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07-23-2019, 01:13 AM | #23 |
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OK, thinking of how to plumb a parallel connection to the OFH to a factory cooler in the drivers wheelwell (technically designed for water in the PPK kit, but it's an identical cooler to the oil one). I am using factory options for two reasons, cost (found one cheap on ebay) and limited space...I have a brake duct kit. I also like having factory fitup.
Things I am considering that I'd appreciate thoughts on: 1. It's important for parallel systems to have balanced flow, otherwise one cooler carries most of the load. The idea discussed above about a restrictor plate in the factory side needs to be confirmed. It looks like there is a metal band in the factory drivers line, FWIW. If there is a significant restrictor, I think I need to get it out and then find a good solution to reconnect the hose. Maybe one of these https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-at981510erl and two hose clamps? 2. Anyone used or have knowledge of acceptable use of one of these? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Oil-Filter-...53.m1438.l2649 Bolts to the bottom of the OFH and lets you route your lines stage left (drivers). Also leaves the top connections open for me for something else (Accusump). Seems ideal...but it also looks like it could have horrible fitment and leaks due to being a cheap overseas part. 3. Thoughts on rubber vs PTFE? Thinking of going PTFE. If I can use the part above in #2, this appears to be easy...Bolt that part to the bottom of the OFH, bolt the factory lines for the passenger side to the bottom of it. Put two AN10 fittings into the side, route two PTFE hoses (one side with AN10 fittings) to the new cooler(I will need to use a hose clamp at that end given it just has a flared end vice what the oil cooler has.) If the part in #2 is know to be a POS, I think I'll do two banjos to the top of the OFH and figure out how to plumb in the Accusump to the return line via a Tee. FWIW, I've already received the cooler and have ordered all the factory bits to mount it up and route flow(like the PPK2 kit). All I need is to decide on a hookup/routing setup for the hoses.
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07-23-2019, 07:52 AM | #24 | |||||
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Berns is doing time attack and pretty much has a race car at this point so the 180* might be fine for him. Quote:
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Last edited by bbnks2; 07-23-2019 at 08:18 AM.. |
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07-23-2019, 08:08 AM | #25 | |
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Also remember to grab the OE shroud that goes along with the PPK retrofit kit. Gotta get air to the drivers side cooler somehow. Last edited by bbnks2; 07-23-2019 at 08:19 AM.. |
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07-23-2019, 08:36 AM | #26 | |
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07-23-2019, 11:36 AM | #27 |
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Looking forward to seeing your progress on this! It's interesting to me because you are using the OE HW (which I prefer when possible) and you are trying to mount them in parallel. The in parallel part is very intriguing because berns is running two slightly larger coolers in series and still has cooling issues in some scenarios. I am looking forward to seeing if two factory coolers in parallel can get the job done. If not, I remember someone showing me an OE cooler on a different car, I think the 535, that mounts in the passenger fender but was larger than the OE E82 cooler. Not sure about fitment though.
There is this company that makes a larger cooler for the E92 M3 DCT, which mounts in the same location as our stock oil cooler. part: https://www.do88.se/en/artiklar/bmw-...er-racing.html. They were willing to sell me the cooler at a discount without their shroud, but could not confirm fitment so I kind of gave up on that option. It looks like it will work though. I believe the E92 M3 DCT oil cooler is the same as our oil cooler, and this upgrade appears to be using the factory mounting bracket.
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07-23-2019, 12:17 PM | #28 | |
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Would be interesting to see the results of the thermostat test if you get around to it. These two items are the main things stopping me from doing my own kit.
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07-23-2019, 10:37 PM | #29 | |
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A side note...I have not experienced DCT temp or performance issues and it is the same transmission as the M3. Admittedly I am in the PNW, where temps are rarely over 80F. Interesting that so many M3 guys have overheat issues but 135 guys seem to have less issues. maybe it's straight up horsepower related. Given that the cooler that is used (water/oil) in the 135i means that the water temp, at around 200F, will try to maintain that as the DCT temp on our cars. That means there is inefficiency to adding a separate cooler after that in-line. But BMW obviously added that cooler to get the DCT "up to temp" and apparently that was bigger concern than actually cooling it. Need to research people who have done DCT coolers (I know Asbjorn has but he is in crazy hot temps). I have the slon pan now and really need to do some logging to see if I need to address it.
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07-23-2019, 10:51 PM | #30 |
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This was an interesting post. Seems to summarize other data I have been hoovering from the interwebs tonight:
https://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tec.../#post10388326
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07-24-2019, 12:47 AM | #31 |
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Another thought: Tempted to get used OE hoses for the right side and cut them and connect to the drivers side. Equal flow for parallel coolers is key to max performance...
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07-24-2019, 07:34 PM | #32 |
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Found my old emails to do88. They were going to reduce the price by 20% without the shroud. So it would’ve been around 800 plus 50 for shipping.
The oe part number between the M3 dct cooler and n5x oil cooler are different, but the csf upgrade for both parts was the same part number, so I assumed the do88 would mate up to the factory n5x oil lines.
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07-25-2019, 01:10 AM | #33 | |
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08-07-2019, 08:00 PM | #34 |
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Well, the fitting arrived today and, contrary to what I thought, it does not route in parallel...just a cleaner way to route in series. Seems decent quality tho. Bummer..now I need to decide if I wanna do parallel or just hook up what I have...
