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      02-14-2020, 09:56 AM   #89
JPuehl
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The past 2 weekends I've removed the bottom cover and checked for leaks and don't have any related to the turbo swap. I still have a small leak somewhere that I think is the oil pan. I mentioned the leak to my wife and she didn't like my answer of "because BMW" as to why my car is still leaking, LOL. Her car is pretty nice and doesn't leak since I replaced the OFHG.

I did a couple more pulls last night and 1 this morning and the car ran great and had good timing. The thing that concerns and frustrates me is the seemingly random times the car decides to 0 out the timing, even when ALL conditions match other times when I've had great timing.
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      02-14-2020, 10:20 AM   #90
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Originally Posted by JPuehl View Post
OMG this is so frustrating. On the way home this evening I decided to log another pull to see if I could reproduce yesterdays pull, within reason. Everything was the same today as it was yesterday when i logged the pull; weather conditions, time of day, road, process used to do the pull. The only difference is that the car had 16 miles more than yesterday. First pull I had 0* or almost no timing for most of the pull. Seeing this on the gauges during the pull, I turned around, and did the pull again, this time I had some timing, not as good as yesterday. WTF! Is the JB4 causing this inconsistency? This certainly can't be relied on when I race.

Pull 1 - 0*
https://datazap.me/u/jpuehl/2122020-...log=0&data=1-4

Pull 2 - some timing
https://datazap.me/u/jpuehl/2122020-...log=0&data=1-4
Idk I have seen some really funky data in JB4 logs. Seems to be bad data. No one ever has an answer. JB4 just seems to be buggy and there are times when you get erroneous/artifacts in the data. Hence why I don't run it.
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      02-14-2020, 10:27 AM   #91
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Originally Posted by JPuehl View Post
This is a good question as I don't really know. One issue I'm seeing/having is that I keep raising the duty bias by 5 to try to get closer to target and I'm still not there. It seems a boost controller (the JB4) should be able to get closer to the target.

Edit: I am going to check for a boost leak over the weekend and if none are found will look into replacing my boost controller based on houtan's observation.
"boost controllor" is just the way JB4 is described because of how once you move to a "BEF" all the JB4 is doing really is tricking the DME into thinking there is less boost than their should be. It's more or less just acting as a way to control boost. All the DME logic is LOAD based though (unless you move to wgdc based tuning strategy). Being off boost target by <1psi is not an issue at all and there are no indications of a boost leak. WGDC is at ~60% to achieve 17psi.
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      02-14-2020, 12:38 PM   #92
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Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
Idk I have seen some really funky data in JB4 logs. Seems to be bad data. No one ever has an answer. JB4 just seems to be buggy and there are times when you get erroneous/artifacts in the data. Hence why I don't run it.
I don't think it's a case of "bad data" (but not disregarding your feedback) as when the logs show 0 or almost 0 timing the car takes seemingly twice as long to rev from 3k to 7k than it does when the logs show good timing, and I can feel it. I was actually surprised at how quickly it rev'd the first time I tested the PS2 with good boost and timing. With no timing, it's very sluggish. I've never been happy with the support from BMS on the N54tech site.

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Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
Being off boost target by <1psi is not an issue at all and there are no indications of a boost leak. WGDC is at ~60% to achieve 17psi.
I could be "worried over nothing" if the logs look like there's no issue preventing boost from hitting the target. I suppose I could raise target to 17.5 or 18 where I think it should be at 17 now and see what happens. I do want to see what the timing looks like at 18 psi as I think I have enough octane to support 17 psi right now.


And YES I will be going to a stand alone tune hopefully in the next month or 2. Hopefully by the end of this month I'll get the flywheel installed and that should be it for the mods I have planned for the near future. I have a feeling the PS2 is going to make auto-cross a little more challenging which is why I like the JB4 where I can limit boost in the first 3 gears. When I get a tune I suppose I could flash a "stock" tune for a race weekend and flash back to the custom tune after the race, unless I can get a tuner to make 2 tunes.
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      02-16-2020, 09:24 PM   #93
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I made an adjustment to the JB4 BEF basically fattened up the low end and leaned the top end a little. I did 4 pulls and the 4th pull looked and felt really good. The trims as well as the timing look pretty good. I'm open to feedback about how my log looks and if I should make adjustments in other areas.

https://datazap.me/u/jpuehl/afr-adju...1-18-25&solo=4
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      02-18-2020, 01:46 PM   #94
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This past weekend I checked for boost leaks and found none however I did have a leak where the inlet pipe goes to the inlet of the turbo. There is only a thin o-ring that got cut/pinched when I put the PS2 in so a section of the o-ring was missing. Once that was fixed I only heard the air coming out of the PCV connection on the valve cover.

