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      11-20-2017, 03:50 AM   #221
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The CSF radiator strikes again!

The CSF radiator is quite a bit thicker than the the stock unit (around 4-5mm)

This means the fan sits a bit further back, which in itself is not an issue

The lower charge pipe however, has a bracket which mounts onto the fan, this pushes the charge pipe back and makes contact with the airconditioning hard pipe. I noticed this on installation so I removed the rubber grommet and wrapped the aircon line with felt tape.

Unfortunately this wasnt enough and the charge pipe has rubbed through, I came back to the car with a small puddle of oil underneath it. This is the oil from the AC compressor to keep it from running dry.

The solution to this was to cut off the bracket for the lower charge pipe so it doesn't touch. Now it seems to have adequate clearance and should not be an issue.

New AC pipe has been ordered, wasn't cheap Will fit the pipe and refill the oil and R134a refrigerant. The oil quantity must be filled according to the service instructions. There is no oil level gauge in the system so BMW give you a list of oil quantities based on what parts are replaced. e.g 35ml for a damaged line, or 50ml if the AC compressor is replaced. I will fit the line myself and organise an AC specialist to refill the system.
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      11-20-2017, 04:36 PM   #222
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I was going to get a CSF as mine has a pin hole leak... Do you think this would be an issue for e9x? I suppose after market CPs might not have the bracket also.
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      11-20-2017, 09:19 PM   #223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aus335iguy View Post
I was going to get a CSF as mine has a pin hole leak... Do you think this would be an issue for e9x? I suppose after market CPs might not have the bracket also.
Will probably still be an issue on the e9x as the parts/placement are all the same for the charge piping and radiator. Aftermarket pipes wont have issues as none of them have a bracket.
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      11-23-2017, 11:16 PM   #224
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FCP order arrived after 1 week and I was able to replace the air con pipe.

The new pipe is actually different to the old one, the bend nearest to the charge pipe is prone to rubbing on the charge pipe even on an unmodified car. So the new pipe has extra bends for clearance.

Unfortunately RealOEM (BMW ETK) did not mention that the new pipe requires the new bracket and my old bracket 64539132483 does not fit the new pipe. Normally when new parts require new supporting parts, realoem indicates that the new part is only exchangeable when used in conjunction with the additional parts. The correct clip is only found on newer cars on production dates 2011 and onwards.I found the new bracket on the diagram for the BMW 1M: Part number 64539239769

I had to remove the bracket entirely to get the pipe to fit, as the pipe is quite rigid and the bracket is not so critical. The weather is hot in Melbourne and it has been very bad without air conditioning so I did not want to wait.

Left the car with Jin @ EasternBM in Bayswater to get the system purged and recharged. Air Con recharging and reoiling is one of the few jobs I can't DIY so for the first time I ever, I took my into a workshop. He got the Aircon recharged for a very good price and very short notice, very happy with the turnaround time.
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      11-23-2017, 11:38 PM   #225
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holy shit vtl actually couldnt do something to his car!!!
More rare than seeing Haleys comet!

So no aircon ay? Pity coz we had a heatwave since coming back from Tassie. Like I said to you earlier, once you go luxury, you cant go back!!
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      11-23-2017, 11:45 PM   #226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terminator335i View Post
holy shit vtl actually couldnt do something to his car!!!
More rare than seeing Haleys comet!

So no aircon ay? Pity coz we had a heatwave since coming back from Tassie. Like I said to you earlier, once you go luxury, you cant go back!!
Yeah I had to drive to Point Cook in traffic and on my way back the M1 roadworks near the West Gate bridge got me. All exits blocked off so couldnt get out of it. Sat for 40minutes in traffic with no aircon on a hot night, took me around 1.5 hours to get home.

All good now though!
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      12-07-2017, 08:24 PM   #227
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I have noticed that the rubber piece on the stock charge pipe is prone to collapse on a tuned car. This results in the rubber folding over itself, causing stress to the rubber and eventually causing pinhole leaks. I have replaced the hose once already with an old spare one, but it has now happened again. Would probably be fine if this part was available to purchase brand new, but you have to buy a brand new charge pipe.

