Shaking/Vibration Under Acceleration, Need Help

[WgSo]

Experiencing shaking/vibration that only last for a short period of time, about a second, when I accelerate under specific scenario. The vibration and shaking is akin to driving over the grated floors on the shoulder the highway, the entire car shakes. There's absolutely no code being thrown either. Nothing happens if I'm coasting, accelerate hard/fast, in sports mode, or WOT, only happens with gradual acceleration. It occurs mostly between 20-60MPH and 1600-2300RPM, within a 200-300RPM range depending on speed.

This has been happening since I had my AA headers installed.... Not sure if there's any correlation there though. Doubt it's a misfire because of no code and I popped my coil and plugs out. No oil and they're clean. Both coils and plugs were replaced about 6K miles ago. No air leaks either, according to my tech..... Doesn't feel like the car loses power when it vibrate or shake either, as RPM continues to climb and the car does not slow down or stall. It even shook my intake boot off.

My car is a N52 128i Automatic, and here's the mod list:

• StageFP Tune
• Active Autowerke Headers
• 3 Stage Intake Manifold
• MILVS
• Rev Motoring Intake Boot

Going to try replacing engine and transmission mount this weekend and if I have time, transmission fluid as well. These are some of the quick fixes I can find scouring the internet. Though, other people's symptoms are similar, but not the same as mine. Finger crossed on it working.

Honestly, been pulling my hair out trying to figure out what the issue is, especially with the lack of code. In the case the above does not resolve my issue, any other suggestions?

P.S. Gonna be cross-posting this to garner more attention, hope no one mind.

[08SlowE82]

Check your drive axels and the drive shaft.

[WgSo]

Originally Posted by 08SlowE82

Check your drive axels and the drive shaft.

Thanks for the heads-up! What should I be looking for when checking? If there is something wrong there, what are the symptoms? I know that the Giubo could be a potential failure due to it being plastic.

[08SlowE82]

Drive shaft: Check flex disc, u joints , center bearing and center bearing carrier

Cv axel : check the boots see if they are torn, leaking "make noises when turning? Clicking or knocking sound"

All these things can be referenced on the inter webs/ YouTube. Hope this helps

[///Makis]

Originally Posted by WgSo

Experiencing shaking/vibration that only last for a short period of time, about a second, when I accelerate under specific scenario. The vibration and shaking is akin to driving over the grated floors on the shoulder the highway, the entire car shakes. There's absolutely no code being thrown either. Nothing happens if I'm coasting, accelerate hard/fast, in sports mode, or WOT, only happens with gradual acceleration. It occurs mostly between 20-60MPH and 1600-2300RPM, within a 200-300RPM range depending on speed.

This has been happening since I had my AA headers installed.... Not sure if there's any correlation there though. Doubt it's a misfire because of no code and I popped my coil and plugs out. No oil and they're clean. Was replaced about 6K miles ago. No air leaks either, according to my tech..... Doesn't feel like the car loses power when it vibrate or shake either, as RPM continues to climb and the car does not slow down or stall.

My car is a N52 128i Automatic, and here's the mod list:

• StageFP Tune
• Active Autowerke Headers
• 3 Stage Intake Manifold
• MILVS
• Rev Motoring Intake Boot

Going to try replacing engine and transmission mount this weekend and if I have time, transmission fluid as well. These are some of the quick fixes I can find scouring the internet. Though, other people's symptoms are similar, but not the same as mine. Finger crossed on it working.

Honestly, been pulling my hair out trying to figure out what the issue is, especially with the lack of code. In the case the above does not resolve my issue, any other suggestions?

P.S. Gonna be cross-posting this to garner more attention, hope no one mind.

I had a similar problem with one of my coils. It didn't fail completely it was sort of gradual and didn't throw a code for a long time. But it was similar to yours at partial throttle when accelerating I would get some pretty strong shakes like a misfire but no codes until one cold day getting on the highway it happened and I decided to accelerate harder and it ended up throwing a ces.

Did you change coils also 6k miles ago or just plugs?

Have you changed or cleaned your vanos solenoids recently? Or the vanos filters?

Honestly it sounds like a coil that's on its way out like mine.

When you checked the coils did you see if there's any cuts or tears along the sides of the coils? I noticed on two of my coils that failed there was a small tear along the sides. I don't know if it was related or can cause an issue but my reasoning was maybe the coil wasn't holding a charge because the metal inside was touching or near the metal of the spark plug tube. I have no evidence or info to support that, it's just what I assumed happened because both failed ones had something similar.

[WgSo]

Originally Posted by 08SlowE82

Drive shaft: Check flex disc, u joints , center bearing and center bearing carrier

Cv axel : check the boots see if they are torn, leaking "make noises when turning? Clicking or knocking sound"

All these things can be referenced on the inter webs/ YouTube. Hope this helps

Thanks for the explanation! Will you go a bit more into what to look for in the driveshaft? I did watch a few videos on YouTube, maybe I'm not watching the right one, but they don't go into much detail aside from "some play"... Being that it's a 2 piece shaft with a universal joint, some degree of play will definitely be there. At what threshold would it a problem? Especially the center bearing, should there be any play?

