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      02-01-2018, 04:14 AM   #23
Gangplank
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Belts are a wear item but I'd expect it should go 5years or 100k mi. That said they often get changed before that due to a leaking OFHG and squeaky belt/tensioner. Oil from the OFHG leaks on the belt and tensioner and causes a squeak (or better described as a chirping) sound at idle.
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      02-01-2018, 06:18 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bung206 View Post
Here are photos of my tensioner. I didn't find any damage on any of the other pulleys.

In addition to the slightly melted pulley, there is a rubber o-ring in between the bolt that goes into the engine and the engine block itself. That had completely dried out and was brittle like plastic. Fell to shreds as soon as I took off the tensioner. Not sure if that was the cause or what.
Those pulleys look rough. The one is scored, and the other one is melted, which is just bizarre. How do the bearings in those pulleys feel? Rough? Any binding? Any play?
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      02-01-2018, 07:49 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bung206 View Post
There’s nothing to it man. I was really concerned when I did mine but it was easy. Just need patience. Don’t force anything (too much).

- remove upper intake pipes
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lement/Hm4jdid

- if you have DCT, remove under body protection
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ement/AlpHh5nD

- remove the single torx screw that holds on the transmission cooler
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lement/HEzhiPa

- remove the screw at the top left of the radiator fan (as you face the car), unplug the power connector and pull up to remove. Pay special attention to the various clips. There is one clip on the opposite end of where the torx screw is about halfway down. One which clips into the cowling and the other which clips into one of the intercooler pipes.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lement/HEzhiPa
So no need to be under the car if 6MT... right?
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      02-01-2018, 10:14 AM   #26
OkieSnuffBox
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gangplank View Post
Belts are a wear item but I'd expect it should go 5years or 100k mi. That said they often get changed before that due to a leaking OFHG and squeaky belt/tensioner. Oil from the OFHG leaks on the belt and tensioner and causes a squeak (or better described as a chirping) sound at idle.
This is what my local indie shop told me before I picked up the car.

Had him flush the brakes and change the oil Monday, he said everything is bone dry so I'm not going to worry about it at the moment.
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      02-01-2018, 11:53 AM   #27
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I noticed on those kits that there aren’t any bolts included. Don’t you need to replace the bolts with this job? Have done it many times on my E46 (which is a piece of cake) but not yet on my 128.

Edit: I see that bolts do come with the kits...

Last edited by KNS; 02-01-2018 at 12:55 PM..
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      02-01-2018, 06:11 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox View Post
This is what my local indie shop told me before I picked up the car.

Had him flush the brakes and change the oil Monday, he said everything is bone dry so I'm not going to worry about it at the moment.
https://blog.bavauto.com/17239/bmw-n...ting-subframe/

(shared here without permission)
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      02-02-2018, 10:11 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by mr.fabulous View Post
My '13 only has 27k miles at the moment. I'll probably have it changed before I start doing any HPDEs with it though.
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      02-02-2018, 10:46 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bung206 View Post
Here are photos of my tensioner. I didn't find any damage on any of the other pulleys.

In addition to the slightly melted pulley, there is a rubber o-ring in between the bolt that goes into the engine and the engine block itself. That had completely dried out and was brittle like plastic. Fell to shreds as soon as I took off the tensioner. Not sure if that was the cause or what.
Holy crap. Looks like the pulley was rubbing against the block or something.
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      02-02-2018, 06:29 PM   #31
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Hey guys,

I sent a PM to CRP Automotive - to ask for the correct kit for a 135i N54.


The correct CONTITECH Drive Belt Kit for a N54 135i is: ContiTech ADK0050P


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      02-02-2018, 07:44 PM   #32
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cheaper kit including 4 pulleys for n55

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...1287582946kt2/

And n54

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...t/n54acbeltkt/
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      02-03-2018, 12:54 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Don't worry... my car also squeaks at idle.
Likewise, and my 2011 N55 made an identical sound as well. Whatever.

As far as belts getting sucked into the engine around the crank, I have heard this is an issue isolated to the N54. My independent mechanic has seen it more than a few times now.

