|
|
|
08-18-2009, 10:47 PM | #89 |
Second Lieutenant
13
Rep 231
Posts |
Open track days? The owner of my shop just bought a acre of flawless concrete and he wants to start drifting his STI (one to many Ken Block videos) after I get a feel for it on this controlled surface I doubt I'll ever drift on a track around here. After all Nurenburgring is for cornering not sliding Thanks for the advice.
|
Appreciate
0
|
08-20-2009, 01:16 AM | #90 |
My ride: bimmergirl84
22
Rep 302
Posts |
|
Appreciate
0
|
08-28-2009, 04:36 AM | #91 |
Second Lieutenant
38
Rep 234
Posts |
Hi Jeff,
Thanks for this thread! Here are some questions for you I have a 135i on which I already installed the Quaife LSD. Rest of the car is stock on a chassis perspective. I'm not suffering any particular understeer at the moment, even if the improved grip provided by the Quaife has stressed it a bit. So the chassis appears to me kind of neutral at the moment. Note that this is my day to day car and I don't plan to go on track regularly. It may happen, though, but it would only be for fun, not to do the best lap time. I live in Switzerland, it rains often and I drive around 6 weeks a year on snow. Next week, my mechanic will install a Bilstein PSS set on the car (I'm not happy at all with the rebond on the stock supensions). I will ask him to lower the car around 1". I don't really want to go for more as I'd like to keep the car practical to use. Here are my questions: - Considering this (especially the lowering), do you think I'll need camber plates to get the original front camber setup, or is it possible to adjust it accordingly without? Again, I will not run -2° as I use the car everyday, so just wondering how far it is possible to adjust front camber without going for Camber plates. If they are really needed, I need to order them and make them installed at the same time, it would save labor. - To make the front a bit more reactive, do you recommend toe modification or anything else? - Generally, and again considering what I plan to do with my car, what would be your recommendation for my wheels alignment? - Any other thoughs are more than welcome! Thank you very much in advance for your time PS: the video above has been ma referenced one over years. I learned how I could drive my 911 just looking at it hundred times. It's not really efficient to be fast, but at least it shows how that particular chassis reacts and it gave me some clues to be faster with mine when I used to go on tracks.
__________________
2018 M550i Sepia-Violet
|
Appreciate
0
|
08-30-2009, 02:48 AM | #94 |
Second Lieutenant
38
Rep 234
Posts |
Hi guys,
Thank you for these comments. I'll let you know exactly how much the car is lowered. I went for the PSS (B14) not the PSS10 (B16) ;-) Cheers.
__________________
2018 M550i Sepia-Violet
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-04-2009, 06:18 PM | #95 |
Private First Class
16
Rep 189
Posts |
Jeff, it's me again. Need another round of advice. I am going to buy coilovers. 95% sure I'm going with AST 5100's. I need help with spring rates. To recap, below are my current suspension mods and setup:
1) Vorshlag camber plates 2) M3 control arms --I can get -3.2 to -3.6 neg camber. More obviously when the car is lowered on coilovers 3) UUC 2-position front sway - 27mm. Currently set at soft setting. 4) 255 toyo r888 tires - square setup This setup still has a little understeer, but it is pretty neutral. Certainly not tail happy. I am hovering around 450f and 600r. What do you think? Philip |
Appreciate
0
|
09-04-2009, 11:08 PM | #96 |
Registered
0
Rep 2
Posts |
Sifting through everything
Jeff,
First off thanks for the replies, it allows us to all to keep our day jobs. I have a relatively new stock 135i and I have done a few months of autocross. I love this car on and off the track but I think everyone here agrees its a few ticks away from perfect. Ive been sifting through the forums and hoped you could provide some answers; I apologize if these are somewhat redundant. My goals in order of precedence: -Reduce the understeer - for track and daily use, and to be able to participate in some drifting events. Dont want it out of control flailing all over the place. -Reduce the body roll -Looking to increase track abilities but maintain some practicality. To put numbers on it, maybe a 35% increase in track abilities. -Stay within a $2000 budget (realize this might be unrealistic) Other considerations: -Dont want to lower the car, but if I have to I dont want it lower than .75" to 1.0" -Id like mods that I can do myself, relatively mech guy, dont have a degree mech engineering The plan I was thinking: -Buy KW coilovers, I was thinking the V1s due to balance of value and daily driving. I know yall all recommend V2 or V3s. For my objectives what do you recommend? -New tires as soon as these RFTs are done. Want tires that again will give some track increase but wont last a few months on daily driving. I have no idea what to go with here, have heard everything under the sun. -Maybe a front sway bar - looking for a suggestion on brand. -Unrelated but, also going to throw a SSK on there, I had a UUC in a 335i and I think Im going to try a B&M. Thats all I was thinking. Thanks for any insight, Tom |
