Sealant question

[driveseeker]

Forgive the length of this, but I'm learning about polymer sealants and trying to figure out how best to fit them into my regimen. I just bought a one-year old 3 series (to fit next to my 1er - obligatory 1 series content!) in Mineral Gray, that came from a dealer with ZurichShield on it. I assume this is somewhat similar to Sonax Polymer Net Shield or CG JetSeal 109. Car looks great, and my first thought was why not reapply sealant every few months to reduce or even eliminate polishing/waxing? But then I read that people wax OVER sealant? This seems counter-intuitive, as I thought the sealant offered a protective coating that beaded more and lasted longer than wax?

I'm used to using Klasse AIO and SG on my other cars, and if I go back to these two for the new car, where does sealant best fit in - before, in between the two, or after? Or not at all? Thanks for any ideas.

[Marc08EX]

There's really no need to wax over sealants. Both are LSPs. Sealants are pretty much man made synthetic waxes.

The reason people wax over sealants is because they want the warm look of the wax. Sealants give off a plastic or saran wrap like look while carnauba waxes give off a warm glow. So you put down a coat of sealant to give you the protection you're looking for and wax over it to give you the look carnauba lovers are looking for.

I haven't used Klasse stuff so I can't comment on that.

Good luck.

[cheshirecat79]

Throwing wax over sealaint goes beyond simply looks- carnauba waxes are much thicker (and softer) than polymer sealants. This will afford you a bit more durability and protection than a sealant alone, especially against acid-based paint damage such as bird dropping or insect remains.

The most important thing is to make sure your sealant cures properly before applying a wax, and some waxes bond better than others. Collinite 845 works well in this regard.

Plenty of people run with a sealant only and are happy with it, but others enjoy the added benefit of protection and enhanced depth/warmth of their surface with a layer of wax also applied.

[pj.rodriguez]

+10. ^^

845 is awesome. But make sure to use it properly. There's a long thread on 845 on the autogeek forums.

[Greg@DetailedImage]

Originally Posted by driveseeker

Forgive the length of this, but I'm learning about polymer sealants and trying to figure out how best to fit them into my regimen. I just bought a one-year old 3 series (to fit next to my 1er - obligatory 1 series content!) in Mineral Gray, that came from a dealer with ZurichShield on it. I assume this is somewhat similar to Sonax Polymer Net Shield or CG JetSeal 109. Car looks great, and my first thought was why not reapply sealant every few months to reduce or even eliminate polishing/waxing? But then I read that people wax OVER sealant? This seems counter-intuitive, as I thought the sealant offered a protective coating that beaded more and lasted longer than wax?

I'm used to using Klasse AIO and SG on my other cars, and if I go back to these two for the new car, where does sealant best fit in - before, in between the two, or after? Or not at all? Thanks for any ideas.

Congrats on your purchase driveseeker! The guys above nailed it in terms of waxing over a sealant (it's not pointless per say, but it has minor benefits for the extra time spent doing it), but I wanted to answer your question about Klasse. KSG is a sealant itself, so if you're going back to the AIO and SG (even just SG) for protection there's no need for other sealants. You definitely don't want to use anything (wax or sealant) in between KAIO and KSG as the two were made to work together, KAIO cleaning up the paint chemically and providing a good primer coat for KSG, which provides durable protection.

After KSG cures, as stated above it's up to you to decide whether or not you want to use a carnauba wax on top of it. I would only advise you make sure that no "cleaner wax" is used on top of KSG (or any sealant) as it may deteriorate the sealant durability a bit.

Hope that helps!

Ivan @ DI

[driveseeker]

Thanks very much to all. I think I've been reading too many product descriptions about how magical the new sealants are. Does anyone have experience with how Klasse Sealant Glaze, which has been around for years, stacks up against some of the newer Menzerma, CG and Optimum liquid sealants in terms of beading and longevity?

[Greg@DetailedImage]

Originally Posted by driveseeker

Thanks very much to all. I think I've been reading too many product descriptions about how magical the new sealants are. Does anyone have experience with how Klasse Sealant Glaze, which has been around for years, stacks up against some of the newer Menzerma, CG and Optimum liquid sealants in terms of beading and longevity?

It stacks up very well against pretty much any newer sealant (aside from some of the newer silica based ones that have a better chemical makeup and durability), but the downside to it is that it's a bit harder to apply. Not really harder, rather longer, so it's a turnoff for some that can apply something like Blackfire Wet Diamond or Menzerna quicker. I actually wrote an article on KSG for the DI Ask-a-Pro blog, so if you decide to go that route you can surely check it out for some tips and tricks .

Ivan @ DI

[driveseeker]

Thanks Ivan (and sorry for my long absence). So would you say if you're using Klasse AIO and KSG that adding a 2nd or 3rd coat of KSG is the best way to gain longevity, rather than topping it with one of the new liquid sealant glazes?

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by driveseeker

Thanks Ivan (and sorry for my long absence). So would you say if you're using Klasse AIO and KSG that adding a 2nd or 3rd coat of KSG is the best way to gain longevity, rather than topping it with one of the new liquid sealant glazes?

Layering multiple sealants doesn't really pay off with what you would imagine.

Since we're getting into the chemical compounds, the 1st later of KSG will bond to the paint, making that hard protection.

Now when it comes to round 2, and the second layer...you're forcing this layer to bond to the 1st layer of KSG. The end result is a product that won't bond very well, and lead to IMO a waste of time.

Put that first layer of KSG on and throw wax on top of it. Unlike sealants, you CAN layer wax

[Greg@DetailedImage]

Originally Posted by driveseeker

Thanks Ivan (and sorry for my long absence). So would you say if you're using Klasse AIO and KSG that adding a 2nd or 3rd coat of KSG is the best way to gain longevity, rather than topping it with one of the new liquid sealant glazes?

I have always used 2 coats of KSG to ensure a proper coat and protection. I wouldn't layer any other sealants on top of KSG, but as you can surely throw a wax or glaze on top of KSG after a few days (I'd suggest waiting a week or so) if that's what you prefer. On some colors wax is known to improve the look a bit in terms of depth and gloss, so it may not be a bad thing to consider.

Ivan @ DI

[vanbmw]

My 2cents...I use menzerna power lock sealant on my jet black BMW. Easy to apply, looks good and last at least 6 months. Very happy with the product. The way the water beads after a wash is incredible. I pull out my blower and the water just slips off the car so easily.

I have tried some pure carnuba wax on top. Waited till sealant had fully cured. Did it look better? Maybe but very minor...like 5% better at most. The only think I noticed was the next time I washed my car the water wasn't beading as well. I tried poorboys natty's carnuba wax once and then tried some mother's pure carnuba wax. Both of those waxes are supposed to be free of any "cleaning" agents or polish. Since then I have tried just using the sealant and the water still was beading at 6 month, paint looked good and still felt "slippery".

[cheshirecat79]

From what I've read, it seems that certain waxes pair up better with certain polishes. Also, the sealant typically leaves a smoother finish on a micron level than a carnauba wax, which could explain the beading issue you're speaking of.

IMO, if you're going to wax on top of a sealant, do it primarily for the extra layer of protection against acidic types of contamination. If it ends up giving you a look you dig, that's an added bonus.