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04-23-2010, 03:01 PM | #45 |
Ex '87 Carrera
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Here's part of the answers to my own questions. Spent more time with the TIS, and as best I can puzzle it out, here's what I think is correct:
1) 165 Nm 2) 64 Nm 3) 84 Nm 4) 64 Nm 5) 58 Nm drop link, 21 Nm brackets ianc |
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03-29-2012, 01:05 PM | #47 |
Colonel
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Just the torque required should be enough.
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Faster, faster, faster, until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death… – Hunter Thompson
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04-04-2012, 11:55 PM | #48 |
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Drives: F80 M3
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Santa Barbara, AP, Brembo, GIAC, Koni, Ohlins, Performance Friction, www.hpautosport.com
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We use loctite anyway for a piece of mind. If you are tracking your car, you really should be thoroughly checking all suspension components once a year and replace anything that could potentially end your day early.
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10-01-2013, 04:01 AM | #50 |
Private First Class
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Hi all,
Any tips on how to remove the tension rod after undoing the bolt? I've undone my bolt without issue but the rod is stuck in there really good. Is it meant to just slide out at that point or is there some trick to it? Thanks! Fed |
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10-15-2013, 08:33 AM | #51 |
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Hi all,
So in my case the tension rods were stuck in the wheel carrier due to rust and corrosion over the years. Because of the shape of the tension rod (namely the protrusion after the rubber), it is very hard to get any leverage on it against the wheel carrier. I tried penetrating oils (3 different ones), a freezer spray, hammering, using as much leverage as I could, and a puller, and none of this worked. What finally sorted it for me was using a torch on the carrier to make it expand a bit and hammering from below. It helps to leave the bolt on to maximise the area you are trying to hit + not ruin the rod if you are planning on keeping it (mine got torched from the burning anyway, but I wasn't planning on keeping it regardless). I spoke to Harold and HPA throughout this (I bought the arms from him) and it seems mine is an extreme case, YMMV. Good luck! |
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