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07-24-2019, 11:18 AM | #89 |
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Those rear pads are so easy to remove. My back brake was squeaking like crazy, so I just pulled the pads out and lubricated the shims and pins with brake grease. They are totally silent now!
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02-11-2020, 06:31 AM | #90 |
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I just ordered stoptech's front replacement kit which includes slotted rotors, pads and SS brake lines and was wondering if anyone has done brake lines at the same time as rotors and pads. Can't find a DIY for the whole thing anywhere.
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02-24-2020, 10:56 AM | #91 |
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I may need to do a full brake disc/pad replacement this summer. Has anyone used FCPEuro's Zimmermann/Akebano kit?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...116854998ktfr5
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2012 BMW 128i 6MT Deep Sea Blue Metallic
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02-24-2020, 10:52 PM | #92 | |
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02-24-2020, 11:49 PM | #93 | |
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Absolutely no dust or noise.
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E82 - BMWP Springs / Koni Yellows / M front control arms / Adjustable front endlinks / M rear guide rods / Whiteline Poly RSFB
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02-25-2020, 04:27 PM | #94 | ||
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02-25-2020, 10:49 PM | #95 | |
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That happened to my E36 at around 50k-60k miles, if I recall.
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02-26-2020, 09:24 AM | #96 |
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You still have the E36, right?
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02-26-2020, 10:40 PM | #97 |
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Nope, traded it in to get the E82.
I could've kept it as my daily beater, but I refrained. I could've sold it to my brother, but he didn't want it at the time... Now he regrets it.
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05-23-2020, 05:11 PM | #98 |
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Has anybody else gotten one of the T40 bolts stuck and stripped at the same time? I now know that you don't have to remove them when doing pads but I didn't think about it at the time and just took them all out. Three of them came out fine but the last one got stuck about halfway out and so I cranked harder and it felt like it was coming a little bit but that was just the head stripping. So now I have a bolt that is partially threaded out and completely rounded on the head. Any ideas on how to get it out? it almost feels like it's cross-threaded and that's why it got stuck halfway out. Not sure what my options are at this point. I don't even think an extractor would work because of how stuck it is. Fun stuff.
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08-10-2020, 09:48 PM | #100 |
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Lots of good info in this thread! Will share my experience replacing front rotors and pads, Ferodo DS2500.
I removed the calipers using the 18mm carrier/bracket bolts on the inside of the caliper per newtis.info repair manual and a couple of posts in this thread. Used a breaker bar to loosen the bolts and then unscrew by hand. Torqued it back up to 81 ft-lbs (110 Nm) when re-installing. No need to touch the guide pins at all. Tried swapping the OEM shims over but could not squeeze the new pads in the caliper with the shims on. I installed without the shims, hopefully won't get a clunk noise when switching directions. The backing plate of the Ferodo is almost exactly the same size as OEM pads with shims though. See pics. Ferodos also have a notch where the brake wear sensor should go, but there is no real way to clip it on. So I just taped the new sensor back on itself and out of the way. |
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09-16-2020, 04:35 PM | #101 | |
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Did the job again today. However, I didn't know what grease to use on the brake pad alignment pins or on the surfaces that they slide on. (I didn't think of using anything on the pistons or surface the pistons would press on but I did see some videos of people doing that) Unfortunately, people mention, "Oh, use some high temp grease" but then that suggestion isn't very helpful since there are so many variants (I think I have like 3 kinds already!). I did apply the absolutely smallest amount of some Permatex "Anti-seize lubricant" ("Advanced Formula" with an orange highlight over the text) that I've had for years and years... but only on the left side as a test to compare dry vs minor amounts of that anti-seize. The anti-seize that I have is a silvery metallic color - and doesn't say anything about being copper based. Tried looking on the bottle and online - but no mention of copper... no mention of what is in it, period. Anyway, I haven't gone out and bedded in the brakes yet or done anything. I do know though that my rotors probably need to be replaced. It's hard to get an accurate reading on the thickness because there's an edge to the rotors that stays higher than the rest of the surface of the rotor. Therefore, I can't get an accurate reading when using typical calipers. I'd need some of those calipers they use to measure heads or something and then measure later. Here's the one I used: https://www.midwesttechnology.com/pe...ricant-1-2-pt/ Here's what I think I probably should have used if I had it: https://www.permatex.com/products/lu...s-lubricant-2/ "Permatex® Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant" I'm not sure - lots of conflicting advice online and many people getting things mixed up. I really just wanted to lubricate the sliding areas of the brake pads because I know those can squeal. OH and my brake sensor DID NOT go off. My brakes were almost completely down to the metal plates but no sensor warning. They were making lots of grinding and squealing noises as time was going on. Surprised there was no warning from the sensor... I didn't replace the sensor - will need to order one and replace it. Maybe I won't go with the same supplier as before. Yeesh. |
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09-23-2020, 02:26 AM | #102 |
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paper work
Hey guys! I am a student and recently I ordered a paper work on this site extra paper worksand I liked it.
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09-23-2020, 08:20 AM | #103 | |
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09-26-2020, 01:49 AM | #104 |
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Definitely need some anti-brake squealing material on some surfaces. Brakes are squealing pretty often - especially the side that I didn't apply any anti-seize on.
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07-10-2023, 04:15 AM | #105 |
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There is no need to remove the four T-40 pins to change the gasket. Just some PBlaster. I did and everything went well
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