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08-08-2019, 08:47 AM | #35 |
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That sucks. Tough decision for sure. One side of me would say try it in series and see if it meets my needs. The other side says it would be annoying (just because I have little free time now) to have to go back and figure out a parallel solution if in series doesn’t work.
If you have the time, I personally would try it and go from there. I think I have done my suspension three or four times trying to figure out what I want lol. |
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08-31-2019, 04:19 PM | #36 |
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So, I got the parallel solution working.
Got a cooler on ebay for $89 but I did have to build the front tension bracket as it somehow didn't still have the bracket attached. I sourced the oil lines from a wrecking yard for $50. Got some fittings from Summit for about $100. Ducting kit and other mounting parts from Tisher ~ $175. Used two Mishimoto 90 degree AN-10 to 1.5 x 20mm to attached to the top of the OFH. Used a 90 degree and a 45 degree Summit twist-tite AN-10 hose ends. (Don't recommend these, both had minor leaks that I couldn't stop - ended up having Summit ship me conical repair seals gratis to correct since I'd have to cut the hoses due to the barb fittings and it would be more of a PITA to RMA than it was worth...to Summit's credit, they did what I asked and made it right with the conical seals, which appear to have solved the problem.) I used a heat gun to melt the intake duct underside into a shape that would allow the fittings to clear. It all appears to work! Test drive for over 30 min and temps stayed below 230. Not sure when the stock thermostat opens but there appeared to be some flow and heat transfer to both sides. Need to get it on the track and do some IR thermometer measurements to see if it is balanced. Pics: BTW, there is a restrictor in the stock oil line just where a previous poster stated. You can see it in my first pic on the right connection. I am OK with that...there is a balance where you want the oil to spend enough time in the cooler to be effectively cooled, plus I didn't feel like cutting and reattaching my stock line on the passenger side to remove it if I removed the one from the second set I used for the drivers side. Both sides should be almost evenly matched for flow restriction, which is key for max heat transfer with parallel systems. I'll report back my results from my next track day, which is the 12th. I know this isn't the 'end-all-be all" solution, but I think it is a good solution using stock coolers and mounting, which is what I wanted.
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09-04-2019, 10:29 AM | #37 |
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Thanks for the update. I think it is pretty awesome that you figured out the parallel setup.
Looking forward to hearing how it performs on track. I learned about a new product yesterday that I thought was interesting. It is a lower temp thermostat that replaces the stock thermostat. The nice thing is it opens at a slightly lower temp than stock, which is good for a mostly street car. I plan to order one and have it ready to go when I end up doing the oil cooler upgrade (I know, probably a waste of money but I like the ides of the oil starting to circulate a little sooner). I wouldn't recommend ordering from the manufacturers website because shipping is crazy. ECS sells the product as well and I confirmed with their customer service that it is the same product as the one on FTP's website. Manufacturers website: https://www.ftpmotorsport.com.tw/pro...l-cooler-valve ECS tuning: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ftp-moto...s/sg84006~ftp/
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09-05-2019, 09:43 PM | #38 |
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The OEM thermostat does not flow 100% it may open 100% it does not flow 100%. I have never seen any BMW oil thermostat that opens and flows 100% from the E30 to the E8x era.
All aftermarket in line thermostats open and flow 100%, or every one I have ever used. The OEM restrictor is there to keep the oil in the cooler slightly longer to cool it more. I actually removed one and cut it out just to look at how much it restricted flow rate. Excuse my late reply i have a race shop and rarely have time to get on forums these days. I will try to start a thread on out 135 race car build since it will use a few not normal pieces. |
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09-07-2019, 11:02 PM | #40 |
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Interesting observation: The design of the OFH seems straightforward but the measurements I took tonight we're puzzling:. After a 30 min drive on the street I observed the following:
Ambient:64F Dash oil temp: 225F Passenger side pipe temps at cooler:87/84F Drivers side pipe temps at cooler::104/96F Temps measured with IR thermometer. It appears that flow is favoring the new path? Strange. Isn't the internal path in the OFH two open cylinders for the flow connections? I am just surprised at the magnitude of the difference. Also, when does the stock thermostat start to open? In any case, I look forward to seeing what happens when I max it on the track next week. |
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09-09-2019, 04:10 PM | #41 | |
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Are the two temp measurements IR readings of the hoses, one inlet temp the other outlet temp? Do you think length and routing of the hoses (bends, fittings, etc) might have any play here? You do show a higher temp drop (if those are inlet and outlet temps) across the driver side cooler, I wonder why that one is more efficient. Maybe better airflow? That well wheel piece looks a lot more open than the OEM one I remember on the passenger side. |
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09-09-2019, 10:13 PM | #42 | |
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I would consider airflow the same. Hoses are identical on both sides and routed similarly. Fittings are different but IMO shouldn't be that different. If anything the Mishimoto banjos would radiate a lot more heat. I expected some difference, just not that much. I read that the OEM thermostat starts to open at 230F so this just may be trickle flow and conduction heat transfer via the fluid. |
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09-15-2019, 10:50 PM | #43 |
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So, it works! I had temps up to 270F last track day. Today the max was about 255F. On one 30 min session with one cooldown lap, dash temp was about 235F, inlet/outlet on both sides were about 160F/140F (within 5F of each other) as measured by IR thermometer.
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09-16-2019, 08:35 AM | #44 |
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Glad to see that it's working out for you!
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