|
|
|
06-14-2020, 07:07 AM | #1 |
New Member
3
Rep 15
Posts |
DIY Request: Shift Shaft Seal
Went for an inspection at the dealer to find out work my car needs and they noticed a leak from the Shift Shaft Seal. It's like a small seal the size of a quarter and it appears you have to remove the flex pipe to get to it. Has anyone done this job. I've search through the forums and haven't found a DIY.
|
06-29-2020, 04:40 PM | #2 |
Lieutenant
456
Rep 493
Posts
Drives: 11 128i 6MT Sport
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Rock Hill, SC
|
Here's the pelican write up for the E90. Should be extremely similar, I know on my 128 there's enough room to get in there without dropping the exhaust or driveshaft. It's cramped, but doable.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec...eplacement.htm Common practice on older BMWs was to install a new seal on top of the old one, you can just hammer the new on one with the 15mm socket and it will push the old one deeper in the bore. But you can only do this one time, I did it on my E36 and Z3 and it never leaked again, has anyone done this on the E8x/E9x?
__________________
11 128i slicktop
13 WK2 19 Alltrack S |
Appreciate
1
Guihan6.00 |
06-29-2020, 09:48 PM | #3 |
New Member
14
Rep 29
Posts |
I just did mine. Tried to get the old one out and finally gave up and just drove in the new one. Make sure you put it in the correct orientation. I put one in backwards and it leaked. Had to pull it and put in a new one.
Getting just the right small screwdriver to lever it out was key. The Pelican article is spot on. Disconnect the drive shaft to get better access. It is a good time to rebuild the shift linkage. |
Appreciate
0
|
11-25-2020, 07:25 AM | #4 |
Lieutenant
456
Rep 493
Posts
Drives: 11 128i 6MT Sport
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Rock Hill, SC
|
I had to tackle this issue recently on my 128i. I had a small leak from the shift shaft seal that got bigger in recent weeks. I tried to go under there and just stack a second seal on top of the old one but it ended up not stopping my leak.
This time, I ordered a new giubo and the appropriate hardware to take everything apart and do it correctly. If you're planning on doing this here's what needs to be removed: 1) The plastic under body panels have to come off 2) Rear under body brace (Torx T50 needed) 3) Exhaust midpipe 4) Driveshaft tunnel heat shield (definitely order some new body nuts 07146949380, I needed 3 new ones, I think there were 5 total that I removed to get the heat shield off) 5) Disconnect drive shaft at transmission out put flange, 18mm nut and bolt head (new giubo nuts are recommended) and support the driveshaft. Now is also a good time to inspect or replace the center support bearing. 6) Remove the clips for the shift selector rod and slide it out of the shift lever and rod end joint. 7) Remove rod end joint from transmission shift shaft (This is a pain, use a screw driver to pry the circlip and push it forward. If the sponge in the rod end joint is old it makes it easier to get the pin out, otherwise you need to push forward on the rod end joint and use a pick or something small to push the pin out. At this point you're ready to remove the old seal. Through searching for good methods to remove the seal I came across the tool that BMW uses: 83302219637, it was $35 on FCP and worked like a charm, I highly recommend it. To use it: I removed the small screw, pressed the tool hard into the new seal and spun it clockwise, it took a few tries, but once it cut into the seal it pulled in and tightened against the metal of the seal. Then, thread in the small screw and it pulls the old seal right out. The best part is that I was able to use this to get out both old seals, the tool is a small enough diameter that it can get into the transmission recess. I did measure the depth of the shift shaft bore while I had it all apart. There is essentially enough room in there to stack two shift seals before you run out of room. In my case, the first seal that was the original leak was pretty rough and I don't think it allowed the outer seal to actually seat correctly.
__________________
11 128i slicktop
13 WK2 19 Alltrack S |
03-11-2024, 08:21 AM | #5 |
Lieutenant
456
Rep 493
Posts
Drives: 11 128i 6MT Sport
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Rock Hill, SC
|
As a follow up to my post above from 2020, my shift shaft seal started leaking again over the winter. I was very disappointed to see it leaking again so soon. I used an Elring seal back in 2020, this time around I went with a Corteco.
I finally got a chance to swap it out yesterday and I was able to use the BMW tool without removing the exhaust or driveshaft. It's a tight space to work in but everything fits. When using the BMW extractor tool, it's a lot easier to get it started on the seal if you can use a pick or something to tear the old seal away from the shaft. This provides some space where the extractor can start to bite into the seal. I had removed the screw from the tool so that I could use a 1/4" ratchet and 13mm socket to drive the tool into the seal and once it was in far enough I reinstalled the screw and pulled it out easily.
__________________
11 128i slicktop
13 WK2 19 Alltrack S |
Appreciate
1
Brian_21.00 |
04-24-2024, 10:12 AM | #6 |
Major
849
Rep 1,021
Posts |
I'll need to do this eventually, but I plan to install two new seals, assuming I can get the old one out. I've heard there's a sizeable risk of one leaking, even after you replace it. I figure it just makes sense to hammer two new seals in there.
__________________
Official BMWP Whore - BMWP suspension kit w/ M3 arms, BMWP big brake kit, BMWP intake w/Mishimoto tube, BMWP exhaust, BMWP carbon strut brace, BMWP short shifter, and BMWP carbon spoiler. OZ Leggera HLT w/ 245 square setup.
|
Appreciate
0
|
Post Reply |
Bookmarks |
|
|