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02-01-2018, 04:14 AM | #23 |
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Belts are a wear item but I'd expect it should go 5years or 100k mi. That said they often get changed before that due to a leaking OFHG and squeaky belt/tensioner. Oil from the OFHG leaks on the belt and tensioner and causes a squeak (or better described as a chirping) sound at idle.
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02-01-2018, 06:18 AM | #24 | |
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02-01-2018, 07:49 AM | #25 | |
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02-01-2018, 10:14 AM | #26 | |
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Had him flush the brakes and change the oil Monday, he said everything is bone dry so I'm not going to worry about it at the moment. |
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02-01-2018, 11:53 AM | #27 |
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I noticed on those kits that there aren’t any bolts included. Don’t you need to replace the bolts with this job? Have done it many times on my E46 (which is a piece of cake) but not yet on my 128.
Edit: I see that bolts do come with the kits... Last edited by KNS; 02-01-2018 at 12:55 PM.. |
02-01-2018, 06:11 PM | #28 | |
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(shared here without permission)
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02-02-2018, 10:11 AM | #29 | |
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02-02-2018, 10:46 AM | #30 | |
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02-02-2018, 06:29 PM | #31 |
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Hey guys,
I sent a PM to CRP Automotive - to ask for the correct kit for a 135i N54. The correct CONTITECH Drive Belt Kit for a N54 135i is: ContiTech ADK0050P
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02-02-2018, 07:44 PM | #32 |
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cheaper kit including 4 pulleys for n55
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...1287582946kt2/ And n54 https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...t/n54acbeltkt/ |
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02-03-2018, 12:54 AM | #33 |
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Likewise, and my 2011 N55 made an identical sound as well. Whatever.
As far as belts getting sucked into the engine around the crank, I have heard this is an issue isolated to the N54. My independent mechanic has seen it more than a few times now. Any more data on that? |
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02-03-2018, 08:30 AM | #34 | |
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02-03-2018, 01:23 PM | #35 |
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I heard of the same issues with the 128i/N52, so a couple weeks ago, I changed my idler pulley, tensioner pulley, and serpentine belt as my car is approaching 60k miles.
While it's admittedly a plug for an ad I posted here, I also wanted to flag for others reading these posts that I have new in-the-box OEM tensioner pulleys for sale for less than the retail price here at this link: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1463178 An order mistake resulted in me getting more pulleys than the one I intended to order for the swap I mentioned earlier. I'd merely like to get some money out of them but also clear them off my parts shelf. Thanks. |
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02-03-2018, 06:03 PM | #36 | ||
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Correct. Only DCT have the transmission cooler which is secured to the bottom of the radiator with a single torx screw. Quote:
Then, put a large flathead screwdriver thru the opening on the rubber piece. Put it in sideways so it goes in with no resistance. Then turn it 90 degrees and simultaneously pull up on the fan, taking care not to over stress anything. The rubber piece is attached to the fan cowling, and clips in to the “charge air” piping. Make sure you’ve released the plastic clip that is just above that rubber piece as well. |
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02-03-2018, 06:10 PM | #37 | |
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Sorry if I'm being dumb. Put a flathead screwdriver in to the slot, crank it clockwise, and pull up? That might make sense (and I clearly need a longer screwdriver). How do I get it back together?
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02-03-2018, 06:13 PM | #38 |
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You push it in of course. Don’t be afraid to force it a little so long as you have ensured it’s not catching on anything. Don’t get frustrated and pull.
Also take care when working on the tensioner. you’re working right in front of the radiator so be careful not to ram wrenches or scewdrivers or anything into it to damage the fins and cause a coolant leak. |
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02-04-2018, 04:23 PM | #40 |
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Someone should take some pics and make a DIY thread for the forum.
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02-07-2018, 12:57 PM | #42 |
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02-07-2018, 05:17 PM | #44 |
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