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      01-04-2017, 12:51 PM   #309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by velociti View Post
.022 is the minimum for an upgraded turbo and maybe even FBO, but I'm on a stock turbo, downpipe, and intercooler. Think I'm good there.



Not sure how anything on the intake side would have an impact on boost. Intercooler, chargepipe (which I tightened up yesterday - seems good), vacuum hoses (but I'm only at 40k miles...) seem more likely. Still no codes despite putting 50 miles on Stage 0. Will keep driving and see if one pops up but the car is otherwise tip top. Thanks for the ideas, though...
Any leaks can impact boost.
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      01-04-2017, 01:14 PM   #310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by velociti View Post
Trying to troubleshoot a boost issue. Looking for any and all advice. I'm on Stage 0 and my car's unable to hit stock boost targets. WGDC isn't maxed, getting no codes of any kind. Car just seems to fall flat on its face at 4000. New plugs gapped to .026, BMS intake, ETS chargepipe. Checked the charge pipe yesterday and it seems to be solidly hooked up and clamped down. Any other obvious suspects that I can check out?

http://datazap.me/u/velociti/log-148...og=0&data=3-12
http://datazap.me/u/velociti/log-148...og=0&data=3-12
http://datazap.me/u/velociti/log-148...og=0&data=3-12
Those logs look to me like you're not fully disabling DSC (hold the button down for 5 seconds) before you do your logs...

The logs themselves don't look that bad. What I see is the throttle isn't fully open and "accel pedal position" isn't 100% in the upper rpms. Either you accidently lift at the end of your pulls or the DME is making throttle input adjustments via DSC.

Or, you have a slight boost leak? It does take a long time and high WGDC% to hit target boost (6psi lol). WGDC can only go as high as the tables are tuned to allow it to based on load so it's unlikely you'll see 100% WGDC with a stock tune.

Last edited by bNks334; 01-04-2017 at 01:25 PM..
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      01-04-2017, 01:32 PM   #311
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bNks334 View Post
Those logs look to me like you're not fully disabling DSC (hold the button down for 5 seconds) before you do your logs...

The logs themselves don't look that bad. What I see is the throttle isn't fully open and "accel pedal position" isn't 100% in the upper rpms. Either you accidently lift at the end of your pulls or the DME is making throttle input adjustments via DSC.

Or, you have a slight boost leak? It does take a long time and high WGDC% to hit target boost (6psi lol). WGDC can only go as high as the tables are tuned to allow it to based on load so it's unlikely you'll see 100% WGDC with a stock tune.
Yep, DSC was off -- did a long press (it's possible I did a soft disable by accident). It was definitely pouring out when I did the pulls, but figured a partial log would tell me something. I'll try to post a complete one in the dry soon. And I just figured I'd see high or maxed WGDC and low boost if it were a proper boost leak.

As for the 6psi.... Can't wait to get this sorted out and get going with my Wedge tune. Thanks for taking a look...

Last edited by velociti; 01-04-2017 at 01:41 PM..
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      01-04-2017, 02:21 PM   #312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by velociti View Post
Yep, DSC was off -- did a long press (it's possible I did a soft disable by accident). It was definitely pouring out when I did the pulls, but figured a partial log would tell me something. I'll try to post a complete one in the dry soon. And I just figured I'd see high or maxed WGDC and low boost if it were a proper boost leak.

As for the 6psi.... Can't wait to get this sorted out and get going with my Wedge tune. Thanks for taking a look...
6psi, yes, but you're on target in regard to load (except where the "accel pedal position" isn't at 100%)... psi alone tells you nothing by itself.

The amb air pressure of 14.6 combined with what looks like 40-50f weather will help you hit target load with less boost... combine that with your mods and the efficiency gets even better...

