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10-05-2018, 03:11 PM | #2 |
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I'd use the terminals in the engine bay. Too much bad things can happen when moving battery terminals. I only do that when it's a must - like changing the battery.
You can set the charger on the intake manifold and route the power wire thru the cowl area. Just watch for places it could get cut when closing the hood. I'd let the engine cool down before placing the charger in the engine compartment.
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jaye9441017.00 |
10-05-2018, 03:23 PM | #3 | |
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10-05-2018, 03:34 PM | #4 |
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I do #1, connect under the hood. It's convenient for a variety of reasons as you already know. It's such a low power device connected to something designed to jump start the car I can't think of any reason it'd possibly be a bad idea. I do connect mine there before plugging it in however, to be sure there are no sparks, even though i know I don't have fuel leaking all over the engine.
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10-05-2018, 04:29 PM | #6 |
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There is a large terminal just next to the coolant expansion that is better for the charger's ground cable. Makes it easier to close the hood.
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11-25-2018, 05:53 PM | #8 |
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Use a quality "Smart charger" from BMW, Deltran, C-tek etc. Connect only under the hood using the provided connections as shown in your Owner's Manual. Use your tender anytime the car won't be driven for more than a week and you'll never have a battery problem. Mine is connected continuously for 5 months during winter storage and the battery was still going strong when preventively replaced after 8 years.
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12-14-2018, 07:54 AM | #9 |
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Is anyone using permanent mounting of ring terminals instead of the alligator clips? I was hoping to permanently mount it either under the hood or in the trunk and just run the connector plug up through the cowl or somewhere in the trunk for a quick connect and disconnect purposes.
I would prefer to run it under the hood and use the cowl so I am not running a cord into the trunk but the positive post does not have any accommodations for a permanent terminal. I thought about putting a bolt through it to mount a ring but was hoping for feedback first. Any help would be appreciated. |
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12-14-2018, 08:45 AM | #10 | |
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12-14-2018, 12:37 PM | #12 |
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How did you get the o-ring on the positive charge point? i see a black plastic cover - does it just snap off?
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12-27-2018, 08:34 PM | #14 | |
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I connect to the red post and neg post in the engine bay. Connect to posts, plug it in, wait a few hours. I use a $25 Black & Decker I got at Home Depot. Works great.
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02-22-2020, 12:46 PM | #15 |
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Where did you get that cover/plug for the clip going up the hood? I want to mount mine permanently like this but don’t want water/dirt getting on the clip
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02-22-2020, 11:42 PM | #16 |
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The cover for the plug was from the original cable... I reused it by cutting it off to use it on the end of the extension cable, which is why there's a tie wrap on the end.
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11-27-2022, 04:53 PM | #17 |
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CTEK Battery Charger/Tender Install
Sadly, I don't drive my car much these days due to a disability, and the battery was always low/discharged, even though I didn't activate the alarm when parked in the garage. So, after reviewing a few videos online...
I just did a permanent CTEK MXS 5.0 battery charger/tender install on my 2017 M240i. The MXS 5.0 is the go-to model for decent functionality w/o breaking the bank (any lower model and you don't get temperature sensing adjustment and, in some cases, merely tender w/o full charging capability). Sorry no pics, but I will describe what I did... You can use the wires with the clips (but I wanted a neater, more permanent solution, so use the o-ring wires). You want to install the +ve o-ring wire to the +ve battery terminal under the hood (no, never attach directly to the battery in the trunk, as it could fry sensitive electronics!). I was lucky that my terminal has a removable T-bolt, otherwise you'll have to find another way to make the connection. Then find somewhere nearby to attach the -ve 0-ring (I resorted to sliding the damn thing underneath a small bracket that bends over the edge of the engine body, and may need to solder it eventually, but any connection attached to the body will work). Also, luckily I had a small crease/crevice with which to tuck the -ve o-ring wire, so that it doesn't infringe with the plastic hood bonnet (otherwise you might have contact when closing the hood). The wires all get covered with 10mm black auto flex tubing (optional and merely for cosmetic reasons). The lead wire gets fished through to the windshield wiper area (so you can close the hood w/o issue). You then simply tie-in from there to the unit, which gets plugged into a power outlet. I purchased the CTEK extension wire but found I didn't need it. I intend to buy the CTEK plastic holder, so I can mount the unit on the garage wall, and avoid the need for this extension wire or any extension cords. The total cost for the unit and materials was about $175-$200 CAD. This was a time consuming process simply because it was difficult to locate a suitable body/ground connection point, otherwise you can do it in 15 min. She works like a charm with the hood down, and alarm on! Just remember to lift up the driver's windshield wiper to remind you to unplug the damn thing before you drive off! Any questions; fire away. |
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