09-09-2019, 08:25 AM | #23 |
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These were the items I used to do the actual carbon clean, Products are
a) Lube-X compression Stabiliser b) DupliColor Brake Cleaner c) Gun cleaning kit, with assorted hard brushes and cotton swabs d) Syringe to extract fluids out of Cylinder Lots of patience and rags! :P |
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M3 boi3219.00 |
09-09-2019, 08:37 AM | #24 |
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Before and after Pictures Of the throtte body and intake manifold.
Gave the throttle body a clean with the same compression stabiliser and toothbrush to get it all clean. After pic's include the part that is called the "BOV reference" and all that was required to fit this part was lubing the two o-rings inside the attachment and fitting the E-clip I also gave the manifold a clean with that spray, then power washed , before replacing gaskets with fresh, new oem gaskets from BMW. There's a random pic of the pool of degreaser/stabilizer fluid that settled in the cleaning container. Included in the bov kit, was a little block off sleeve and cable tie that closes off the existing vacuum port on the manifold. |
09-09-2019, 08:56 AM | #25 |
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On to the hardest part of this weekend. The actual cleaning. This is the process iv used previously and did the same again this weekend. I fill the chamber in "compression stabilizer solution" which basically dissolves the carbon deposit. I let the solution sit for an hour, then scrub it with the wire brushes from the gun kit. Syringe out that "used solution" then let a fresh dose of fluid sit in the cylinders to work overnight.
Syringing out the fluid cleans out about 85% of the solution which leaves the last 15% of dirt fluid around the valves. To remedy this process, i cut up section of an old cotton t-shirt and stuff it into the cylinder, i repeat this process until iv gotten out as much dirt/fluid as possible. Some pics of the end results, definitely cant compete with the time/effort/ cleanliness factor of doing a walnut blast but this method only cost me R600 ( about $50 ) as opposed to the R3800 ( $250 ) it costs to do a walnut blast over here. Instead of outlaying for the walnut blast, i opted to purchase the external pcv kit, which will hopefully remedy this problem. Ps i did have a BMS "High Side" OCC kit on my previous n54 and honestly there was hardly any fluid in that setup after many years and thousands of Kilometres worth of use. |
07-20-2020, 03:41 AM | #27 |
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My V8 M3 Cowl Retrofit, having previously done the burgermotorsports cowl delete on my previous n54, I really wanted to do this the right way, on the 1M. It took me forever and a day to source all the parts required and it really was alot of work to accomplish this.
Please mind the dirt in some of the pictures, i assure you, i cleaned everything up when i was i done with this "Test Fit" as I am still awaiting the correct fasteners from the Dealer. Most people cut the wires off and extend the wires to the pollen sensor, i tried a different approach by removing the insulation on the existing harness and was able to free up alot more slack on the pollen filter and brake fluid sensor wiring. I first recovered it back in insulation tape and then recovered the harness back in an OEM'ish like cloth material tape to make it look factory. Another issue that I had was that the washer nozzles , I purchased a set of Mini nozzles only to discover that the connectors no longer fitted into the existing T-piece, so using a rubber "glove" from a terminal kit( not documented here) i was able to get the two different sizes to mate up to one another. Another known issue is that the Bonnet sensor no longer touches the bonnet . I resolved this with the most unconventional method, using the silcone cap from a water squeeze bottle and an interior plastic grommet, coated in a lick of black paint. Last but not least, was to install the cable harness tray which fought me for a very long time to get the wires to fit but in the end, i think it looks terrific and this is how the car shouldve come from the factory. Hope you guys enjoy the pics and are inspired to do the same on your very own masterpieces 🙂 |
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M3 boi3219.00 |
07-20-2020, 03:05 PM | #29 |
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Nice! Hows the new cowl...any leakage at all?
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Current: 2020 MB M2cs, 2022 G50 X5e, 2008 4Runner
Past: a91 ref blue Zupra, 86 Starion, 350z, Supra TT Auto, Supra TT 6 spd, IM/IM E46 M3, BMW 1m Coupe x2, S2000, 987.2 CS, ND2 MX5, LSB e46 M3 x2, 993 911 |
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Boost3d_1M87.50 |
07-22-2020, 04:56 AM | #30 |
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Non whatsover and best part is the easy access to my oil catch can, which i serviced....this was just after a few hundred kilometers, whereas my old "high side" vacuum can on my previous car didnt even catch a teaspoon of oil in a few years!
I know its not much, but its comforting to know that non of this made it to the intake valves. |
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10-14-2020, 04:26 AM | #31 |
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Its been a while since I updated this thread. Thought I would post up my most recent changes. Nothing major, just two very simple changes that have made a big impact in the driving experience to me.
1) BMS Clutch Stop 2) BMS Clutch Delay Valve. |
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Tornado1M1237.00 |
11-18-2022, 05:24 PM | #33 |
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11-28-2022, 04:53 AM | #34 | |
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As i have said above, it really cleans up the engine bay quite nicely and helps free up room to the DME and charge pipe etc. The only thing that is still on my list of things to do is, is a possible Vacuum line relocation to give the engine bay a much more cleaner look . |
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11-30-2022, 01:19 AM | #35 | |
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I don't have a picture yet, but on my LHD 1M the engine wire loom (fatter of the two) goes from the ECU box on right side of engine bay (where your brake master is) over and down under the intake manifold; and seems there isn't enough slack to get up into the tray. I am going to try to find some slack and get it up into the tray, otherwise may just zip tie it to bottom side |
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11-30-2022, 05:39 AM | #36 | |
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I also struggled to get mines to work, it took me some time in that i had to first ensure that this cable harness was screwed into place because there was no way to do this after the fact. The wiring is just too tight. The second thing i had to do was put the wires in a specific order. What i did was ensure that the fattest loom went inside first ( the one you are struggling with ) denoted by the blue squiggly line. Then the slightly thinner one alongside it denoted by the red squiggly line. I then closed this up because there was no place for the additional two wires. I created a mini harness for just those two wires using insulation tape. If you follow the path of the yellow squiggly line you will see that you will be able to tuck them into the front . I am not sure if this approach will help you at all, but check to see if it cant also help you out or give you some inspiration to try something else. If worse comes to worse, use the cutouts in the tray to route and hide your ziptie but at the same time tuck that fat harness wire underneath Last edited by Boost3d_1M; 11-30-2022 at 05:47 AM.. |
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12-13-2022, 03:35 PM | #37 | |
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Boost3d_1M87.50 |
12-14-2022, 08:58 AM | #38 | |
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Love the metal vacuum canisters , oil filter housing cap, catch cans, cf airbox, & b58 coils |
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PRTSB1M339.50 |
12-15-2022, 02:18 PM | #39 |
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I've ordered a hood sensor pin from E39 (61319119057) as it appears to be longer and if it's not long enough will probably try to 3D print an extension for it (so I can ditch the electrical wiring nut extender I'm currently using)
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