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02-07-2011, 01:14 AM | #1 |
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Throwing some codes (tuning related)
The last 2 times I went to the track, I and another 135i owner both started hitting random limp modes. He's on a Vishnu tune and I'm on my JB3.
Anyway, I popped in my BVTool and got the following codes (listed below). I'm trying to figure out what they mean by looking at this thread. There doesn't seem to be many places to look this info up. About my car: JB3 on Map 3 with 91 octane with stock everything save for an exhaust (rear muffler segment only- no downpipes or midpipes). I spent all my money on suspension and tires. :-) 30FF: Exhaust fume turno charger, low pressure side "Often caused by boost leaks, leaky DVs, broken vacuum lines, etc. Also possibly tuning related. If using a TMAP tune (SSTT/JB+) it may be a sign you need to reduce your boost level, or perform the solenoid bypass." THOUGHTS: I had my mechanic check for boost leaks last visit and he didn't come up with anything. Maybe a solenoid baypass is in order, though I have no clue what that is. What do you think? 2F8F: Accelerator pedal module and brake pedal, plausibility "EXPLANATION: Can be triggered when doing burn out or dyno FIX: Ignore or delete" THOUGHTS: I'm not sure what this means. I was doing some messy heal-toe'ing when this was triggered,,, maybe that's it? 2D18: Manipulation cover, maximun air mass THOUGHTS: Tuner code. I know what this means and will make sure to clear it. 2D2E: Angle of throttle valve - intake pipe under pressure, correlation THOUGHTS: No idea what this means. Google searches have turned up empty. Any ideas? If you have any insight here, I would be very appreciative if you'd chime in. I have already emailed Terry to gather his thoughts, but wanted to see if any 1Addicts had any similar experience or diagnosis to offer. ~ Jeremy
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135i // M-Sports Package // RR Oil Catch Can // Black Kidneys // iCarbon Hood // Alum Pedals // KW v2 Coilovers // Vorshlag Camber Plates // Hotchkis Sway Bar // Wheel Studs. Best mod ever? Tires. 255's in front, 275's in back.
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02-07-2011, 01:39 AM | #2 |
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I got the 30FF while at the drags and using a Procede, my in dash boost gauge would not go over half way which was no more then 10psi so I assumed I had a boost leak. A few days later I changed from map 2 to map 1 then back to map 2 again and the boost level went back to normal. I am currently trying out the JB4 and I did some logs last weekend and it does appear that my boost is right on target.
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02-07-2011, 02:56 AM | #4 |
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Right. Emailing Terry was the first thing I did. That guy is awesome and he generally responds very fast. I just wondered if any of you guys were seeing similar codes.
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135i // M-Sports Package // RR Oil Catch Can // Black Kidneys // iCarbon Hood // Alum Pedals // KW v2 Coilovers // Vorshlag Camber Plates // Hotchkis Sway Bar // Wheel Studs. Best mod ever? Tires. 255's in front, 275's in back.
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02-07-2011, 05:41 AM | #5 |
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30FF
i got that when i put the bov kit on my car after i put the O ring back in the car no 30ff anymore
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02-07-2011, 10:08 AM | #6 |
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I've had the 2F8F and its normally when you either are trying to do a B/O or both feet are on brake and gas at the same time.
The other 3 I have never seen.
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02-08-2011, 03:28 PM | #7 | |
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The weird part is the limp modes. I heard back from Terry and he thought the 30FF could be causing those. I guess that could just be a JB3 issue. He did say the JB4 had better boost leak detection. Whatever that means!
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135i // M-Sports Package // RR Oil Catch Can // Black Kidneys // iCarbon Hood // Alum Pedals // KW v2 Coilovers // Vorshlag Camber Plates // Hotchkis Sway Bar // Wheel Studs. Best mod ever? Tires. 255's in front, 275's in back.
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02-08-2011, 04:15 PM | #8 |
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The 30ff code is a boost leak code and will cause limp modes when you push the car hard. The solenoid bypass is not recommended for the JB3/4 and V4/5. How did your guy check for leaks? Do you have an upgraded IC, Charge pipe, or BOV/DV's?
My guess is your on stock charge pipe and DV's is that your DV's are leaking boost back to the intake side. Some guys that were pushing boost that had the stock DV's would get that code and solved it by upgrading. |
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02-08-2011, 06:11 PM | #9 | |
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I'm not sure how my mechanic checked for leaks and to be honest, I'm not confident he did. You're saying people upgraded their DV (diverter valve)? How is that done? Where can I buy the part? I'm eager to solve this because getting limp modes on the track is kinda freaky.
