08-28-2011, 10:41 AM | #1 |
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Wheel Stud Length
I found this source for wheel studs and nuts from Dan Parker and forgot to ask about the ideal length for the 1M.
http://store.bimmerworld.com/race-bu...stud-p627.aspx I'm guessing that the longer 92 mm length is more versatile (especially if I get a different set of rims) than the 82 mm, but has anyone installed these? If so, which size do you suggest? Thanks. |
08-28-2011, 10:57 AM | #2 |
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i went with their 82mm studs...as i didnt think i'd run diff wheels that would require huge spacers (>15mm). I went with the ARC 18x10 track setup, so at most i'll need a 5mm spacer up front.
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08-28-2011, 11:34 AM | #6 |
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Isn't that reason enough? It really does make things easier if you change back and forth between street wheels and track or autox wheels. Especially if you are sitting on hot asphalt in the middle of the summer. Also, just for routine maintenance purposes (e.g., removing wheels to inspect rotor or brake pad wear), it is handy. If you don't ever do these things and rely on the service center, it probably would not make sense to convert to the studs.
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08-28-2011, 11:48 AM | #8 |
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After my first wheel change (summer <-> winter) have always wondered why OEM wheels come with bolts rather than with studs and nuts. It's a bitch to center any wheel and getting that first bolt in.
Why wouldn't cars (especially M cars) come with factory studs? |
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08-28-2011, 04:00 PM | #9 |
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i would go for the 82 if you plan on tracking the car with spacer larger than 12mm. if your daily driving you can get away with 75 mm studs and still run 12mm spacer.
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08-28-2011, 06:27 PM | #12 |
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You can buy a tool, essentially one very long stud that you can use when changing wheels. You put it in one of the stud locations in the rotor and then you can hang the wheel on it and put in the other wheel studs. Works great.
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08-28-2011, 07:24 PM | #13 |
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I had that with my 97 e36 M3 and it still was a pain to change the wheels. With the studs you just put it on; push it against the hub ; hand start the bolts and go for it with your portable impact wrench. My Dewalt tightens it just below the torque setting. I am a 5'4" female and I used to just struggle with the bolts. Even with the single tool it was hard to hold the wheel on the hub while I fiddled with the bolt.
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08-28-2011, 07:37 PM | #14 |
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I ordered a set of the 82mm studs this evening from Bimmerworld. I should get them in time to install next weekend. Now, I just need a reason to change my wheels!
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08-28-2011, 08:50 PM | #15 | |
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08-29-2011, 02:59 PM | #16 |
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09-01-2011, 05:42 PM | #17 |
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Quick service from Bimmerworld. My studs arrived today and now I have a couple questions. These have a yellow substance on the hub end of the threads--I'm assuming it is a sort of dry locktite and that no other substance is needed to secure them.
I've looked through my various owner's manuals and quick reference guide and can't find the wheel torque specs. Anyone know what is required for these wheels? |
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09-01-2011, 06:06 PM | #18 |
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yes no need for other substance. The yellow loctite will activate once there's heat.
I assume you got the bulletnose? if so, you will have to double nut to install the studs. I've read about 18ft/lbs. I basically double nut and tighten till the nuts turn. With wheels on the car, i torque them to 80ft/lbs. |
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09-01-2011, 06:16 PM | #19 | |
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Quote:
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12-15-2011, 01:13 AM | #21 |
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I have two identical sets of stock ZHP 19" wheels for my 1M. I have been considering studs but have no plan to run spacers etc. Can someone tell me the right size stud so I can use capped nuts and not have the stud sticking out?
Thank you. |
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12-15-2011, 12:27 PM | #22 |
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This seems ill-advised to try to use capped nuts on the studs. Even if you measured and compared to the length of the stock wheel bolts to determine the ideal length for the studs, using a capped nut would make it difficult to torque your wheels securely. I wouldn't want to be your insurance agent!
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