And "while I was in there" I had some radiant heat reflecting tape (not the expensive gold kind) and some exhaust wrap, so I taped and wrapped all the intake pipes from the turbo outlet to where the air filter connects to the intake pipe and so far I've noticed the temp about 10* cooler during my commute than before. I didn't wrap the silicon coupler on the inlet of the FMIC and I haven't done anything with the lower and upper CP yet as most of the heat is on the exhaust side of the engine bay, but will eventually do the same on that side as well. I still want to wrap my down pipe as well.
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      02-18-2020, 06:56 PM   #95
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that last log looks a little better. your avg ign is still in the threes though the entire pull.

Your boost target drops to 16psi at 5922 rpm for some reason, and then the next datapoint which is 2 seconds later actual boost drops, I am guessing because it is reacting to the lower target. What is weird is that next data point after 5922 rpm, which is two seconds later per the time stamp, says the rpm is 5892. How does RPM drop by 30 after two seconds? I just don't trust the JB4 to be honest. I know you are tired of hearing the same thing, but I cant help it. TWO seconds between logging points?!

I would pull the jb4, get the MHD logging capability, and see how she is running on stock boost. Or, if you can, load up the free ppk flash via winkfp that is on N54tech.
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      02-19-2020, 10:24 AM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houtan View Post
that last log looks a little better. your avg ign is still in the threes though the entire pull.

Your boost target drops to 16psi at 5922 rpm for some reason, and then the next datapoint which is 2 seconds later actual boost drops, I am guessing because it is reacting to the lower target. What is weird is that next data point after 5922 rpm, which is two seconds later per the time stamp, says the rpm is 5892. How does RPM drop by 30 after two seconds? I just don't trust the JB4 to be honest. I know you are tired of hearing the same thing, but I cant help it. TWO seconds between logging points?!

I would pull the jb4, get the MHD logging capability, and see how she is running on stock boost. Or, if you can, load up the free ppk flash via winkfp that is on N54tech.
Thanks for the feedback. As mentioned I do plan to get a real tune but don't have an unlimited budget and need to do things as the funds are available. I have the JB4 so, while it may not be the best, it's what I have to work with for now.

Not defending the JB4, but here are my responses to you points.

I read or was told that the "timestamp" value is an arbitrary number used to sort of order the events and doesn't represent an actual unit of time. If you look at the log, when I started the pull at 2979 rpm the timestamp is 9, at the end of the pull at 6793 rpm, the timestamp is 66.25. There's no way my car is so slow that it took almost 60 seconds in 3rd gear to go from 3k to 7k rpm. I could probably run faster in that amount of time for the distance covered, lol.

Concerning the rpm drop from 5922 to 5892 then back up to 6114, if you look at the pedal I lifted momentarily. The "Pedal" column shows this as does the boost, target, timing, etc., but oddly enough the "throttle" column doesn't reflect this. I believe I dodged a wet spot in the pavement as it had rained before I did my pulls.

If you look at the avg_ign it started at 3.2 and ended at 2.7, meaning there were no corrections during the pull. This log was the 4th of 4 pulls after making an adjustment to the duty-bias and during the 1st 2 pulls the JB4 was "learning" and it ran like poop. The timing corrections occurred during those pulls. I should have closed and restarted the JB4 app before making the 4th pull as the avg-ign value would have reset to 0.

The trims look good, afrs look good post spool however I'd to see more boost from 3700 to 5400, if I can hit 17 at 5500+ I should be able to at the lower rpms as well.

When I get the time I'll find an OTC flash like you mentioned and disconnect the JB4 and see how it runs. I'd like to find an "unlocked" flash so I can "play" with it until I get a real tune.
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      02-19-2020, 11:19 AM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPuehl View Post
Thanks for the feedback. As mentioned I do plan to get a real tune but don't have an unlimited budget and need to do things as the funds are available. I have the JB4 so, while it may not be the best, it's what I have to work with for now.
You help me install a PS2 kit on my car, I'll get you everything you need for MHD? Sounds like a solid trade both ways right?
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      02-19-2020, 11:56 AM   #98
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You help me install a PS2 kit on my car, I'll get you everything you need for MHD? Sounds like a solid trade both ways right?
It does, if you include the flight down to SFO, or San Jose would be better and back, lol. My wife's son lives in San Jose so I might have a place to stay. When does Great America/Six Flags open? lol

Honestly the PS2 install wasn't that bad, just time consuming. I was a little intimated by it in the beginning and put it off for a couple weeks but once I started it, it wasn't that bad. I took some time off work because my wife broke her back her the Thanksgiving weekend so I couldn't take more time off work to get it done working on it 3 or 4 days in a row.
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      02-19-2020, 02:40 PM   #99
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Totally get the budget issue. I definitely don't want to come across as not being mindful on budget constraints. I have the same issues. I think it took me three years to finally buy a flywheel lol.

