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04-20-2014, 05:43 PM | #1 |
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135 stalled on the highway. She cranks, but won't star up.
Anyone have experience with the following codes?
3100 is limp mode 2a9a is crankshaft - inlet camshaft, correlation 2a9a is crankshaft - outlet camshaft, correlation Was running fine and all of a sudden she just shut off and has not wanted to start since. I took off the cam sensors as well as vanos solenoids and cleaned them to make sure nothing was gunked up, but nothing. Any info would be appreciated. |
04-21-2014, 05:12 PM | #2 |
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04-21-2014, 06:03 PM | #4 |
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Vanos failure? Time to take it to a dealer.
Vanos recall... http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=970569
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04-21-2014, 07:35 PM | #5 |
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Thanks for the replies folks. Some details: The car is a 2010 with 33k miles. The recall I believe applies to cars with a manufacture date of 2010, mine is march 17, 2009.
Took the car to the dealer, tech said that it's not sensor related. He said my intake cam isn't spinning, and alluded to the fact that it could be the cam/vanos gear unit. They want 1200 to take the valve cover off and verify though. So at this point I'm sort of out of options. I considered purchasing a new unit and replacing myself, but I imagine setting the timing is a science in it of itself, so yeah. |
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04-22-2014, 08:55 AM | #6 |
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Going in to pick up the car today. Will bring up the recall to the SA and see what they say. I'll ask to submit a good will exception to bmw NA on account of my low miles and warranty having expired just a couple of months ago. Wish me luck!!
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04-22-2014, 09:48 AM | #7 |
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They want $1.2K to pull the valve cover? Literally, just to see the head? Unreal…
Best of luck resolving this OP. 90% of the time when/if the car just outright dies on you, it’s a pump of some sort, usually on the fuel side. I don’t think I’ve ever heard of an N54 truly breaking down due to a VANOS issue outside of a one-off scenario. If you had a 55 with the hollow VANOS retainer bolts, then I could see it. Hm.
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04-22-2014, 10:07 AM | #8 |
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I searched and searched and also did not find any prior case of an n54 breaking down like that. The tech seemed so sure that it was nothing sensor related though. I could only wish that the issue was pump related, however they mentioned nothing about it. The car also did not throw any codes indicating so.
I was frustrated at the fact that they didn't exactly tell me: hey this is what's wrong with it and it's going to take $1200 + parts etc. Rather, it's just for them to have a look to then tell me what the problem is. I'm about as more informed as when I started, since the sensor codes where telling me that. The techs reasoning was that upon removing the oil cap, he could not see the cam move at all and hence why he suspects that the vanos/hear unit must be inspected. I'll be taking the car home for now. I'm half tempted to remove the cover myself... But then I'm not sure what exactly it is that I am looking for either... I can just as easily swap out the gear, but as I mentioned, I have no idea how that unit works in terms of setting the timing since it seems to work similar to a fan clutch of sorts |
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04-22-2014, 12:14 PM | #9 | |
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04-22-2014, 12:19 PM | #10 | |
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I’m trying to imagine what would cause the intake side cam to simply stop rotating…and the only things that come up are extremely un-good. So I’m really not sure on this one. I seriously, seriously doubt OP has suffered damage to any part of the rotating assembly or VANOS unit. But who knows.
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04-23-2014, 09:13 AM | #11 |
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Your questions are the same I am asking myself. As of now, here is the plan of action. I'll be removing the valve cover myself and have a look. I was able to get the tech to consider doing the job on the side, so once everything is off, he will come and take a look and be able to accurately tell me what the issue is.
As you can imagine, I sincerely hope that vanos/gear unit is the only thing that went wrong. If that is the case, I'll order whatever parts the tech requires, and he will borrow the necessary special tools to set the timing. Not much of an update I suppose since I still have no clue as to what is truly going on, but at least it's something to get the ball rolling. Needless to say, it's my most cost effective option, please continue to have your fingers crossed for me! |
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04-23-2014, 09:25 AM | #12 |
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If the two cam sensors are out of phase, it means the chain has probably jumped a couple teeth on the sprockets. What oil change interval do you follow, and what oil? Low oil level will cause premature wear on the chain, and the tensioner can only go so far. Although, at only 33k it does not sound right. Thinking more like all the bolts on the Vanos have snapped off.
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04-23-2014, 09:29 AM | #13 |
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I picked up the car at 19k, and have had two oil changes since. The first under warranty at 22k and the second, on my own, using the bmw synthetic purchased at the dealership about 4k ago, so she was coming up on the next change. I did check the oil level on Friday as it were and the oil levels marked as full...
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04-25-2014, 02:14 PM | #14 |
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Update. Removed the valve cover myself, took literally 42 minutes. This was dicking around and looking around for the necessary tools. BMW quotes 8.9 hours btw.
Had the bmw tech come to my house and take a look... turns out the VANOS units were fine, as we had all speculated. From there things take a slightly darker turn... He removed the VANOS and fan shroud so that he could access the center crank bolt, and wouldn't you know it, the gosh damn thing spins "freely." We then put the car in first gear, to see if it would lock things up, and nada.... We took out Plug#1 to see if the cylinder would move as we manually 'spun' the crank bolt, but naturally it did not. I'm sure you can imagine my level of frustration at this point. My plan of action? No idea honestly. When i get home this afternoon i will proceed to hooking up the battery and attempt to crank the car so that the starter will move the flywheel, keeping an eye out on cylinder #1 to see if it moves. My logic is that if it moves, then the crankshaft is at least in 1 piece and the issue is not on the flywheel side of things. This would shift my focus to the crank shaft bolt... seeing as spins freely, my logic is that it could have snapped, thereby not allowing the timing components to rotate as they should... the issue i would see would be 'how' to remove said snapped bolt. I figure i could try to tap it out, but I am sure that is an odyssey in it of itself... Any thoughts, opinions? Stay tuned for the next horrific episode! PS Sorry for the long post and or if what i just wrote makes no sense... not exactly thinking straight. |
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04-25-2014, 03:16 PM | #15 |
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Wow that sounds awful man, sorry to hear this.
I'd be very surprised if you damaged the crankshaft. It's extremely robust in this motor. But at this point, who knows. How did the cyl 1 plug look?
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04-25-2014, 03:23 PM | #16 |
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The plug looked perfect... didn't point out to any specific issue. I am also counting on the crankshaft's toughness and praying at this point that it snapped in some way the crank bolt... heck, while tapping/drilling it out may be a PITA, it would be fantastic if that is all it was... imagine, an 8$ fix
I will update after attempting to rotate the crank later this afternoon! |
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04-25-2014, 07:30 PM | #17 |
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So, good news...maybe. Went home, removed all the spark plugs, and pushed the car forward. Each piston moved up and down, just as it should, no noises or anything. This further support my hypothesis that the crank bolt snapped. I will be removing the pulley bolts tomorrow (soon as i find out how to) to get it out the way so i can figure out how the hell im going to pull/tap that darn bolt.
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04-25-2014, 07:43 PM | #19 | |
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Man what a THREAD!! Sorry to read about your mess. I do remember one or two posts about the front crank pulley being damaged on some 135i's. I think what happens is that some guys launch the car so hard in first gear that get some axle hop and the engine moves so much that when you shift the front crank pulley actually HITS the front subframe. This in turn damages the plly ribbed belt and or the front pulley. That pulley isn't cheap either. I think its like a $700 pulley. ? I think you should read these two threads... http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=524591 http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=565322
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04-26-2014, 03:07 PM | #21 |
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Crank pulley bolt?
Hey at least the belt didn't snap and get sucked through the main seal. What a crazy problem!
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