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05-26-2013, 04:44 PM | #67 | |
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OK, then your comment was even more off base. ARC-8s, in a 235, would fit just as well as your BBSs. So, again, please don't say they don't fit the 135 well in 17s, and then say your BBSs are perfect. I don't know why you don't just acknowledge that your original comment was incorrect, and move on. Beating a dead horse here. 17" ARC-8s with 235s are a perfectly fine fit for a 135. As are any other 17x8 or 8.5" ET40 wheel with a 235...including your BBS, and eleventy other wheel brands. Last edited by PrematureApex; 05-26-2013 at 10:02 PM.. |
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05-27-2013, 03:08 AM | #68 | |
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APEX said they will rub in a 235 section. It's certainly possible that they won't(I haven't played with it in person), but the bottom line I got from APEX was that their 17" fitment only existed in a semi state due to moderate compliance with a sizing they already made for another car. My current setup has no hint of rubbing. Yes they are close aspect ratios, but close doesn't mean the same. Also, the BBS wheels won't fit a 135i because of their factory fake big brake kit.
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05-27-2013, 07:52 AM | #69 |
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straight poop on wheels
hello:
i am trying to get the straight poop on wheels. i am looking to outfit my '08 128i sport with either a new set of 17's or 18's. tire size is a 225/255 front/rear. the car is a daily driver, but does see a good bit of hwy driving. its not raced, but i do like to "drive" it! there is some road construction and the occasional pothole (which i do my best to avoid). without spending $500+ per wheel, which manufactures are the one's to consider? which are the one's to avoid? i have seen apex, vmr, and others several times on the board. guidance is appreciated. thanks... |
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05-28-2013, 12:09 AM | #71 | |
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You would be much better served by a 235 square setup with the 128i over the staggered. 17" is better for everything except subjective looks.
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05-28-2013, 07:52 AM | #72 |
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honestly, i would like to keep the staggered set up for appearance sake...i would like to have the wheels a little closer to the fender edges.
i understand i cannot have it all... something has to be sacrificed - quality, cost or weight. so, what is comparable to the stock wheels (not that visually appealing) in quality and weight (or less)? thanks |
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05-28-2013, 12:11 PM | #73 | |
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Staggered my look dope to you, but they are not as functional as a square set-up, at least when we're talking about a/your 128i. You said you're looking for a street wheel (not a race wheel) so anything from a mainstream manufacturer is going to meet your needs. You won't find a lot of sub-20# wheels in your price range that are any good -- so your biggest weight savings will come from changing from RFTs to regular tires. Besides, for the type of driving you do, it's very unlikely you'll notice a difference between a 23# wheel and one that's 17#. Find something you like that fits your budget, make sure it fits your car, too, and go for a drive. EDIT: Just saw this thread about a VMR wheel. Guy was lucky. Now you know why TheSt|g and others make such a big deal about forged wheels. http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=845754 Last edited by exPat; 05-28-2013 at 12:19 PM.. |
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05-28-2013, 02:24 PM | #74 | |
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The other key is never buying from a wheel company that has "forged" in the name. Anytime they feel they have to try to push that, you know it's junk. Swimjim, sounds like the EC7 is your best bet. I'd take your question to APEX directly to preserve this thread. Ask when they are doing their next group buy. And make sure to get their studs too, they are an excellent deal.
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05-31-2013, 01:42 AM | #75 | |
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05-31-2013, 03:46 PM | #76 |
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Good to see this thread resurrected. Stig, ?, why would you worry about every pound, then put the pressure sensors in? Because of some stupid dash light?
After way too much tire research and not wanting to buy another set of wheels, I went with the BFG Rival 225/45-17 on 17x7.5-40, Sport Edition SE16 silver mesh. An amazing 30.8lbs lighter than stock setup. This on stock M sport suspension, which seems very low and rides like shit, but feels great on the track. Balanced up nicely and the sport editions have made it through one Michigan winter / dirt roads well (not sure that qualifies as functional/strong). Oh, as discussed much here, tire rubbing. NONE with this setup. never. My impression of the Rival is it's ok. No lack of traction on our constantly turning Waterford hills racetrack. No crazy oversteer (on dry track). The are acceptable on the street noise and ride. One thing that made me think they are more of a beginners tire is the almost engineered squealing sound near the limit. They seem very robust though. Drove highway speeds in very heavy rain, and things are twitchy, but you wont end up in a ditch. They track very straight even through big puddles. |
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06-01-2013, 01:11 PM | #77 | ||
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Car modding is always a balance for me.
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12-05-2013, 12:21 PM | #79 |
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Odd necro bump. Was there a further question you had?
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12-05-2013, 02:09 PM | #80 |
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12-05-2013, 02:54 PM | #81 | |
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And being consistent with what you want isn't being hard headed.
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12-06-2013, 09:26 AM | #83 |
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I was looking to focus on forged wheels.
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12-06-2013, 09:38 AM | #84 |
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Why would you do that? Cast wheels can not be functional and strong?
Generally speaking, forged wheels aren't necessarily stronger than cast wheels. Manufacturers build wheels to given strength parameters. Forged wheels can use less material, and still achieve that given strength. Thus, forged wheels are generally noticeably lighter than a cast equivalent, not necessarily stronger. Anyway, not that RPF1s are strong, at all. (Cast & light = probably weak) So we should keep them out of there regardless. |
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12-06-2013, 09:44 AM | #85 | |
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I'm yet to see cast and light not equal weak.
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01-07-2014, 05:03 AM | #86 | |
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02-21-2014, 10:15 AM | #88 |
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Now I'm on the hunt for light and throwaway that can be used in a square setup on the track. Preferably I would want to be able to fit 245 square. OZ kinda has what I want, but I don't know about the rear offsets.
No China allowed.
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