I decided to buy a 45 degree, 2.5" Turbosmart hose, which will match up with my Turbosmart diverters nicely. This hose will be stronger and not give me any greif in the future. The hose fit pretty well, but does not allow the charge pipe to flex much. I tried finding a 45 degree silicone hump hose, which has a joint which can flex, but all i could find were straight versions

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbosma...53.m2749.l2649

Good news is the turbo siren noise has reduced dramatically, and when the roads arent wet I will be able to see if the spool response is improved.
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      12-10-2017, 07:51 AM   #228
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Gave the car a good wash, I have not given it a proper wash after the tasmania trip.

Was quite dirty and still a lot of stuff stuck to the paint which needs to be clayed off. I also took the opportunity to remove all wheels and wash the wheel wells, as we did have to drive on some dirt roads in tasmania. I have never washed the wheel wells before, and the rears especially have almost 10 years worth of trapped dust and dirt in there. I used a high pressure hose and sponge to get the crap off, although there's still a lot of stuck on dirt I was not able to get off.
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      12-11-2017, 06:55 AM   #229
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What's the secret to making the OEM CP last?
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      12-11-2017, 08:10 AM   #230
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Quote:
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What's the secret to making the OEM CP last?
Just dont use the 2009+ one piece charge pipe. The 2 piece old version charge pipe is tough and reliable, 200,000km cant be wrong
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      02-08-2018, 08:33 PM   #231
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Ended up purchasing a set of KW competition coilovers a while ago.

This setup was bought 2nd hand, looks a bit rough but was a decent price for such a high end coilover. I bought them with the intention of changing out the springs and swapping in custom rates.

The KWs came with the original springs for the fronts, but an MCA setup on the rear. Front springs are 61mm KW springs with unknown spring rate. Fronts have a helper spring which make annoying noises coming to a stop.

The rear springs are 200mm, 16KG 62mm MCA springs. These would be way too stiff for my liking.


I ended up going with HR ID springs

Front: 60mm internal diameter, 200mm length, 50N/mm
Rear 2.5" internal diameter, 10" length, 600lbs/in

Converted to kg = 5.1KG front, 10.7KG rear

These rates were chosen to be street friendly on an E82. This should control the body roll and prevent the rear wheels from unloading, resulting in a loss of grip on tight corners. On an E92 you can get away with higher spring rates as it is a heavier chassis with a longer wheelbase.

From my experience the rear springs and shocks dominate the ride quality. I have ridden in E82s with 12KG rear springs and felt it was too stiff for daily driving, not to mention its not the best for grip over rough mountain roads. I decided to go for a bit less stiff. A 10" length was chosen to provide adequate length to run a sensible ride height. This length will not be loose when the suspension is at full droop as well. This rear setup should allow me to run a similar ride height to what I'm running now, which is quite sensible.

For the fronts I chose 5kg springs. The front spring rate is important to prevent excessive body roll, which can unload the rear wheels in tight corners. Currently, the kw V2 front spring rates are 3.5kg, which are a bit too soft and allow the rear inside wheel to unload on sharp tight corners. With a torsen diff this would make it pretty useless and feel like an open diff when it unloads. I have driven quaife/mfactory equipped cars on similar spring rates and it feels very inconsistent. With the M3 diff it means the wheels spin up a bit before locking, which is annoying. With stiffer spring rates you can get a torsen diff to work, have driven a 135i with 6kg/12kg springs and felt like it made the Torsen diff work. I am hoping this setup will give me more traction with the M3 diff.

Another thing to consider is that the KW setup comes with spherical bearings for the front top hats. The spherical bearing is used to position the angle of the front strut, while the steering motion is handled by the shock itself rotating. This means the spring has to rotate on the spring perch. With no thrust bearing to reduce friction this can be the source of noise and clunks, and also potentially increase steering effort. Springs will also coilup when compressed, so resistance to that motion can also effect the spring rate.

