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03-25-2014, 08:13 PM | #111 | |
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03-26-2014, 09:10 AM | #112 |
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I have a set of AKG Motorsport 95A (black) bushings ready to go in this weekend along with my TCKline DA coilovers. Thanks to SteveAZ for posting up details of what worked well for you!
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03-26-2014, 09:23 AM | #113 |
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Make sure they are the right size before you install them. AKG has had some issues recently with their subframe bushings for other cars.
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03-26-2014, 09:42 AM | #114 | |
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03-26-2014, 09:49 AM | #115 |
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Please post your experiences and lessons learned regarding the install when you get the chance. I am sure myself and others who are planning to do the install in the future would really appreciate it. Also would love to hear your thoughts on how you like the bushings once they are in. Last but not least, good luck!
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03-26-2014, 07:16 PM | #116 |
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Thanks for the warning Stig.
I will definitely comment on how things go and offer any pointers I come up with. I feel like I've read about someone doing this without disconnecting the rear brake line, but I can't find the post. To those that have done this already, can it be done with the brake lines still connected? I'd rather avoid the hassle if I can. |
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03-28-2014, 04:35 AM | #117 | |
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03-28-2014, 06:36 AM | #118 | |
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03-28-2014, 10:28 AM | #119 | |
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Which most amusingly usually ends up costing them more.
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03-28-2014, 03:48 PM | #120 |
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I tried the original heat and two jack stands method at first. That was the first thing I tried but I was having no luck. They said to heat for about 20 seconds or so. I did this and no luck. No I did not use a conventional press. What I ended up doing was going back to the heat method but really heating them up and using a press I made with the threaded rod and some wood I had laying around. After I figured out how to work that one it took, without exaggeration, 10 minutes to get the three other ones out. And then bolting it all back up and bleeding brakes was another hour and a half to two hours with breaks taken every so often.
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03-28-2014, 09:26 PM | #121 |
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Just got done with installing the AKG bushings. It took us under two hours. Here are a few details about my experience. Overall, it was not difficult by any means. Everything came apaet easily and smoothly. We used two jacks, a torch and a large, shallow socket to press them out. I think it was a 20mm or so. It took a good amount of heat, to the point where the bushing was smoking a bit. Just be patient and it'll come out. I left the brake lines connected, but we kept a close eye on them the whole time. For the rears, the car's weight wasn't enough to get them out, so I had two friends sit in the trunk. After they sat in there, they came right out. That's about it. If anyone has a specific question, let me know. Like steveAZ said, this is way easier than people make it out to be. If you have the tools and are comfortable using them, you'll be just fine.
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03-29-2014, 04:32 AM | #122 | ||
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2008 E88--Fuel-It! Stage 4 LPFP & PI--PS2 turbos--JB4/MHD--FBO--662whp/604wtq
2011 E90--Fuel-It! S2BL LPFP and PI--PS2 Turbo--JB4/MHD--FBO--546whp/589wtq 2013 Mini JCW--Tune--DP--FMIC--a couple Fuel-It! goodies--265whp/320wtq 2013 F10--JB4/BM3 2015 F82--Fuel-It! Stage 3 LPFP & PI--PS2 Turbos-- JB4/BM3-FBO |
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04-01-2014, 07:23 AM | #123 |
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Just completed this install (Whiteline bushings) on Saturday. I would not consider this to be a difficult job, as long as you are careful and pay attention to what you are doing while dropping the sub-frame. The actual pulling/install process isn't difficult, just time consuming.
I ended up making my own bushing puller from some 3-3/4" ID pipe for the rear, and 3-1/4" ID pipe for the front along with a thin piece of large OD aluminum round bar with a shoulder cut into it to fit into the ID the pipe so the threaded rod remains centered axially (I have access to a lathe at work). It only took about 10 minutes (and some elbow grease) to actually pull each bushing out once I got access to it. I can't really comment on the performance yet as the weather here in NY has been ridiculous over the past few days. However I did drive it on Sunday for a bit and the the car just feels very solid all around, like it's actually once piece instead of two. And even when taking turns at normal speeds the whole suspension just seems to be working better. I also just ditched the RFTs for some PSS, so they should compliment each other nicely once the weather gets better!
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04-02-2014, 02:55 PM | #124 |
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sorry for my noobish question. im planning on doing aftermarket prothane bushings with my coilover install:
do these aftermarket prothane bushings completely replace the stockers? they're just easier to install than m3 bushings right? |
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04-02-2014, 07:48 PM | #125 | |
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04-06-2014, 09:09 PM | #126 |
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Installed a set of white line subframe bushings today using a heat gun, and a the largest socket (not deepwell) in my Craftsman set. That's all it takes to push these out.
Worked great. Took about 3 min of heat per bushing, and they slid right out. I had one that wasn't coming and a moved the jack to a better spot and it came right out. Thanks for the pics and steps earlier in this thread Steve! |
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04-16-2014, 11:38 AM | #127 |
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Quick question. Are you guys loosening one side at a time? for example, on the drivers side, you remove the wheel, strut, spring, front and rear subframe bushing bolts, and that will be give enough room to slide a socket in to push the bushing out? Or would you have to remove the passenger side subframe bushing bolts as well to do the drivers side?
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04-16-2014, 12:14 PM | #128 | |
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you'll see when you get in there. there is limited movement on the drivers side due to the brake lines, and lot of room on the passenger side. I did the drivers side first, all slow and careful, then the passenger side was done quick. This mod is worth the work! I love the handling now. |
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04-16-2014, 03:04 PM | #129 |
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Ok, that makes sense. So the jack is always on the diff, and the second jack is used to push out the bushing, and you adjust the height of the jack on the diff as you adjust the height of the jack used to push out the bushing so everything stays somewhat level. Does that sound right?
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04-16-2014, 07:09 PM | #130 | |
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With the car on jack stands using the rear jack points. I lowered the entire subframe (a few inches onto the jack supporting the diff (call this jack one). Figure which one you are going to start with and get the socket between the bushing and the frame mount. I then used jack two to lift up on the subframe right next to the bushing (for this I used a 16" long 4x4 I had laying around and a 36mm socket) I used the 36mm socket as it was a decent size to push against the subframe beside the bushing. Lift jack two until the car is 1/4"-1/2" off the jack point on the side you are working. Heat (this took me 2-2.5 min with my heat gun on high, you'll start smelling rubber). Raise the jack as need while the bushing slides out. Once the bushing is 2/3 out you can wack it with a rubber mallet and they come right out. |
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06-12-2014, 04:06 PM | #132 |
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Does anyone know if Whiteline changed their bushing's material or color? I ordered what I thought was the right part, KDT917, but the ones I got are black instead of the pictured yellow. Has anyone else had this happen, I wonder if I got the wrong ones and need to send them back. Their is a sticker on the bag that does list KDT917 which is what Whiteline list on their site for the e82 and had been referenced earlier in this thread.
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