Not sure what you're even trying to "sort" at this point. The log doesn't show anything "falling on it's face @ 4k" except you lifting the gas pedal lol stock tune is mean tot capitalize on the low torque/power output of the small stock twin scroll turbo. Stock car isn't tuned to produce big peak whp at high rpms.
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      01-04-2017, 02:26 PM   #313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by velociti View Post
Yep, DSC was off -- did a long press (it's possible I did a soft disable by accident). It was definitely pouring out when I did the pulls, but figured a partial log would tell me something. I'll try to post a complete one in the dry soon. And I just figured I'd see high or maxed WGDC and low boost if it were a proper boost leak.

As for the 6psi.... Can't wait to get this sorted out and get going with my Wedge tune. Thanks for taking a look...
you're not going to see high WGDC on this car because the the stock programming limits how much extra WGDC the car can run to make up the difference. Focus on Load then boost.
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      01-04-2017, 02:49 PM   #314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by velociti View Post
Yep, DSC was off -- did a long press (it's possible I did a soft disable by accident). It was definitely pouring out when I did the pulls, but figured a partial log would tell me something. I'll try to post a complete one in the dry soon. And I just figured I'd see high or maxed WGDC and low boost if it were a proper boost leak.

As for the 6psi.... Can't wait to get this sorted out and get going with my Wedge tune. Thanks for taking a look...
Looking at the 1483384639 log you definitely have a boost leak somewhere: http://datazap.me/u/velociti/log-1483384639

I see now that that log is what you're referencing when you say "falls on its face"

It's not obvious from the stage 0 mapping because there is enough WGDC overhead to hit the stock load target with 6psi, like Justin said above.

Maybe flash back to the tune and see if the DME throws you any helpful codes? Otherwise, Google for how to track down boost leaks
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      01-04-2017, 03:41 PM   #315
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Thanks for confirming -- appreciate the help! Am I running any risks by running the tune with a boost leak?
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      01-04-2017, 06:30 PM   #316
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MHD Tuning View Post
Nothing of this sort. The DME puts itself into the state of waiting for a (valid) flash. The fact that it accepted a flash once means we're close though.
Thanks for the reply!

Forgive me if i'm asking 'too much' and granted i've never opened one of these, but:
  • Has the flash extracted from the DME had it's md5/headers/offsets compared with the one you're overwriting it with?
  • What about comparing the same datapoints with a flash that's known writable from OBDII on the MED1726 (thinking DINAN/PPK)?
  • If that works, has there been any hardware monitoring on the DME (and compared with a previous one) before/during/after flashing?
  • Has the extracted flash been looked at through a disassembler (and compared as well)?

If it's waiting for a flash but rejecting them due to verification, sounds like damn good progress to me. Amazing stuff, and thanks for your hard work!
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      01-05-2017, 08:25 AM   #317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by velociti View Post
Trying to troubleshoot a boost issue. Looking for any and all advice. I'm on Stage 0 and my car's unable to hit stock boost targets. WGDC isn't maxed, getting no codes of any kind. Car just seems to fall flat on its face at 4000. New plugs gapped to .026, BMS intake, ETS chargepipe. Checked the charge pipe yesterday and it seems to be solidly hooked up and clamped down. Any other obvious suspects that I can check out?

http://datazap.me/u/velociti/log-148...og=0&data=3-12
http://datazap.me/u/velociti/log-148...og=0&data=3-12
http://datazap.me/u/velociti/log-148...og=0&data=3-12
Around 5k, the DME is "giving up " trying to adjust boost on target, see the WGDC abruptly falls 15 pts. That's sign of a leak or tired boost solenoid / vac lines.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CRYA View Post
Hi all, about to flash tonight since I've finally got an android device. Been following along and earlier asked what supporting mods were required for the E30 map and was advised at least a FMIC. I playing around with E30 and currently have a tank full of it. If I don't have supporting mods but am obviously running more than 91 octane, what other Stage 1 map would work? I did read codes this morning and it does appear I have one code likely a result from the ethanol. Sorry I didn't write it down, something about low pressure reduce speed. Unrelated, how does one take a screen shot of the code read off an android device?
Google your device name + screenshot.
On a stock car, I'd advice to stick to stage 1 or 1+, the highest 95oct version with e20 to e30.