To solve this, I decided to purchase an ABS sheet and got a coworker to laser cut them for me. This bit of plastic can dampen the metal-metal contact between the spring and perch and also reduce the friction and allow the spring to rotate easier. I also purchased some thrust bearings for the top side, which allows the top hat to rotate much easier. my only concern is the needle thrust bearings I've purchased are unsealed, but might be fine if I just replace them periodically before every alignment.

Front struts are ready to install, still have some bits to sort out for the rear but will hopefully install soon. I liked the thrust bearings so I will replicate the setup on the rear as well, hopefully this will allow the rear adjustment to be easier, as it will not fight the adjustment collar while it turns.
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      02-09-2018, 03:35 AM   #232
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Great buy with the KW comps mate, can't wait to follow behind you on our next track day

Also, waiting to hear your input on how beneficial you find the separate adjustment for the compression and rebound for the rear dampers.

The Íhlins I've got at the moment, only have one knob to adjust all 4 areas of dampening (fast and slow compression, and fast and slow rebound). I've got no issue with having one knob to adjust everything so far, but it'd probably be better if I had the freedom to play around with the slow compression and slow rebound separately!
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      02-09-2018, 05:02 AM   #233
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Why did you ditch the helper springs ?
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      02-09-2018, 05:00 PM   #234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traf View Post
Why did you ditch the helper springs ?
Helper springs look cool but are really only needed on racing setups where the spring rates are very high and/or the ride height is very low. With these high rate springs they don't compress much from full droop from the cars body weight. If you move the spring perch to give enough preload on the spring to stop it from being loose at full droop, your ride height will probably be too high. So the helper spring is useful in allowing you to run the desired ride height while keeping the spring in place at full droop.

On this setup I am only using a 5kg spring, unless I ran a really low ride height I don't need them. I have no interest in stancing out my car, with the ride height I will run, the helpers would be compressed at full droop. Removing the helpers just reduces the complexity of the system and helps prevents creaks and rattles.
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      05-10-2018, 01:15 AM   #235
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Not much updates over the last few months, have since moved house and picked up a 2nd car which will be more practical in moving stuff around.

The Honda CRV is a good support vehicle and should be a dependable beast for when I need to work on the 135i.
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      05-10-2018, 01:17 AM   #236
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A while back I replaced the AC line but the original bracket does not fit the new AC line. Finally got around to installing it. Not a critical item but its good to have it complete.
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      05-10-2018, 01:38 AM   #237
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Since I have owned the car there has always been a small amount of oil near the join between the transmission and engine. I had feared it was the rear main seal but when I dropped the transmission for the clutch job, the seal was completely dry. I then attributed the oil leak to the turbo oil drains.

After replacing the turbos and fitting new seals I found the leak was still there, and getting worse. Only possible explanation would be the oil pan gasket. Luckily the parts are cheap, but its quite a time consuming job.

Unfortunately I did not have any power steering fluid in stock, so I did the job with the subframe hanging loose and the steering rack still attached via the hydraulic lines. This was a huge mistake and makes the job very slow, there are many many oil pan bolts to access and on jackstands its a slow process accessing them all getting in and out under the car.

I cleaned up the oil pan, which turned out great, at that point the job was going very smoothly. The aluminium bolts for the oil pan require 8Nm+ 180 degrees for the long bolts and 60 degrees for the short bolts. Unfortunately I miscalculated the amount of angle and over tightened several bolts until I realised. This meant the bolts had to be thrown away, and because this is such a critical gasket, I elected to throw that out too. Luckily Socket had a spare oil pan gasket kit, so I used that kit to get my car back on the road the next week. Overall not a fun job at all.

