10-15-2016, 01:38 AM | #1 |
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Clutch Masters Clutch/SMFW Problems
I recently purchased a single mass aluminum flywheel and fx350 clutch kit for my 1M at clutch masters reccomendation after explaining to them my needs. I wanted a stiffer pedal, but minimal chatter. They reccomended 03075-HDFF-D clutch and FW075-AL flywheel.
This whole experience has been an absolute nightmare product wise and customer service wise. The first problem came, when the torque plate for the flywheel (a steel plate as to not marr the aluminum when tq-ing the bolts down) came undersized and the ID of it wouldnt slip over the raised portion of the flywheel. Calling clutch masters, they offered to send the correct one, but ground shipping. Or a second option was to take it to a machine shop...As I had already reserved a lift to do the job, I asked them if they could overnight it in an envelope, (14 bucks max). Thier response was they dont have the ability to send overnight letters. Ok... to the machine shop we go. While doing the clutch, I find the flywheel ID where it is supposed to be on the crankshaft is too small. Since its Saturday, and my car is stuck, apart on the lift, I head back to the machine shop for an emergency session. Everything turns out perfect, I put the car back together, and go for a drive. Wait, why is the pedal lighter than stock? This clutch slips like normal until it heats up then grabs hard. Lots of driveline chatter..... I call clutch masters and ask why its a softer pedal and why so much chatter? They stress relieve the pressure plate for LESS clamping force and put an aggressive grabby disc in there. EXACTLY WHAT I SAID I DIDN'T WANT. .....now....When it heats up, I find its having a hard time going into 1st gear and reverse. Great, I start to suspect the release bearing. There are 2 positions for it on the fork, high and low. When asking clutch masters which to go with eariler, thier response was to put it on the same was BMW had it..... in this case the low position. Theoretically, putting it on the high position should give the fork a little more ways to push the release bearing. So tonight, I took everything apart again and swapped the release bearing position to the high setting. No change, clutch is still not fully releasing. Yes I blead the clutch, yes the pivot pin in new (bronze). Clutch masters was unwilling to compinsate me for the machine work I had to do to make the flywheel fit, and were basically real jerks about it. Lets not mention the spec is obviously off and the disc or flywheel plate is too thick causing the disc to still be engaged. I will never reccomended clutch masters to anyone. Not only did they intentionally sell me a type of product I expressly said I didn't want, but were unwilling to fix any of the technical problems with thier products. Last edited by hot-j; 10-15-2016 at 02:14 PM.. |
10-15-2016, 02:41 PM | #2 |
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I am really shocked to read something like this as I have had outstanding service and support from Clutch Masters. I am runing their FX850 twin disc and lightweight SMFW which is their mackdaddy clutch. Chatter is inherent when you go with a SMFW just depend on how much. After 8k miles my chatter has diminished, but still slightly present. Using the correct oil cocktail is very important to eliminate a lot of chatter
http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/uuc/a...uce_rattle.htm I made sure to give them all data that was needed before things were shipped, and requested bolt torque settings also. Clutch was installed flawlessly. Now common install errors have been known for low and high side being set incorrectly which affect putting the car in gear. You might want to search more on the this topic as it has been something widely and mistakenly done. Hope you get things worked out though......... Edit: Just got confirmation, mine was set to high position which is low for stock (which is what CM was referring to), more likely yours was set in the reverse. Last edited by BQTuning; 10-15-2016 at 02:56 PM.. |
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10-15-2016, 06:48 PM | #3 |
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The chatter I am referring to is when engagement results in driveline shaking. I couldn't care less about idle chatter. If I don't rev past 2k rpm when engaging the clutch, the chatter occurrs.
For the release bearing, I have already tried both high and low settings with no change in results. I am frustrated beyond belief by this. The change in performances with the lighter flywheel was noticeable, and ideally I would like to find a way to keep it, but thats not a likely scenario. |
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10-15-2016, 08:25 PM | #4 |
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The chatter you describe can occur with any clutch if used hard in the first 500 miles, and it sounds like this clutch has actually forced you to do that.