Any more data on that?
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      02-03-2018, 08:30 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bung206 View Post
- remove the screw at the top left of the radiator fan (as you face the car), unplug the power connector and pull up to remove. Pay special attention to the various clips. There is one clip on the opposite end of where the torx screw is about halfway down. One which clips into the cowling and the other which clips into one of the intercooler pipes.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lement/HEzhiPa
picture caption says "Release charge air duct (1) from rubber mount (2) on fan cowl." Any advise on how to do that would really help, I am stuck.
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      02-03-2018, 01:23 PM   #35
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I heard of the same issues with the 128i/N52, so a couple weeks ago, I changed my idler pulley, tensioner pulley, and serpentine belt as my car is approaching 60k miles.

While it's admittedly a plug for an ad I posted here, I also wanted to flag for others reading these posts that I have new in-the-box OEM tensioner pulleys for sale for less than the retail price here at this link:
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1463178

An order mistake resulted in me getting more pulleys than the one I intended to order for the swap I mentioned earlier. I'd merely like to get some money out of them but also clear them off my parts shelf. Thanks.
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      02-03-2018, 06:03 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02Pilot View Post
Those pulleys look rough. The one is scored, and the other one is melted, which is just bizarre. How do the bearings in those pulleys feel? Rough? Any binding? Any play?
Nope! They all seem smooth as butter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.fabulous View Post
So no need to be under the car if 6MT... right?
Correct. Only DCT have the transmission cooler which is secured to the bottom of the radiator with a single torx screw.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.fabulous View Post
picture caption says "Release charge air duct (1) from rubber mount (2) on fan cowl." Any advise on how to do that would really help, I am stuck.
First of all (if you have the DCT) ensure you’ve unscrewed the torx screw at the bottom of the fan cowling to release the transmission cooler.

Then, put a large flathead screwdriver thru the opening on the rubber piece. Put it in sideways so it goes in with no resistance. Then turn it 90 degrees and simultaneously pull up on the fan, taking care not to over stress anything. The rubber piece is attached to the fan cowling, and clips in to the “charge air” piping.

Make sure you’ve released the plastic clip that is just above that rubber piece as well.
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      02-03-2018, 06:10 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bung206 View Post
Then, put a large flathead screwdriver thru the opening on the rubber piece. Put it in sideways so it goes in with no resistance. Then turn it 90 degrees and simultaneously pull up on the fan, taking care not to over stress anything. The rubber piece is attached to the fan cowling, and clips in to the “charge air” piping.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lement/HEzhiPa

Sorry if I'm being dumb. Put a flathead screwdriver in to the slot, crank it clockwise, and pull up? That might make sense (and I clearly need a longer screwdriver). How do I get it back together?
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      02-03-2018, 06:13 PM   #38
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You push it in of course. Don’t be afraid to force it a little so long as you have ensured it’s not catching on anything. Don’t get frustrated and pull.

Also take care when working on the tensioner. you’re working right in front of the radiator so be careful not to ram wrenches or scewdrivers or anything into it to damage the fins and cause a coolant leak.
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      02-03-2018, 08:52 PM   #39
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^^ Put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator.
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      02-04-2018, 04:23 PM   #40
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Someone should take some pics and make a DIY thread for the forum.
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      02-07-2018, 10:03 AM   #41
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Just received my 2 belt kits from ECS, one for my 128 and one the wifes e91. I think I know what I'm doing this weekend...
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      02-07-2018, 12:57 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olds350 View Post
Just received my 2 belt kits from ECS, one for my 128 and one the wifes e91. I think I know what I'm doing this weekend...
Do mine too!!
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      02-07-2018, 12:59 PM   #43
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I want to do mine while it's stored up but I check and it seems fine but I'm at 55k and I'm torn. What do you guys think?
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      02-07-2018, 05:17 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YearOneOne View Post
I want to do mine while it's stored up but I check and it seems fine but I'm at 55k and I'm torn. What do you guys think?
Personally I wouldn’t do it unless a belt or pulley need to be replaced
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