What did you do to/for your 1er today?

[ml26]

Gathered parts for the rebuild of the 128’s rear end over the winter.

M3 subframe
M3 rear arms
Metal subframe bushings
All new control arm bushings on the subframe as well that aren’t attached to the arms.
Diff bushings
3.73 open diff from an auto 128
Quaife LSD

For those of you looking to put an LSD in your car, and not a clutch type LSD, I picked up mine from Matt Lewis Racing in the UK. Original price was $1074, which is much less than what places in the states are charging. I think the going rate is around $1400-$1500 for just the quaife LSD from places in the states. And if it’s your first order, you can sign up for 10% off! So subtotal was $966!

Thought I’d have to wait a bit for it to arrive because of overseas shipping and customs, but it arrived in a week!

Bought the 3.73 pumpkin from a fellow 1addict for a couple hundred bucks in great condition. My brother in law was the diff maker for VAC motorsports for 15 years and he’s going to put it all together for me.

I am beyond excited. Cannot wait to get rid of the disconnected, borderline dangerous, rubber band rear end on this car from the trash subframe bushings. The 3.73 final drive and the lsd are the icing and cherry on top. Pics to come when I finally find time to start putting it all together.

[1and1]

Big ol' stack of smiles right there!
Kinda jealous!

[K9Leader]

Originally Posted by K9Leader

A few days ago, I started getting dash lights and codes relating to the crank position sensor, along with longer cranking before it would start. I replaced the crank position sensor today - went with the "official/recommended" method of removing the intake manifold. Unfortunately, it did not make a difference as still getting the lights/code/long crank. So, either I messed up something in the install or the problem is something other than the actual sensor. Whichever it is, I'm going to have to take it to my independent Euro shop. So . . . feeling defeated.

Update on the crank position sensor on my 2011 128, Little Red:
It is finally fixed. Took me three removals of the intake manifold but I eventually did it right. The first time I broke off the bolt that holds the sensor in and tried to half-a$$ the repair (drilled it out and tried to just use a larger bolt). But it was not sturdy enough to hold the sensor in solidly as each time I tore back into it the sensor was not properly seated. Third time I used an EZ-Lok kit to install a properly threaded insert and that did the trick. The drilling out of the bolt hole did require me to acquire a right-angle drill as nothing else I had would fit into the tight confines. Over the years there have been many times a right-angle drill would have been convenient but I always got by with other drills or right angle adapters. This time, though, there was no getting around it - I needed that right-angle drill (that's the story I told my wife and I'm stickin' to it).

I also did the OFHG while I had the manifold off and learned that you need to use a new O-ring on the Mickey Mouse flange every time you disconnect/reconnect it.

I now have an extra crank position sensor and extra Mickey Mouse flange O-rings on hand, if Little Red or my 2010 E91 needs them.

[MParallel]

I will go all M3 parts somewhere in the future for sure.

If I ever go LSD route, it will always be a clutchpak one and not one of those types that can still turn into open, like a TorSen diff.

Even my 29 year old E36 328i has a proper (original) clutch pack LSD.

[Fishee]

Originally Posted by MParallel

I will go all M3 parts somewhere in the future for sure.

If I ever go LSD route, it will always be a clutchpak one and not one of those types that can still turn into open, like a TorSen diff.

Even my 29 year old E36 328i has a proper (original) clutch pack LSD.

A bummer that BMW decided to not offer an optional lsd on M Sport equipped cars.

[mlusso]

Sad night but will return to roads hopefully soon.

[parameter416]

Originally Posted by mlusso

Sad night but will return to roads hopefully soon.

Damn! Sorry, I feel your pain.

My e82 has been rear-ended twice in less than two years. The first time (hit while parked, by a hit-and-run impaired driver) it was about five months before I got it back on the road.

The second time (less than a year later, in heavy stop-and-go traffic) it was a little over two months. So I'm on my third rear bumper!

But I'm back now good as new, and hopefully soon you will be too.

[tracer bullet]

Originally Posted by mlusso

Sad night but will return to roads hopefully soon.

