135i n55 Car dies after WOT please help

[n55ethan]

Hello first post hopefully I can gain some information that might help me fix my problem. I was driving my car WOT and after I let off the gas the car felt like it was slowing itself down fast when it came to a stop it died and put itself in park I was able to jump start it get it home I replaced the alternator thinking that was it and drove it again and it died and it will not let me jump it now and it has given me a million codes. The car is MHD stage 2+tuned

Codes:
DME active codes -
2A61 - Ignition relay and injectors, supply voltage, fuel injection: Line disconnection.
2DB5 - Valvetronic relay, activation: Short circuit to ground.
2DB6 - Valvetronic relay, activation: Line disconnection.
371A - Valvetronic, supply voltage: Line disconnection.
371B - Relay, ignition and injectors, activation:
Short circuit to ground.
371E - Relay, ignition and injectors, activation:
Line disconnection.
387F - Power management: Standby current violation.
3BD1 - No message (request for torque, DSC, OxOB6), DME receiver, DSC transmitter.
3BD2 - No message (wheel RPM, OxOCE), receiver
DME, transmitter DSC.
3BD5 - No message (DSC status, Ox19E), DME receiver, DSC transmitter
3BD7 - No message (speed, OX1AO), receiver DME, transmitter DSC.
3BED - No message (operation of Tempomat [cruise control], 0x194), DME receiver, SZL transmitter.
CDBO - No message (steering wheel angle, OxC4), receiver DME, transmitter DSC.
- DME shadow (inactive) codes -
2D45 - Valvetronic, adjustment range: Stop not taught in due to ambient conditions.

[n55ethan]

I am going to get the battery tested tomorrow in case that is the problem.

[tracer bullet]

Yep, for this car always start there. Clear the code and see which ones come back. Hopefully very few if any.

Mine never died after WOT but there were a few times that it would sort of hiccup during WOT. I swapped coils and plugs and it was back to normal afterwards. Not sure that means you should do it, but if you see misfire codes then it would be something to consider.

If you do go that route, you don't necessarily need to do all of them if you can pinpoint which is / are giving you trouble. I probably had one giving intermittent issues and didn't actually need to do them all.

[jwolf]

Dead near the end of 1-2-3 WOT pull on my manual would trigger limp mode. It was the fuel pump. Rand great at granny speeds. High fuel loads would not be able to deliver enough and it would throw several codes.

[n55ethan]

Well my battery tested bad so I replaced it and still won’t even crank it does like one crank and stops

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by n55ethan

Well my battery tested bad so I replaced it and still won’t even crank it does like one crank and stops

Time for a new battery I guess. Hopefully that was your issue.

[n55ethan]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

Time for a new battery I guess. Hopefully that was your issue.

Unfortunately I guess there is more then just the battery

[n55ethan]

Update: I have no idea why my battery and alternator failed but my motor ended up having a seized bearing.

[tracer bullet]

Originally Posted by n55ethan

Update: I have no idea why my battery and alternator failed but my motor ended up having a seized bearing.

Oh, hell, that's no good. At least it's fixable but it's not fun.

Be 100% sure that's what it is. Normally it wouldn't die at WOT, or like you said be related to the electrical system. You would however hear rod knock almost guaranteed, and have a lot of fine metal in the oil when you drain it.

You may of course be right about the bearing, but just to be sure, who did the diagnosis and what did they do and find?

[n55ethan]

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

Oh, hell, that's no good. At least it's fixable but it's not fun.

Be 100% sure that's what it is. Normally it wouldn't die at WOT, or like you said be related to the electrical system. You would however hear rod knock almost guaranteed, and have a lot of fine metal in the oil when you drain it.

You may of course be right about the bearing, but just to be sure, who did the diagnosis and what did they do and find?

I took off my oil filter and drained my oil it’s full of copper flakes lots of flakes I just never heard it knock which is the weird part

[tracer bullet]

Originally Posted by n55ethan

I took off my oil filter and drained my oil it’s full of copper flakes lots of flakes I just never heard it knock which is the weird part

Guess it doesn't have to be noisy, it can spin quietly. But spin it did (sized to the crank, and then spun in the rod itself).

Ouch. My condolences.

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by n55ethan

Update: I have no idea why my battery and alternator failed but my motor ended up having a seized bearing.

Sorry to hear this. I ve heard this is a common issue on the N55 engines.

[n55ethan]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

Sorry to hear this. I ve heard this is a common issue on the N55 engines.

Yeah that’s what everyone’s been telling me recently I appreciate it 🙏🏻

[wheela]

Sorry to hear this, OP. How many miles on the car? Have you been tracking it? Any previous owners?

Usually when this happens, it's from oil starvation. Either oil system not primed properly after work (like after oil filter housing gasket replacement) or oil pump getting starved of oil on long high G cornering, where oil in the pan sloshes away from the pickup tube.

[tracer bullet]

Originally Posted by wheela

Usually when this happens, it's from oil starvation. Either oil system not primed properly after work (like after oil filter housing gasket replacement) or oil pump getting starved of oil on long high G cornering, where oil in the pan sloshes away from the pickup tube.

100% This. It's not a "common issue".