Quote:
Originally Posted by velociti View Post
Thanks for confirming -- appreciate the help! Am I running any risks by running the tune with a boost leak?
No

Last edited by MHD Tuning; 01-05-2017 at 09:37 AM..
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      01-06-2017, 10:12 AM   #318
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Successfully flashed Stage 1 this morning but wow, 48 minute write time!
I thought for sure either the car was gonna die or the tablet battery was going to die. I was 15 minutes late to work! LOL. Hope to try for a log today but I'm pretty stock so probably nothing too exciting to see here.

Given the long initial write, how long would I expect it to take to move to 1+?
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      01-06-2017, 10:17 AM   #319
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRYA View Post
Successfully flashed Stage 1 this morning but wow, 48 minute write time!
I thought for sure either the car was gonna die or the tablet battery was going to die. I was 15 minutes late to work! LOL. Hope to try for a log today but I'm pretty stock so probably nothing too exciting to see here.

Given the long initial write, how long would I expect it to take to move to 1+?
Once MHD is loaded onto the DME, switching between maps only takes 4 to 4.5 minutes in my experience. Provided your battery is not on its last legs you should be fine to try 1+ without using a charger. As always, better to be safe than sorry, though.
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      01-06-2017, 10:17 AM   #320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRYA View Post
Successfully flashed Stage 1 this morning but wow, 48 minute write time!
I thought for sure either the car was gonna die or the tablet battery was going to die. I was 15 minutes late to work! LOL. Hope to try for a log today but I'm pretty stock so probably nothing too exciting to see here.

Given the long initial write, how long would I expect it to take to move to 1+?
Sounds like a slow device?

My initial flash took 15 minutes using a Galaxy S7 and a cheap OBDII to USB adapter (with an OTG adapter to my phone).

Map changes take me 5 minutes.
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      01-06-2017, 10:22 AM   #321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bNks334 View Post
Sounds like a slow device?

My initial flash took 15 minutes using a Galaxy S7 and a cheap OBDII to USB adapter (with an OTG adapter to my phone).

Map changes take me 5 minutes.
Yeah probably, cheap-o Digiland from BB for $35. I'm just not an Android guy.
I'll prob use a battery charger for any additional changes. This stuff freaks me out. Longest 48 minutes of my life. My wife thought I was crazy for running out to the garage in 20 degree weather to keep checking status...
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      01-06-2017, 10:46 AM   #322
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRYA View Post
Yeah probably, cheap-o Digiland from BB for $35. I'm just not an Android guy.
I'll prob use a battery charger for any additional changes. This stuff freaks me out. Longest 48 minutes of my life. My wife thought I was crazy for running out to the garage in 20 degree weather to keep checking status...
I felt the same way during those 15minutes when I flashed mine. I have a lightweight battery installed lol.

Pulling the fuel pump fuse during flashes helps. Our BMW batteries are large, but initial flashes that take 45minutes could easily kill it with the fuel pump drawing 10+ amp as it cycles the entire time.

If changing maps takes say 15minutes for you it shouldn't be all that hard on the battery with the fuel pump fuse pulled.

Running jumper cables from another car is a good way to keep the battery charged too without going out and buying an expensive car charger.
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      01-06-2017, 10:49 AM   #323
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRYA View Post
Yeah probably, cheap-o Digiland from BB for $35. I'm just not an Android guy.
I'll prob use a battery charger for any additional changes. This stuff freaks me out. Longest 48 minutes of my life. My wife thought I was crazy for running out to the garage in 20 degree weather to keep checking status...
My Note4 took 43 minutes, used my amazon kindle (android conversion) took 43 minutes, should typically take 43 minutes
15 minutes on a N54 sure...Not N55, the DME size is twice the size memorywise.
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      01-06-2017, 11:35 AM   #324
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob_BMW_PNW View Post
My Note4 took 43 minutes, used my amazon kindle (android conversion) took 43 minutes, should typically take 43 minutes
15 minutes on a N54 sure...Not N55, the DME size is twice the size memorywise.
Not to argue, but that's all it took for me