Since your timing corrections are zero, I definitely wouldn't bother removing the JB4 for the time being. I made the recommendation to remove it based on the belief that the timing corrections were still there. Looks like she is running good where she is at.
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      02-19-2020, 03:26 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houtan View Post
Totally get the budget issue. I definitely don't want to come across as not being mindful on budget constraints. I have the same issues. I think it took me three years to finally buy a flywheel lol.

Since your timing corrections are zero, I definitely wouldn't bother removing the JB4 for the time being. I made the recommendation to remove it based on the belief that the timing corrections were still there. Looks like she is running good where she is at.
Understood. Took you 3 years to get the flywheel and me about 3 days once I read up on it, lol, but I had the money in my car fund. Since the BOOSTane seems to be working I'm trying to slowly dump up the boost until I get too many timing corrections. I just have to remember to make a change and do 3 pulls for the JB4 to "learn" THEN look at the logs. I was getting frustrated a short time ago thinking I would make a change and the first log afterwards should reflect the change and I was just getting all kinds of timing corrections and STFTs maxing out.
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      02-20-2020, 10:40 PM   #101
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Here's another log. Again I forgot to reset the avgign value but for the most part timing is really good, seems to be having a problem between 5000 - 5500 rpm reaching target boost. Trims look good, AFR looks good. It feels like it's missing on the top end however the log doesn't reflect it and I'm not getting any codes. Anyone have any clubes what could be going on?

https://datazap.me/u/jpuehl/log-1582...log=0&data=1-4
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      02-25-2020, 01:19 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houtan View Post
Totally get the budget issue. I definitely don't want to come across as not being mindful on budget constraints. I have the same issues. I think it took me three years to finally buy a flywheel lol.

Since your timing corrections are zero, I definitely wouldn't bother removing the JB4 for the time being. I made the recommendation to remove it based on the belief that the timing corrections were still there. Looks like she is running good where she is at.
I have the flywheel swap scheduled for 3/7/2020 and after that I'll be working towards a better/real/serious tune. I can really feel the misfires >=6200 rpm at 17 and above psi. I dropped boost to 16 starting at 6k rpm and that seems to have taken care of the misfires. The misfires were weird because I could hear and feel them but I didn't always get misfire codes. The logs never showed any issues with timing, fueling, boost, it's like the misfires weren't happening.
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      02-25-2020, 02:55 PM   #103
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What is your fuel pump situation?
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      02-25-2020, 03:52 PM   #104
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What is your fuel pump situation?
The STFTs look decent and the LP & HP fuel pumps seem fine as well. Octane is about 98, so that shouldn't be a problem. Houtan pointed out this is a problem with the heavy DCT flywheel, which I'll find out for myself soon.
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      03-10-2020, 01:49 PM   #105
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Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
IDK how well proven it really is that the DCT flywheel is an issue. At least not ones that are still functioning normally (DMFW do fail). Run a custom map 6 at 20psi and see if you get misfires? No reason not to start a custom tune... if you start getting misfires at high rpm then you know what to look at already. Take care of it and go back to tuning if the issue crops up? That's what I would do, personally. No reason to throw parts at the car if not needed.
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It is 100% known the stock flywheel will cause misfires. Happens on the n54 335is and N55 135i. No reason to debate that. We went in circles for more than 3 years trying to blindly figure that out. It is the most frustrating thing to deal with when you are putting 490whp to the ground and the entire car just dies into limp mode for no reason.
This past Friday, 3/6, I had the M4 flywheel installed and while I haven't been driving the car a lot, due to rain and a busy work schedule, I wanted to provide my observation about this issue.

After the PS2 install and before the M4 flywheel, if I was pushing 17+ psi above 6k rpm, my car would misfire and sometimes threw codes and went into limp mode as Houtan mentioned. Since the flywheel swap I haven't had misfires where I used to. This was with only the flywheel, the BEF was the same and I only increased the duty-bias on map 6 to raise the boost.
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