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09-15-2020, 11:58 AM | #1 |
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New Front Rotors
Hey all,
Have been getting a shimmy stopping at highway speeds. Figured I warped my rotors after a few very aggressive driving sessions as I had the shimmy ever since. Pads have plenty of meat. My trusted BMW mechanic (also has a 1) let me know my front rotors are indeed warped. I've been wanting to go drilled/slotted for a while now, maybe this will give me the initiative. What are the best options for drilled and slotted rotors on the 1? I've heard that typcially aftermarket rotors are poor quality compared to OEM. Does BMW make drilled and slotted rotors for the 1? What pads do y'all recommend as well? I've heard OEM is always the best again but wanted to get your oppinions. Thanks! |
09-15-2020, 03:58 PM | #2 |
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The "Performance" rotors are drilled and slotted, just pricy, https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...4116786392~kt/
Personally I'm using R1 Concept slotted rotors and EBC redstuff pads. BTW, there is a very recent thread about rotors and pads too, might want to take a look at that. |
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09-15-2020, 10:05 PM | #3 |
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Shameful plug. I have a set of RB 2pc irons I took off when I did my rebuild. Only had about 10k miles DD on them. PM me if interested.
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09-16-2020, 09:13 AM | #4 |
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I'm running Zimmermann "performance" on the fronts right now. They are drilled and slotted, but no aluminum hat like the BMW ones. I have rears ready to go in after another few thousand miles. Rears are dimpled and slotted.
Much cheaper than BMW for the same look. Made in Germany and lifetime warranty from FCP. No complaints so far, matched with Ferodo DS2500. Stops better than stock and less noisy too.
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09-18-2020, 07:07 PM | #5 |
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Your rotors aren't actually warped, it's just uneven pad material deposits. New rotors are the solution, but your old rotors weren't the problem. So drilled and slotted rotors won't prevent it from happening again...In fact, drilled are more likely to contribute to your problems.
Functionally blanks are as good as anything. While you didn't overheat the rotors, you might have overheated the pads, so maybe consider higher performance pads while you're at it. Just make sure the pads are properly bedded, give your rotors as much driving time as you can to cool, and don't come to a complete stop (let alone set the e-brake) on hot rotors.
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Last edited by Driven5; 09-20-2020 at 01:28 AM.. |
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12-23-2020, 11:38 PM | #6 |
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I've had this pad deposit issue on nearly every car, and most BMWs, that I have owned. On my current 128i, I did not have any issues with the drilled/slotted rotors from the BMW performance brake kit, so I went with similar replacements from ECS, made by Stop Tech. While I respect that the drilled/slotted won't be suitable for track use, I still don't have any pad deposit issues, which is worth the extra cost to me!
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12-24-2020, 09:50 AM | #7 |
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As others have suggested, your rotors *probably* aren't warped. It's possible, but very rare. Deposits, on the other hand, are extremely common. I was getting brake shimmy more times than I can remember. This car is actually one of the worst I've ever had for deposits. I usually made it go away by performing a bedding procedure, but it's annoying. That's one of the main reasons I upgraded to the performance brakes. The pads and rotors are much larger and able to distribute the heat better so I'm not cooking the pad material onto the rotor.
If you're not doing hard track days, there's probably nothing wrong with a drilled/slotted rotor. The M Performance rotors are a two piece design, and I think a pretty good one because the aluminum hat is riveted to the disc. Rivets are lighter than hardware and the rotors are cheaper than something like the ECS 2-piece set. You can't change out the disc, but how many people on non-track cars do that anyway? See my old rotor below. I'm very mindful when I brake not to get deposits. After a hard stop from 60+ I take my foot off the brakes and use the parking brake to hold me. Still...
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03-18-2021, 10:24 AM | #8 |
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I have the same shimmy issue. If it is deposits, is there a leveling / cleaning procedure? If so, will a standard brake shop be able to do it? I see the rated thickness of the front rotor is 24mm. Is there a minimum thickness?
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03-18-2021, 10:40 AM | #9 |
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Look up a brake pad bed-in procedure. There are a variety but they are similar, basically find a safe open road and do a couple rapid slow-downs (but not full stops) from high speed. Think of it as cleaning the surfaces.
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03-18-2021, 12:59 PM | #10 | |
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Quote:
Try the bed in procedure as suggested. Get them really hot, but be careful to never come to a full stop with the brakes applied. |
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03-22-2021, 08:22 AM | #11 |
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Thanks for that tip. Every car has its anomalies, and this is good to know. I would have been down the road to a brake job. Worked like a charm, even though I had to get out at 4:00 AM to do it safely!
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03-22-2021, 08:56 AM | #12 | |
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Quote:
In the future a couple things to remember - 1) Try not to slow to a stop from a high speed and just sit there, like the end of a long exit ramp or a country highway with a light. When it happens, give yourself a couple small rolls forward until the light changes so the pads aren't just sitting in one spot. 2) Be sure to occasionally do some decent braking, especially if you tend to have a lot of stop & go traffic where you are barely touching the brakes. They can glaze over this way as well if you are doing grandma driving. And now and then when the opportunity presents itself give yourself a good decent stop but then keep going, kinda like the bed-in but maybe just a single shot at it not a repeated version. Well it's stuff I do and I stopped having the issue, but certainly would have it on occasion in the past. |
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