Appreciate
0
|
09-05-2009, 12:42 AM | #97 | |
My ride: bimmergirl84
22
Rep 302
Posts |
Quote:
Sounds like you have an awesome setup! This will be a very fast car. I'm sure you will love it when it is all done. Ok, as for spring rates... Considering your setup is very similar to what Berk Technology (135i) and HP Autowerks (335i) are running, I would recommend going with 450lb/in F and 800lb/in R. This puts your wheel rates at 415lb/in F and 253lb/in R. Berk and HP are at 400F/800R springs, and the cars are a little too loose. They both need a bit more front spring rate. That is why I suggest 450F; both Berk and HP Autowerks are going to try 450F next to help with the oversteer. 400F/800R results in a very neutral car: perfect for drifting, but to go fast it needs a little more front spring. Also, I sure would think the ideal setting for that front bar would be the 'stiff' setting. Strut-type front suspensions usually like a lot of bar. I'd like to see some pictures of your ride height after you get the coilovers on |
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-05-2009, 12:49 AM | #98 | |
My ride: bimmergirl84
22
Rep 302
Posts |
Quote:
- For front toe on a street car, I recommend just a tiny bit of toe-out (also, this is what the factory recommends). Like, 1/16" total (so, 1/32" on each side). I also suggest setting it to the max caster you can get. This really helps with overall steering feel, gives it a nice "on-center" feel. Also helps with U-turns on the street. - My other advice: Under compression, the rear toes out. So, I suggest running more rear toe-in to compensate. But, since yours is mainly a street car, I'd keep it down to about 1/8" total rear toe in (1/16" each side) Hope that helps! Sorry for taking so long to reply... |
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-05-2009, 01:20 AM | #99 | ||||||
My ride: bimmergirl84
22
Rep 302
Posts |
Quote:
I am just going to pick apart your questions one-by-one. Here goes: Quote:
The V2's are rebound adjustable, which is nice because rebound has more of an affect on the balance of the car than compression does. Most other single-adjustable coilover kits are compression-adjustable, which is silly IMO. Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Ok Tom, good luck, hope that helps. Keep us all updated with what you do |
||||||
Appreciate
0
|
09-05-2009, 02:43 PM | #100 |
Registered
0
Rep 2
Posts |
Thanks - a few follow ups
Jeff, thanks again for the timely response:
Im pretty much going to take all of your recommendations by the letter. I think I hear you when you say if I get the KW V2 and the camber plates, AND tires, I dont need to mess with the sway bar. Minimal cost/benefit ration. I think I wont buy the bar. For the camber plates - any brand recommendations and a good place to buy them online? I googled it and cant find much. Hear you about the SSK but I dont know how much effect a new kit will have on the drivetrain/tranny over the long run. The way these cars are made, Id say minimal. I dont have too many issues with my stock one, but the throws are longer and looser than they need to be. I put a UUC on my 335i and it completed the feel - such a well engineered power train with a poor mechanical feel on the shifter. Any thoughts on cold air intakes - I love these things on NA cars for the sound, feel, and minimal perf gains. Thanks, Tom |
Appreciate
0
|
09-06-2009, 12:07 PM | #101 | |
Second Lieutenant
38
Rep 234
Posts |
Quote:
The Bilstein have been installed on the car. I don't exactly know the lowering, but it seems to be a bit more than what I expected. Anyway, my mechanic made an basic alignment and asked me to run with the car for something like 1500 miles, because the car is expected to lower again more. I already did 400 miles and front has lost again 1/4". He'll then make an final alignment, end of september, just before my first track day with the car. At the moment, because of the lowering, front has around -1° of camber and rear has much more. Front toe has been corrected, as you suggest, to the original factory values. Again, because on the lowering, rear has more toe in, but this has not been modified, since the car seems to be well balanced with that setup, and it saves labor (anyway the car will lower again and everything will have to be reviewed). -2° on front seems huge to me, especially if you stay with factory toe out. It will certainly reduce understeer, but it will reduce a lot tires life, no? Thank you for the suggestion on caster, will try that BTW, bilstein PSS make a huge difference to the standard suspensions. I am very happy with them. Camber plates do not seem to be homologated in switzerland for street use, but I'm waiting confirmation. I saw some using M3 lower arms, do they allow more camber even if we don't go for camber plates? Are we speaking of the E90/E92 M3 arms? Cheers.