Suggested strategy for doing oil pan:

Remove microfilter cowl
Remove air filter, charge pipe and lower charge pipe
Remove fan
Unbolt coolant hard pipe from subframe
Remove steering linkage bolt closest to firewall
Remove screws for front inlet pipe, pull inlet forward for access to belt tensioner
Loosen tension on belt and remove belt

Jack up car

Remove undertray
Remove sway bar
Disconnect steering shaft from firewall
Unbolt steering rack from subframe
Drain engine oil
Remove 4 bolts to engine mounts to the subframe
Unbolt power steering pump (this bolts onto the oil pan)
Support engine with engine brace from lift point
Unbolt front subframe and lower onto blocks.
Undo all bolts for oil pan, clean all surfaces
Install oil pan, torque all bolts to 8Nm
Apply 180 degrees to all the long bolts, 60 degrees of rotation for the short bolts.

Reassemble engine, refill oil. Additional steps are required for automatic transmissions.
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      05-10-2018, 01:45 AM   #238
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While the car was in the air for the oil pan job waiting for a new gasket and bolts, I decided to fit the GAS monoball bushings from the recent group buy organised by DR-JEKL

This upgrade replaces the rubber bushing in the control arm to a ball joint. If you already have m3 control arms, this bushing is the final bit of rubber in the front suspension arms, so now it is fully ball jointed.

https://www.germanautosolutions.com/..._monoballs.php

One bushing went in very easily, but the other one took quite a lot of force to install. I maxed out the 12 ton press many times, and eventually had to keep repositioning the part and press it in at an offset angle to get it down further.

Eventually got them in flush and the steering feels exceptionally sharp and responsive now. Very happy with the mod. Only a small amount of additional NVH introduced
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      05-14-2018, 01:58 AM   #239
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A while back I installed an M3 microfilter cowl. The only thing that I never adressed was the AUC sensor, the stock wiring harness is too short for the sensor to mount into the cowl. The AUC sensor is a sensor that detects the particles in the air, and controls the automatic recirculation for the HVAC. I have not found the system to be particularly effective and is a pretty usless sensor. Nevertheless, it would be nice to mount the sensor in the proper location rather than just dangling in the brake booster area.

Luckily, most automotive connectors used in German cars can be disassembled, repair or modified. I removed the 3 pin plug off the harness and made up an extension harness with MQS pins. This allowed the existing pins in the harness to plug into my extension harness, which I encased in heatshrink. I then attached the old connector plug onto the extension harness.

The sensor now can be mounted onto the M3 microfilter cowl, minor detail but nice to have it attached properly. I have not noticed any improvement in the auto re circulation function . Best of all, the original harness wasn't cut up and can be reverted if I want to eventually go back to stock.
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      05-14-2018, 02:11 AM   #240
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Ever since I have had the car, the iDrive controller back button was chipped (doesn't show up in the pictures but it looks worse in person) and the scroll action quite sticky. When I bought the CIC system retrofit setup, it unfortunately came with a very poor condition controller. The rubber grip ring on the controller eventually came loose and wouldn't stay on, so I decided to buy a fresh controller. These are in reasonably high demand, so theyre not particularly cheap. I eventually found one in great condition and with the updated 'media' button instead of the 'cd' button.

Only downside to the controller (which I didn't realize when I bought it) was that it had chrome trims instead of matte silver. Nothing else in my interior has chrome in it (all matte or brushed silver). Luckily the trims are easily removed, just grip the outer chrome controller ring and it comes out. Then the larger chrome piece behind the knob can be unclipped and removed.

Feels good to finally have a fresh controller
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      05-14-2018, 04:26 AM   #241
Aus335iguy
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Drives: 2009 e92 335i MSport DCT
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2009 BMW 335i  [5.00]
Love the attention to detail V.
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      05-16-2018, 09:12 AM   #242
johnny135
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As I said before, your detailed write up is awesome!

I’m pretty sure I have the same oil pan leak, albeit very small. Every time I go under there is a drop of oil, nothing more. Wipe it down, check it months later. From your write up above, doesn’t look like something I want to tackle at home!
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