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08-19-2010, 11:03 PM | #244 | |
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You'd probably stand a better chance of putting e92 M3 rear brakes on there, but I haven't seen those.
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08-19-2010, 11:47 PM | #245 |
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jesus, just found out about this... piggy bank will be saving for some stop techs for sure now.
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08-20-2010, 01:04 AM | #246 |
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People have wondered why there are those bridges over the top of the front calipers so you can't slide the pads out the top to change them. I think it may be because the calipers are too long to have a opening that large in the top.
When I got my last set of new front pads, I also got some for our M3 race car that has the StopTech 355 kits (bear in mind, that is the largest kit I can get under my 18" wheels). When I opened them up, I mistakenly thought the pads were for the other car. The 135i front pads were so much larger than the pads for my M3. There was such a difference, I wondered if Hawk had sent me the wrong pads for the M3 and immediately went to my spares drawer to double check. When I pull my stuff out this weekend, I'll try to remember to get a shot of the 2 pads next to each other.
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09-09-2010, 07:58 PM | #247 |
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Quick question: I had serious brake fade last weekend at VIR and had to take easy laps to let my brakes cool. I am looking for something that will hold up better at the track, but I don't have time (or really the desire to spend the money) on new brakes before my next event. I am already running ATE Typ200.
What pads can I use that will perform better at those high temperatures and not risk hurting my calipers? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I really would like to have some decent breaking without frying my brakes in my next track days at Summit Point at the end of October. |
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09-09-2010, 08:30 PM | #248 | |
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09-10-2010, 04:37 PM | #249 | |
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I have heard a rumor the car manufacturers are starting to use paints that change colors above certain temperatures as a method to refuse warranty claims. The real solution is an aftermarket brake upgrade (just as it is pretty much on any high performance car) from somebody like StopTech.
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09-10-2010, 05:00 PM | #250 |
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The problem is I just need better pads to hold me over for my next event which is a little over a month away. I can't order and install a StopTech system before my next event and I don't want to fry my stock calipers. Do you have any advice on which pads to use that will fit it perfectly without doing caliper damage? I still expect brake fade, but just longer before it fade sets in.
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09-11-2010, 01:03 AM | #251 | |
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You have to find a provider in USA... http://www.project-mu.com.au/en/products/pad_ns.php And put the sheems Titanium to protect the calipers: http://tispeed.com/index.php?main_pa...products_id=92 |
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09-11-2010, 01:12 AM | #252 | |
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Realistically though, if you're running in a novice or intermediate run group it's highly unlikely that you can even attain the speeds required to nuke the OEM ceramic piston pucks and bake the caliper finish. I wouldn't sweat it unless you're *REALLY* hammering them. |
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09-12-2010, 11:21 PM | #253 | |
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09-14-2010, 08:42 PM | #254 | |
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Anyways, thanks for all of the help guys. I really appreciate the advice and I will look into getting some track pads for my next event. |
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10-02-2010, 11:18 AM | #255 | |
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I went with HP+ and ATE 200 fluid. Thought I would be fine in the A Group, but I guess not. Huge amounts of fade, and I could feel the pistons crushing, by the pedal dropping a 1/4" in at times, during hard braking. |
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10-09-2010, 05:15 PM | #256 |
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There is a fix, if this should happen to you: I created a new thread with the fix, to make it easier to find.
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12-17-2010, 10:51 AM | #257 |
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Just wondering if switching to the setup in the 1M would be the way to go in future?
"Brake hardware is shared with the current M3, and consists of 14.2-inch cast-iron ventilated front discs, 13.8-inch ventilated rear discs and single-piston sliding calipers all around. This is a notable upgrade over the 13.3-inch front and 12.8-inch rear rotors on the 135i." http://www.insideline.com/bmw/1-seri...-series-m.html |
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12-17-2010, 12:25 PM | #258 |
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The M3 brakes are known to be inadequate as well. Not much of an upgrade there
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03-18-2011, 02:09 PM | #260 |
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Are the ceramic pistons are breaking because of heat, pressure, or both?
If you use street pads (like HP+) that lose effectiveness at a lower temperature (compared to track pads) and have to mash down on the brake pedal, could that added pressure break the pistons? Watkins Glen has some serious braking zones (i.e. where the NASCAR guys have warped the track surface). But could you have been better off (would the pistons be OK) if you'd used HT-10's or a DTC pad?
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03-18-2011, 03:06 PM | #261 | |
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But to directly answer your question, it is the heat that kills them. Chris |
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03-18-2011, 04:14 PM | #262 |
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OK, I just ordered the titanium shims, and still plan to use HT-10's at VIR. Are brake ducts a good idea?
Was it scott or berk (or both) who made brake ducts? Was it out of the OEM splash guards? Does anyone sell a kit, or do you have spares you'd sell me?
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03-18-2011, 04:40 PM | #263 |
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You can also bend the splash guards to divert more air to the rotors. Cheap and effective
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04-05-2011, 05:55 PM | #264 |
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subscribed....interested in bending splash guards too.
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