I also had a great experience with CM clutch and lightweight flywheel on a honda years back, and had almost pulled the trigger on a CM clutch (retaining the DMFW, though) before I decided to go with the F10 set-up. This almost makes me wonder if they have made some incorrect assumptions about compatibility, maybe gave you a 135i setup.
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10-15-2016, 08:42 PM | #5 | |
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Not only on my setup, but the 1M itself too. Yes it has the N54, but obviously the crankshaft is different.... as such they should really do some R&D before billing a setup to fit a special car. I have a suspicion, That I am the only 1M with thier AL flywheel. |
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10-15-2016, 09:02 PM | #6 |
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10-15-2016, 10:09 PM | #7 |
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10-15-2016, 10:53 PM | #8 |
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10-15-2016, 11:01 PM | #9 |
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10-16-2016, 03:41 PM | #10 |
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I just took the car out for another spin. Cold, it shifts perfect, engages perfect..... as the car warms, and the clutch warms, shifting unless moving degrades along with the engagement.... the warmer it gets the more slip it takes ro engage smoothly. This HAS to be a tolerance issue with the disc/FW/PP together.
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05-12-2017, 05:23 PM | #12 |
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I recently installed the same clutch with a new stock DMFW . I'm getting the exact same symptoms as you described. Smooth when cold but as it heats up the chatter is just ridiculous and I need to rev past 2k and slip it for it to be smooth.
Its driving me crazy, I am really considering swapping it for a 550i clutch or maybe back to stock. Please let me know what you ended up doing! Would really appreciate it. |
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05-12-2017, 05:29 PM | #13 |
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This is the wonderful world of aftermarket parts - that few talk about. Crappy parts and even crappier service.
A SMFW will make a ton of noise. That's the reason why BMW went with a DMFW. I think maybe a 550i clutch might be a better option with a new DMFW for a 1M. I hope it all works out for you fellas. Dackel
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10-28-2018, 11:57 PM | #15 |
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I am happy with my F10 550i OEM clutch from BMW, with 1M DMFW. It is as smooth as the original and holds 450ft-lb rwtq as measured in dyno dynamics no problem.
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01-25-2019, 11:26 AM | #16 |
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Did you have any problems during the installation of the clutch? I dropped mine last week to get installed and the guys at the shop have been having trouble fitting it, apparently the new disc is too thick so the clutch remains engaged when the pedal is not being pressed.
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01-26-2019, 09:03 PM | #17 | |
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Quote:
Definitely have them check the clutch slave cylinder. Mine failed shortly after install. It popped out of the housing and would not retract, which would create the problem you describe. The housing is PLASTIC (crazy, right?) so if your old clutch was slipping a lot it may have become deformed. I am not sure how obvious it would be during install, but with hailing them inspect it. You have a 1M, correct? N54 135 will NOT accept this clutch.
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1M track toy mods: BMS chargepipe, BMS OCC, ADE FMIC, ADE motor mounts, MadDad/Lightweight Ti exhaust, ADE custom oil thermostat/cooler, custom MHD tune, F10 550i clutch, Ohlins R+T, Vorschlag camber plates, M3 'vert FSB with Turner endlinks, Stoptech Trophy BBK.
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01-29-2019, 08:43 AM | #18 | |
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I actually ordered a new slave cylinder after reading about it failing from your older post. I really researched all the forums for as much info as I could before I ordered the 550i clutch. The guys at the shop told me yesterday that a self-regulating ring from the pressure plate had moved (during shipping maybe?) so they were trying to reset it back to it's original position so the clutch would be able to disengage. I hope they can figure it out soon and I can have my clutch installed. I'll let you know how it goes.
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01-29-2019, 07:14 PM | #19 |
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Yeah, I eventually saw your other post. I'm just too lazy to edit, LOL. I hope they get it sorted.
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1M track toy mods: BMS chargepipe, BMS OCC, ADE FMIC, ADE motor mounts, MadDad/Lightweight Ti exhaust, ADE custom oil thermostat/cooler, custom MHD tune, F10 550i clutch, Ohlins R+T, Vorschlag camber plates, M3 'vert FSB with Turner endlinks, Stoptech Trophy BBK.
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