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135i // M-Sports Package // RR Oil Catch Can // Black Kidneys // iCarbon Hood // Alum Pedals // KW v2 Coilovers // Vorshlag Camber Plates // Hotchkis Sway Bar // Wheel Studs. Best mod ever? Tires. 255's in front, 275's in back.
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02-09-2011, 11:35 AM | #10 | |
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Your choices is to upgrade your charge pipe and get either a BOV or Forge DV's. Stett, Evolution racing, and ultimate racing seem to be popular products. You can mount the Forge DV's to the stock pipe, but I had a hard time securing them down and kind of had to jury rigg it to work on the stock pipe. Also raptor BOV will mount to the stock pipe. |
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02-09-2011, 02:54 PM | #11 |
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I was the other 135 driver who's car went into limp mode a few times on the track with Jeremy. I never hooked up my laptop to read the codes and just recently deleted the codes before taking the car in for the recall on the HPFP and injectors. They did replace one injector on cylinder 6, so perhaps the injector and old HPFP were causing the problem. I do have an Evolution racewerks FMIC with the aftermarket charge pipe, but still have the stock DVs. If it is boost leak, maybe aftermarket DVs or a BOV will fix the problem. Like Jeremy said, going into limp mode on the track is no fun.
Last edited by 320Devil; 02-09-2011 at 06:28 PM.. |
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02-09-2011, 02:58 PM | #12 |
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Happened to me at MFest. All the M's got REAL lucky when that happened. I was PWNing. Would love to hear the fix though.
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02-09-2011, 05:45 PM | #13 |
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Looks like others are trying to track down boost leaks as well:
http://n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?p=130544 http://n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?p=155577 dang. Here's a DIY: Another DIY, this time from N54tech! http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2475 And a product someone sells if you're more serious: http://www.turboboostleaktesters.com/
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135i // M-Sports Package // RR Oil Catch Can // Black Kidneys // iCarbon Hood // Alum Pedals // KW v2 Coilovers // Vorshlag Camber Plates // Hotchkis Sway Bar // Wheel Studs. Best mod ever? Tires. 255's in front, 275's in back.
Last edited by jeremydgreat; 02-09-2011 at 06:24 PM.. |
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02-09-2011, 06:39 PM | #14 | |
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02-09-2011, 06:53 PM | #15 |
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@350zpilot link up your reading! I wanna see.
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135i // M-Sports Package // RR Oil Catch Can // Black Kidneys // iCarbon Hood // Alum Pedals // KW v2 Coilovers // Vorshlag Camber Plates // Hotchkis Sway Bar // Wheel Studs. Best mod ever? Tires. 255's in front, 275's in back.
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02-09-2011, 08:23 PM | #16 | |
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I recomened the raptor BOV if you want the pshhh sound and the Forge DV's if you dont. http://www.namotorsports.net/detail...._cd/FMDVBM35b/ http://www.titanmotorsports.com/bmw33tublvab.html |
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02-09-2011, 10:05 PM | #17 |
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Not to hijack my own thread. but...
I've heard from multiple sources that BOV's do very little for the N54 in terms of performance. Are they supposed to help reduce the effect of boost leaks or something?
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135i // M-Sports Package // RR Oil Catch Can // Black Kidneys // iCarbon Hood // Alum Pedals // KW v2 Coilovers // Vorshlag Camber Plates // Hotchkis Sway Bar // Wheel Studs. Best mod ever? Tires. 255's in front, 275's in back.
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02-10-2011, 09:24 AM | #18 |
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From my understanding, the car was designed from factory to recirculate the air from the charge pipe back into the air inlet. But by using a blow off valve this system is completely avoided and the air is just put back into the atmosphere. I'm sure recirculated the air has a much more constructive effect than spitting it back into the atmosphere.
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02-10-2011, 10:24 AM | #19 |
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It doesn't matter if its recirc'd or not. The car only cares about the pressure in the intake manifold, not the intake pipe.
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02-10-2011, 04:41 PM | #20 | |
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The N54 runs a MAP sensor instead of the MAF sensor in other cars, meaning we can run a BOV without having to worry about tuning for the lost air when it's dumped into the atmosphere instead of recirc'd. In terms of performance...yes you will not gain performance or lose any. The reason that you upgrade is if your running high boost and the stockers just cant handle it. Or you want the sound of a BOV. |
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02-10-2011, 05:14 PM | #21 |
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Thanks, I've explained it too many times to go into detail lol.
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