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03-06-2017, 06:42 PM | #23 |
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With aftermarket DCT fluid you going to have shifting issues even after resetting the adaptations. Stick to pentosin. I haven't tried motul yet but would like to hear more on any others who have experience with it.
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03-17-2017, 05:19 AM | #24 |
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About a month ago i replaced my fluid, pan filter and high pressure filter (side filter) and really have had no issues. Clutch engagement became a bit more aggresive, so did the shifts when Sports and TCS off.
I have a '12 135i with 67k miles and i used Liqui Moly 8100 DCT fluid. I also use Liqui Moly for all my fluids actually and so far i've had nothing but good and better. My only advice would be to get both filters OES (not necessarily OEM) meaning, try for original Getrag parts. That's just preference and also my buddy went with a Vaico high pressure filter and his DCT clunked every gear until he changed it for an original Getrag part. The other thing i would look out for is the fill process. You MUST make sure that the fluid temp does not go above 40c or else it could start coming out of your refill hole making you believe the system is full. With a cool car, start you engine and idle at 2k rpm for 2 mins. (You must do this quickly as trans heats up fast) now let the car idle by it self and place it on the "N" (neutral) position (you must leave the car running, hence why its gotta be done fast) open refill plug and add until you see fluid come out. Put the refill plug back, again idle at 2k rpm... repeat process. Again the important things here are, that the fluid is below 40c and that vehicle is ON and in Neutral when adding to finish the fill |
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03-29-2017, 08:47 AM | #25 | |
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Quick question, where did you get the part where you say to put the transmission in neutral? Per the bmw instructions, it never says to take the transmission out of park. http://www.m3post.com/forums/attachm...7&d=1258259815 The instructions linked above is from 2008 though. Do you have a newer version of the instructions? |
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05-31-2017, 03:21 PM | #26 | |
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07-11-2018, 01:20 PM | #27 |
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Sory tu bump this old thread but perhaps there is some update in this topic
Will do the dct service, gonna change all the filters and the fluid (In a BMW dealer) The problem is im not from US so the pentosil cost me $78 per liter (have to import it) I only get the Motul Multi Dctf for $15 per liter. In 9,5 liters it made the difference Did someone try the Motul or have any comments about it?
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05-26-2019, 09:45 PM | #28 |
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So just wondering if others have changed their DCT fluid? Reading through a few threads it sounds like when a few people have changed theirs the filters have looked clean & fluid not dirty.
I'm usually of the opinion that no fluid is "lifetime" but I'm also not a fan of doing maintenance before it's needed.
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05-26-2019, 11:03 PM | #29 | |
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"We would agree with you that a lifetime oil may not exist -- except for maybe if the oil just sits and doesn't experience much/any use. We've tested a few dozen samples from similar BMW dual clutch transmissions, and the average oil change interval is about 52,000 miles. You ran this fluid much longer than that, with hard track use, yet the wear metals are all below average levels. If that's not a good sign of healthy wear, we don't know what is. No coolant, water, or insolubles were found in this sample and the viscosity was correct. Perfect report!" And this is after 2 years of tracking the car (about 10 track days). If yours is a DD, I think 100K is a reasonable milestone to change it, but you could probably push it to 150K given what I've read and what is in my own report.
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05-27-2019, 05:43 AM | #30 | |||
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It sounds like most don't show much wear, contamination, dirt, or breakdown of the fluid - even for track use. My DD duties are pretty easy on it to be honest. Based on the reports you may be right about long interval DCT changes being ok. I'm thinking about taking a sample & sending it in for analysis. I need to take a look at the DIY to see how hard it is it to get to the plug to pull a sample. Or just doing a simple drain & fill. I know That doesn't get all the fluid out doing it but it may be all that is needed. Link to the thread: https://www.m3post.com/forums/showth...817&page=2 Quote:
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05-27-2019, 07:30 AM | #31 |
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Making sure the o-rings to the cooler or other gaskets aren't leaking is more of a concern than the fluid it self. and yet those rubber bits tend to start letting seeps happen eventually. Mine are showing signs of some leakage, so it's about time to replace them and do the fluid, I expect the fluid analysis to show it is a very robust fluid, probably best left untouched for very very long intervals.
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05-29-2019, 11:33 AM | #32 | |
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There was some visible scorching on some of the clutch faces and some amount of metal filings stuck to a few parts as well. It's hard to say whether a fluid change would have fixed my problems now, but regardless, this is the route I took. The shop used OE Pentosin fluid and reset the adaptations. After breaking the new clutches in for about 1000 miles, it shifts much smoother and reacts better than I can remember. I still plan to update the TCU with the newest 'is transmission flash in the future for even better performance but I'm happy for now. |
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