__________________
2018 M550i Sepia-Violet
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-06-2009, 12:46 PM | #102 |
Supreme Allied Commander
4014
Rep 55,431
Posts
Drives: F80 M3
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Santa Barbara, AP, Brembo, GIAC, Koni, Ohlins, Performance Friction, www.hpautosport.com
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-06-2009, 08:46 PM | #103 | |
My ride: bimmergirl84
22
Rep 302
Posts |
Quote:
If it were my car, I'd probably just drop in a K&N filter. The stock airbox is very well engineered and takes into account the proper shape/volume for frequency resonance and airflow direction into the manifold. The stock intake point at the front of the car is also ideally placed and designed for the right air pressure & flow around that particular point. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-06-2009, 08:53 PM | #104 | |
My ride: bimmergirl84
22
Rep 302
Posts |
Quote:
-2* is fine for street use with occasional 'spirited' driving. Maybe I drive more spirited than others, but from my experience -2 is fine on tire wear for the street. Yes, the E90/92 M arms allow for a bit more camber. Talk to Harold @ HP Autowerks, he sells them and knows all about them. IIRC, they add about .5* of negative camber, but double-check that with Harold. Good luck man, keep us updated |
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-07-2009, 08:48 AM | #105 |
Private First Class
23
Rep 193
Posts |
I've read through all the threads on here and e90post about the M3 conversion kit. I am completely amazed by your level of expertise and appreciate all you've added. I'm definitely going to get the M3 conversion kit from Harold but have a question on the rest of the suspension. Would you suggest a Coilover setup or spring/strut setup? I was originally considering the TC Kline D/A setup but now I'm thing of the Koni/H&R Stage 1 kit from Harold, or KW v2. Also, do you think the camber plates and sway bars would work well with this setup? Sorry for so many questions. The car will be primarily for HPDE and Track Days. I may occassionally drive it around town during nice weather. Thanks for all your help.
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-07-2009, 02:39 PM | #106 | |
Private First Class
16
Rep 189
Posts |
Thanks Jeff. I'll post when I have everything assembled.
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-08-2009, 05:11 AM | #107 | |
Second Lieutenant
38
Rep 234
Posts |
Quote:
I see they have a M3 conversion kit including front and rear parts + anti-roll bars and sub-frame bushing kit. Do you think I should consider that? Do you know anyone who tested this M3 kit? Thanks very much for your time!
__________________
2018 M550i Sepia-Violet
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-10-2009, 04:13 PM | #108 |
Second Lieutenant
13
Rep 231
Posts |
Hey J. Thanks again for the advice. Nice to see someone abusing bilsteins. I have PSS10's as well and agree they do drop the car low. I am heading to a weekend of drag/autocross at bitburg and wondered what settings you would use for either of these types of performance driving. I'll be running star specs in the rear so a little improved traction, don't know if I'll get my fronts in on time so understeer should be a limiting factor I just wondered what dampening setting you'd use in my shoes?
Last edited by kc_skyrider; 09-18-2009 at 12:32 AM.. |
Appreciate
0
|
09-10-2009, 04:38 PM | #109 | |
Supreme Allied Commander
4014
Rep 55,431
Posts
Drives: F80 M3
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Santa Barbara, AP, Brembo, GIAC, Koni, Ohlins, Performance Friction, www.hpautosport.com
|
Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-19-2009, 11:36 PM | #110 | |
Private First Class
16
Rep 189
Posts |
Jeff, I haven't installed the AST coilovers yet, but in preparation I could use your advice on ride height. Assuming I had an infinite range of height adjustment, what would you recommend? My uneducated guess would be slightly lower than stock, but not too much. Perhaps 15-20mm. I am not interested in how it looks. Just how it performs. I understand the physics of a lower center of gravity, but I don't want to go too low and adversely impact the suspension geometry.
Thanks. Quote:
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
Post Reply |
Bookmarks |
|
|