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07-02-2012, 02:21 PM | #23 |
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07-02-2012, 02:59 PM | #24 |
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So... has anyone tried pulling the fuse for the OBD-II port? I think in that other thread it was fuse #74 if I am not mistaken. ???
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07-02-2012, 03:41 PM | #26 | |
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Doesn't say which fuse he pulled not even a 1 series, yet I doubt the E9X and 1 series differ greatly when it comes to electrical architecture. |
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07-02-2012, 04:24 PM | #27 |
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More power to you...I'm also looking at options.
It would d be nice if some of the tuners would build in a fuel cutoff mode...back when I owned a Ford Mustang GT, I put a microswitch in the fuel pump power line and hid the switch in the cab....car would start, move a foot or two and shutdown. great piece of mind for this "OBD car-jacking"...why can't BMW present a solution if over 300 cars were stolen in one single UK county...that's ridiculous that they play ostrich in the sand....
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07-02-2012, 05:24 PM | #28 |
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Guys there is probably only one ground and ONE power wire in the OBD-II socket. It can't be that hard to wire in a switch.
When I asked at my dealer the other day... they did not know IF pulling a fuse would work or not (some said #74 in the fuse box behind the glove box). But they did say it would be easy to wire in a switch! Didn't I read somewhere about port #7 on the OBD-II is 12v power (continuous). I know IF I had a 1M I would be probing the OBD-II port with my VOM. I will look at this with my 135i. I am not even sure IF removing the power source from the OBD-II port would be enough to stop one of these key fob reprograming boxes. Some OBD tools have their own power supply. I know one of my OBD-II readers has a 9v battery. Dack
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07-02-2012, 08:27 PM | #29 | |
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Quote:
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...&postcount=143 http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...&postcount=153
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07-03-2012, 04:18 AM | #30 |
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Apparently www.garrisonlocks.co.uk will be releasing an OBD port clamp to prevent this form of attack shortly.
I've sent them an email enquiry and will let you know what I hear back. |
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07-03-2012, 07:10 AM | #31 |
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OBD thieves seem to operate without flatbed trucks to save time and money. They drive the car off the drive yard as soon as the false key is operational.
So got to think of mechanical devices to impede or make it more difficult to drive the car (as long as you do not forget to remove these security devices before you drive your car...). Do small wheel locks exist as the ones you often see on motorcycles ? Or are these types of wheel locks simply too weak on cars ? At least it can surprise thieves (and make them dash off) as soon as they notice that they can't push the car off the drive yard. ...there still exists the desperado option too:
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07-03-2012, 10:58 AM | #32 |
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That sucks
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07-03-2012, 01:47 PM | #33 |
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Does the 1M not have motion sensors in the alarm? If i activate my OEM alarm with the windows open, and reach my arm inside, the alarm will automatically fire. If it does, dagger -- i don't have speakers set up at work.
This is insane though... absolutely ridiculous. |
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07-03-2012, 01:49 PM | #34 |
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Normally, I would say "this is what insurance is for." However, in this case, the 1M is such a limited production model that it may be impossible to replace it. Bummer!
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07-03-2012, 02:05 PM | #38 |
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Wow, so much for modern technology. Few weeks back, I was laughing at a parked 328 in NYC with a steering lock thinking these electric key fobs are extremely secure.
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07-03-2012, 02:14 PM | #39 |
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Cut steering wheel and remove club... More advanced club would be better.
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07-03-2012, 02:40 PM | #43 |
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It is a problem for both LHD and RHD bmw's. Both configurations have a blind spot for the alarm system - down the A pillar and to the OBD-II port. And that is even IF your car has a factory alarm!
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07-03-2012, 02:45 PM | #44 |
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