I appreciated, but in a sympathetic way!

[Houranimd49]

Originally Posted by parameter416

Damn! Sorry, I feel your pain.

My e82 has been rear-ended twice in less than two years. The first time (hit while parked, by a hit-and-run impaired driver) it was about five months before I got it back on the road.

The second time (less than a year later, in heavy stop-and-go traffic) it was a little over two months. So I'm on my third rear bumper!

But I'm back now good as new, and hopefully soon you will be too.

Gorgeous car. Are those rear fog lights on? Was that standard in your car or did you throw the switch in yourself?

[parameter416]

Originally Posted by Houranimd49

Gorgeous car. Are those rear fog lights on? Was that standard in your car or did you throw the switch in yourself?

Thanks! I ordered a headlight switch which included a button for the rear fog lights, from a supplier in Europe. You can enable them even without the Euro switch- there’s a DIY on here to do that. Those are also “Blacklines” taillights.

[Houranimd49]

Originally Posted by parameter416

Thanks! I ordered a headlight switch which included a button for the rear fog lights, from a supplier in Europe. You can enable them even without the Euro switch- there’s a DIY on here to do that. Those are also “Blacklines” taillights.

I’ve been searching high and low for a headlight switch that has only the rear fogs without the manual headlight level swivel. Turns out it’s hard to find. Could you share where you ordered yours?

[parameter416]

Originally Posted by Houranimd49

I’ve been searching high and low for a headlight switch that has only the rear fogs without the manual headlight level swivel. Turns out it’s hard to find. Could you share where you ordered yours?

Here's the DIY: https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...light=rear+fog

I don't believe the part numbers I have are valid for a 135i. I have a 128i, which has front fog lights. So this switch has buttons for both front and rear fog lights. I don't know the part number for a 135i.

Part number for 128i: 61319169404

I bought the switch from Schmiedmann in Denmark. I've ordered a lot from them over the years - very reliable, generally good prices.

The price has gone up a lot since I bought a new one for about 40 Euros in 2019; now the price for a used part is over 68 Euros plus shipping.

I see ECS also carries it (new part, OEM). Wow, the prices have gone up!
Link: for 128i https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/61319169404/

Link: for 128i https://www.schmiedmann.com/en/produ...t=B61319169404

UPDATE: here’s the part number for the 135i: 61316932797.
Link: for 135i https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...316932797~oee/

Link: for 135i https://www.schmiedmann.com/en/produ...1-31-6-932-797

[ml26]

Originally Posted by MParallel

I will go all M3 parts somewhere in the future for sure.

If I ever go LSD route, it will always be a clutchpak one and not one of those types that can still turn into open, like a TorSen diff.

Even my 29 year old E36 328i has a proper (original) clutch pack LSD.

I hear you. Would rather have a clutch based LSD, but money and for my typical usage, the quaife will do just fine for me. And much less maintenance.

I’m not a track rat. As much as I’d like to be, it’s just not in the cards. Even though I do live 20 minutes to Lime Rock. But the roads in this area I predominantly drive on with this car are all 2-way curvy, gorgeous roads. That’s all there is around here. Sucks, I know.

Because of that, and the occasional track day (hit the autocross track more often), I didn’t feel the need to triple the cost for a super high performance LSD that I won’t be taking full advantage of. I’ll be $1300 out the door for the setup I’m doing, and that includes the 3.73 pumpkin. Once the LSD is in the pumpkin, I’m swapping the subframe, arms and diff into the car myself. Brother in law is installing the quaife into the 3.73 for me because that’s well beyond my capabilities. A proper clutch based LSD would be a more than third of what I paid for this car.

I’ve put money refreshing all of the suspension and bushings on this car because the components were shot when I purchased it. The rear m3 subframe I got for cheap, so figured “while I’m in there” might as well do the rear diff.

[MParallel]

Valid point for sure.

I'm no trackrat either, although since 2008, I annually visit the absolute brilliant Nürburgring Nordschleife, which is a 3,5hour drive for me.