Maybe it's because my base flash was the PPK tune? Less tables to write? Or, maybe it's something with the tablets? The GS7 uses a USB type-c port vs the note4 having a basic usb port? Just trying to throw ideas out there for people looking to get faster write times.
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      01-06-2017, 02:58 PM   #325
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Originally Posted by bNks334 View Post
Not to argue, but that's all it took for me

Maybe it's because my base flash was the PPK tune? Less tables to write? Or, maybe it's something with the tablets? The GS7 uses a USB type-c port vs the note4 having a basic usb port? Just trying to throw ideas out there for people looking to get faster write times.
No clue, the NExus 7 takes a while too (WEdge)
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      01-06-2017, 05:19 PM   #326
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OK let's see if I did this right. Yes yes, total Noob blah blah blah, at least I'm trying:

http://www.datazap.me/u/cryapallas/f...og=0&data=3-17

http://www.datazap.me/u/cryapallas/s...og=0&data=3-17

http://www.datazap.me/u/cryapallas/t...og=0&data=3-17

Best I can gather from a simple review is that I have two runs with a few misfires and timing corrections which I always see you guys going on about. But I'm not versed in the context of whether my numbers are "good" "bad" or what. Thanks! Oh and for background, I have a tank full of 91 mixed with E85 which my calculator said was coming out about 94 so I flashed the 93 Stage 1. Perhaps I'm safer on the 91 stage one? What do you all recommend? Oh and plugs. Plugs were done at the dealer about 7,000 miles ago. Thanks.

Last edited by CRYA; 01-06-2017 at 05:56 PM..
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      01-06-2017, 06:56 PM   #327
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Ugh and now the SES light...back to stock I guess.
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      01-06-2017, 06:59 PM   #328
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRYA View Post
Ugh and now the SES light...back to stock I guess.
The misfires look like they occurred while your were coasting and off throttle...

The timing corrections are the result of the abrupt throttle closure. The abrupt throttle closure is the result of an overboost.

Hang tight for the next revisions to the OTS map. Should be some big changes being made. Try flashing the 91 octane tune... 93 octane flash is not meant to run on an e85 mix. E85 requires fueling adjustments. I'd think the trims should've been able to handle that small mix though.

Last edited by bNks334; 01-06-2017 at 07:10 PM..
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      01-06-2017, 07:32 PM   #329
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Yeah cool you're right. I'll back down to 91 and see how weekend goes. Too ambitious I guess. I'm a pretty conservative wannabe so 91 it shall be.
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      01-06-2017, 07:53 PM   #330
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MHD Tuning So I noticed that after flashing my car it shows a ton of fault codes (my guess is because the flash got interrupted once). I was researching them a bit and came across this:

http://www.boost
addict.com/showthread.php?69907-why-am-i-throwing-codes-when-i-flash

I am seeing many of the same error codes as listed in that thread. You suggest yourself in that thread that MHD is supposed to clear these codes after the flash finishes. You stated it has to do with the car losing communication during the flash.

Is this accurate? I noticed MHD for N55 is currently ONLY reading out engine fault codes. It doesn't seem to have the ability to clear codes from all modules like Carly.

I was thinking it could be my lightweight battery dropping voltage overnight in this cold weather. From what I've read, the DME will actually shut down certain modules to maintain the cars ability to start. The above makes sense as well... any input? Is the code clearing functionality of MHD N55 just not fully implemented yet? Or, should I be looking into the battery more? Seems like the codes haven't come back after clearing them...

Last edited by bNks334; 01-06-2017 at 08:06 PM..
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