Originally Posted by ///Makis

I had a similar problem with one of my coils. It didn't fail completely it was sort of gradual and didn't throw a code for a long time. But it was similar to yours at partial throttle when accelerating I would get some pretty strong shakes like a misfire but no codes until one cold day getting on the highway it happened and I decided to accelerate harder and it ended up throwing a ces.

Did you change coils also 6k miles ago or just plugs?

Have you changed or cleaned your vanos solenoids recently? Or the vanos filters?

Honestly it sounds like a coil that's on its way out like mine.

When you checked the coils did you see if there's any cuts or tears along the sides of the coils? I noticed on two of my coils that failed there was a small tear along the sides. I don't know if it was related or can cause an issue but my reasoning was maybe the coil wasn't holding a charge because the metal inside was touching or near the metal of the spark plug tube. I have no evidence or info to support that, it's just what I assumed happened because both failed ones had something similar.

Both my coils and plug were replaced around 6K miles ago. There's no crack on the coil, still looks new. The plugs does not look like there's any wear at all.

I did get a misfire one time in cylinder 3 with code, but when I swapped the coil to cylinder 2, there was no more issue since. I just chalked it up to not reinstalling it properly when I did my valve cover gasket and MILVS because when I swap to cylinder 2, I took great car in getting all the air out and seating it by twisting it as much as I can. Guess I can try to swap it back to cylinder 3 and see what happens. If that throws a code, I can replace that coil or plug....

Nope, did not touch the vanos solenoid or filter. Getting mixed information on the solenoid being cleanable or a straight up replacement part. Didn't want to risk having to replace it by taking it out and messing with it. As my car is only 14K mile, didn't think it warrants it.

[Dru128m]

I'd look at the coils for sure. Try to keep it sputtering til it throws a code, that's how I found mine a while back. Got to the point I could make it happen on command and the misfire would stay till I restarted the motor.

[WgSo]

Originally Posted by Dru128m

I'd look at the coils for sure. Try to keep it sputtering til it throws a code, that's how I found mine a while back. Got to the point I could make it happen on command and the misfire would stay till I restarted the motor.

That's very difficult because staying within that 200-300 rpm increment only last a split second. Inside try to make it stay in that state for as long as I can. No code. Kind of scare of doing it too often as it actually cause my intake boot to come off, which caused another issue ....

[08SlowE82]

Originally Posted by WgSo

Thanks for the explanation! Will you go a bit more into what to look for in the driveshaft? I did watch a few videos on YouTube, maybe I'm not watching the right one, but they don't go into much detail aside from "some play"... Being that it's a 2 piece shaft with a universal joint, some degree of play will definitely be there. At what threshold would it a problem? Especially the center bearing, should there be any play?

Both my coils and plug were replaced around 6K miles ago. There's no crack on the coil, still looks new. The plugs does not look like there's any wear at all.

I did get a misfire one time in cylinder 3 with code, but when I swapped the coil to cylinder 2, there was no more issue since. I just chalked it up to not reinstalling it properly when I did my valve cover gasket and MILVS because when I swap to cylinder 2, I took great car in getting all the air out and seating it by twisting it as much as I can. Guess I can try to swap it back to cylinder 3 and see what happens. If that throws a code, I can replace that coil or plug....

Nope, did not touch the vanos solenoid or filter. Getting mixed information on the solenoid being cleanable or a straight up replacement part. Didn't want to risk having to replace it by taking it out and messing with it. As my car is only 14K mile, didn't think it warrants it.

The symptoms of a bad driveshaft or axels correlate with your complaint of "low Speed under acceleration" not saying that is your problem just areas to check. You can pull up any discussion on these items and the symptoms cover all makes/models and brands. Additionally as you mentioned check the trans mounts and engine mounts.hope you get to the bottom of it.

[WgSo]

Originally Posted by 08SlowE82

The symptoms of a bad driveshaft or axels correlate with your complaint of "low Speed under acceleration" not saying that is your problem just areas to check. You can pull up any discussion on these items and the symptoms cover all makes/models and brands. Additionally as you mentioned check the trans mounts and engine mounts.hope you get to the bottom of it.

I'll definitely look into the driveshaft/axle. The thing is, my car doesn't slow down or accelerate slowly, or at least I don't feel it slowing down. The car just shakes for a split second within the 200-300 rpm interval in the range I mentioned. Then it keeps chugging along.

[08SlowE82]

Off topic
With the set up you have milvs, AA header, stage fp tune etc.How much of a noticeable performance difference did it make vs stock? And did you have any idle issues after the tune was first flashed?

[WgSo]

Originally Posted by 08SlowE82

Off topic
With the set up you have milvs, AA header, stage fp tune etc.How much of a noticeable performance difference did it make vs stock? And did you have any idle issues after the tune was first flashed?

