worse) injector.

A quick scan (if you drive by an auto parts store they scan it for free) will tell you which cylinder.
That's what I'm thinking. The plugs were replaced only about 15k miles ago, but the coils have not been yet (it's on my to-do list). Hopefully it's not an injector.
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      09-26-2018, 02:34 PM   #4
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Code reading came up with two issues:
MAF/MAP sensor and valve diaphragm.
I think it's the MAF/MAP sensor that is actually throwing the CEL though.
I'm going to troubleshoot it tonight, then clean, and probably replace it.
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      09-26-2018, 03:22 PM   #5
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Actually I just looked at the end of the charge pipe I installed a few weeks ago and it looks like the C-clip has slipped out of place.
I bet I'm leaking boost from that end, throwing off AFR readings and making the system think the MAF/MAP has gone bad.
Gonna reseat my CP and see if that fixes the problem.
Probably can't hurt to clean the sensor too while I'm at it.
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      09-27-2018, 07:37 AM   #6
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Any recommendations on a simple code reader app and dongle, either for an iphone or a tablet?
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      09-28-2018, 03:58 PM   #7
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Just as info - my Service indicator showed 12/17 until the CEL came on in July. Reset indicator and light went away. No codes. (Yes, services were all up to date - just had not figured out how to change indicator)
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      09-28-2018, 06:33 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cavpilot2k View Post
Any recommendations on a simple code reader app and dongle, either for an iphone or a tablet?
Carly.
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      09-29-2018, 11:46 AM   #9
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OnerDriver - thanks, was curious about that. No repeatability on CEL (yellow) since.
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      09-30-2018, 09:39 AM   #10
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Interesting information. In my situation, I think it was about 4-6 starts, but since I was not counting, could have been eight. Regardless, has not reappeared.
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      09-30-2018, 10:28 AM   #11
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So in my case, I had it read by a friendly place that didn't charge me.
They said I had two issues show up:
One was the MAP sensor. So I took it out, cleaned it, reseated it with a new O-ring (the old one was damaged), and just for good measure, replaced the o-ring in the charge pipe where it attaches to the throttle body.
None of that helped.

So I replaced the MAP sensor altogether with a new one. Still no good. My guess is that the MAP code is probably now gone, but my SES light is still on for the second issue they found, which is:

Bad valve cover diaphragm.
I have been able to find almost no info online about the valve cover diaphragm, which I assume is different from the gasket. ANyway, the tech I spoke to said it is integral to the valve cover and you usually have to replace the valve cover to fix it.

The problem manifests itself when I push the car hard and it gets up around or above 3000 RPM under high boost, it sounds like it leaks/vents all the boost with a fart-like sound and power drops like I just took my foot off the gas.

Fucking annoying, all this happening at once. It almost had me trading my 135 for a Mustang GT yesterday.

Anyway, any insights into this issue and/or the valve diaphragm?
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      09-30-2018, 10:29 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech View Post
Carly.
Thanks.
Please see my post just above this one. I'd appreciate your input on the valve diaphragm issue.
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      09-30-2018, 11:07 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech View Post
Carly.
Carly device enroute.
Long overdue, really.
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      09-30-2018, 05:38 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cavpilot2k View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech View Post
Carly.
Thanks.
Please see my post just above this one. I'd appreciate your input on the valve diaphragm issue.
Sounds like you need a new valve cover.

See this thread with good info.

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1293481
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      10-01-2018, 12:08 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech View Post
Sounds like you need a new valve cover.

See this thread with good info.

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1293481
Ugh. I've been having what I thought was belt squealing lately, but in light of recent developments and reading that post, I think it may not be the belt system.

In light of reading this, I think that is likely and maybe PCV valve as well.
Can this all be fixed by replacing the valve cover, since the diaphragm is integral? Does the PCV get replaced with the valve cover (is it integral)?

This might get costly, even assuming my crankshaft seals haven't gone bad too.
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      10-03-2018, 12:47 PM   #16
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You can do an oil change for less than $65 but it is a good price from a dealer. I buy 5 qt containers of Castrol 0-40W European at Walmart for $25. I use a Mann 816X I get from Amazon for $10 delivered. So it's about $40. I'd rather do it myself partially because the dealer is on the other side of town and I can do the oil change quicker than I can drive to the dealer and back. My cover over the drain plug was also missing after the dealer services and my drain plug threads were not very smooth. I don't think they did a great job.

But you can easily do this for less than $65 in materials and use top notch materials.
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