But before anything else, lets get my car road legal after this painful wait for winter to be over. Time to get a license plate/registration and start driving the hell out of it.

Very curious how this "E-dif" will feel in real life.

Then an MHD and XHP license will be my first money pits.

[ml26]

Oh man! The Nürburgring!!! So jealous.

Our winter finally cleared up over here, so I was excited as well to get the car back on the road.

These are fantastic cars stock. They just need a little help in some areas more than others.

Let us know how yours does on that famous track! With how bumpy I’ve heard that track is, I can understand why you’d want to go for a clutch LSD. 😆

[MParallel]

Yeah that place is something else. Specially when you get there the first time.
Although in the last 15 years, the track had some changes that make it less extreme at certain points than in the past.

My trip this year is already booked. I always go first half of september. Can't wait to drive it there with the top down.

My car already has an MHD stage 1 tune and alu charge/boostpipe, 200cell downpipe, modified stock muffler (to basically make it a BMWP exhaust) and Wagner Evo2 intercooler.
So I could run a Stage2, hence why I want the MHD license to I can play with the different maps etc.

[Houranimd49]

Originally Posted by parameter416

Here's the DIY: https://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=209558&highlight=rear+fog

I don't believe the part numbers I have are valid for a 135i. I have a 128i, which has front fog lights. So this switch has buttons for both front and rear fog lights. I don't know the part number for a 135i.

Part number for 128i: 61319169404

I bought the switch from Schmiedmann in Denmark. I've ordered a lot from them over the years - very reliable, generally good prices.

The price has gone up a lot since I bought a new one for about 40 Euros in 2019; now the price for a used part is over 68 Euros plus shipping.

I see ECS also carries it (new part, OEM). Wow, the prices have gone up!
Link: for 128i https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-european-bmw-parts/european-headlight-switch-chrome/61319169404/

Link: for 128i https://www.schmiedmann.com/en/product/1949689-used?product=B61319169404

UPDATE: here’s the part number for the 135i: 61316932797.
Link: for 135i https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-european-bmw-parts/headlight-switch/61316932797~oee/

Link: for 135i https://www.schmiedmann.com/en/product/e227412-new?product=61-31-6-932-797

Thank you for this!!! Much appreciated.

[MParallel]

All the switches have the buttons, not the labels, but if you remove a couple of tabs, you have working switches.
Google on the subject and you'll find it.

[parameter416]

Originally Posted by MParallel

All the switches have the buttons, not the labels, but if you remove a couple of tabs, you have working switches.
Google on the subject and you'll find it.

Yes, every variation of the switch has the buttons, but the unused/unlabelled ones are locked in place by plastic tabs on the backside. Some people remove the switch and snap off the tabs (the DIY is called something like the "Lego" fix, because the tabs look like the nibs on pieces of Lego). If you don't care about the button label, this will give you functioning rear fog lights.

[Fishee]

Originally Posted by MParallel

All the switches have the buttons, not the labels, but if you remove a couple of tabs, you have working switches.
Google on the subject and you'll find it.

Yep, if you don't care about the label, you can do the "lego mod" to your OE switch to activate the rear fog function.

A couple of years ago, I found an LCI (aluminum style) Euro switch with the rear fog only button.

Note, these are universal across the E8X/E9X platforms, and irrespective of LHD or RHD.

I found mine in the UK and had it shipped for about $50 all in.

This is the one you want:

https://www.schmiedmann.com/en/produ...t=B61319169400

[jdt10768]

I think it's called the Lego mod because some of the earlier cars' (disabled) fog-light switches were missing the internal piece that activates the actual fog light button. People substituted a lego block for this piece, instead of buying from BMW for $$. And . . . free fog light mod!
I just removed my switch, and cut the tabs, done. The lego piece was already present in my later model car. I use it every day to try to keep people off my a$$ on highway

[MParallel]

I'm from Euroland so already have the switch.

At first surprised to see L+R foglight on as we only have L side fog, so it can't be mistaken with a car that is breaking.

But since the fogs double up as Break Force Display lights, hence the L+R for us too.