I did all those mods at the same time and I can only describe stock with one word, SLOW. No idling issue on my end.

[WgSo]

Does anyone know if it is safe to jack the engine up by the oil pan for replacing engine mounts?

According to these two videos, it's done that way:

[///Makis]

Originally Posted by WgSo

Thanks for the explanation! Will you go a bit more into what to look for in the driveshaft? I did watch a few videos on YouTube, maybe I'm not watching the right one, but they don't go into much detail aside from "some play"... Being that it's a 2 piece shaft with a universal joint, some degree of play will definitely be there. At what threshold would it a problem? Especially the center bearing, should there be any play?

Both my coils and plug were replaced around 6K miles ago. There's no crack on the coil, still looks new. The plugs does not look like there's any wear at all.

I did get a misfire one time in cylinder 3 with code, but when I swapped the coil to cylinder 2, there was no more issue since. I just chalked it up to not reinstalling it properly when I did my valve cover gasket and MILVS because when I swap to cylinder 2, I took great car in getting all the air out and seating it by twisting it as much as I can. Guess I can try to swap it back to cylinder 3 and see what happens. If that throws a code, I can replace that coil or plug....

Nope, did not touch the vanos solenoid or filter. Getting mixed information on the solenoid being cleanable or a straight up replacement part. Didn't want to risk having to replace it by taking it out and messing with it. As my car is only 14K mile, didn't think it warrants it.

There's no harm with taking it out and cleaning it up a bit with brake cleaner or another cleaner of choice, you can use gasoline / petrol or mineral spirits, I dunked mine in a cup of kerosene or naftha, I can't remember which one and stirred it around till I thought it was clean and then cleaned them out with brake cleaner and then more gas to make sure I didn't get any brake cleaner in the engine area. Don't think it would hurt anything but I'd rather err in the side of caution. If you decide to clean them out I'd say be very careful that you pull out the rubber o ring and do not drop it, it's a PITA to find if you do, and you cannot readily find them at the usual auto parts or hardware store.

The vanos filters are difficult to get to, you can find videos on YouTube but they are on the passenger side of the engine in a spot that you cannot see so you need to find them by feeling around.

I don't think those are your problem per se but it's possible they are on their way out and not actuating correctly.

Like someone else said try to keep it sputtering till it throws a code, I realize it's hard to do that but try pushing the gas harder when it's doing that or let off and then hit the gas or some combination to make it throw a code, otherwise we're just throwing darts at a pic of an engine on the wall and hoping whatever it hits is the right answer. The alternative is the expensive route of just changing everything until the problem goes away

[///Makis]

Originally Posted by WgSo

Does anyone know if it is safe to jack the engine up by the oil pan for replacing engine mounts?

According to these two videos, it's done that way:

Personally I don't think it's safe, the pan is fairly thin steel, and I can't imagine the gasket would tolerate that very well.

Desertman had a few pics of how to lifte the engine using the cars tow hook connected to the engine and some kind of chains.

I'd go that route over lifting the engine on the oil pan.

[WgSo]

Just want to report back, almost forgot about it, that my issue was resolved with a transmission fluid change! Do want to mention that it will take a couple of hundred miles of driving after the fluid change for it to go away. You'll noticed that the shuddering/shaking will be a lot less and infrequent right after the fluid change compare to prior. In my case I can no longer replicate it as it happens randomly. It will slowly happen less and less as you rack up mileage to the point where it won't happen anymore. Hopefully this information can help anyone that may be experiencing the exact issue I had.

[carscatscoffee15]

Originally Posted by 08SlowE82

Off topic
With the set up you have milvs, AA header, stage fp tune etc.How much of a noticeable performance difference did it make vs stock? And did you have any idle issues after the tune was first flashed?

Second this highly. It's like giving your 128i a red bull. Car becomes lively. Drives beautifully. I have a similar setup, FBOs, but I had my car dyno tuned at Stage.

[jde82]

I've been having this problem on my automatic 128i for around a year. It's usually between 30-60 mph under light-moderate acceleration where the car starts vibrating, similar to going over rumble strips like the original post said. It also only does it when the car has warmed up fully, takes usually around 5-10 mins. Thought it a center bearing for the driveshaft, but turns out it's the torque converter. The place I take the car to for any major work said they would want to put in a new trans, but they recommended just learning to live with it as it doesn't make much sense to put in a new tranny in for $6k+ considering what it's worth. There are two things I usually do to minimize the vibrating: either put the trans in sport mode when I start to feel it shuddering, or simply drive it everywhere in manual shift mode. Planning on changing the transmission fluid fairly soon and putting in an additive that may help.

[tylerhart_21]

Yeah, I would second this. Check the center driveshaft joint and if it’s fine a full transmission service (clean out and new fluid until clean). This is what it stopped it for me. Plus after the transmission feels a lot better.