128i love

[Kgolf31]

Originally Posted by 631twentyeighteye

I noticed i have more power across the range, but peak power is like you said. However, i specifically told the guys to hit rev limiter on this run. I wanted to verify that my car held near peak power all the way to 7k. I'm debating asking AA to raise my rev limiter to 7200..

You could be right. I actually found my stock box in my garage, turns out i didn't throw it out. I might toss it on tomorrow and see if i notice any changes through the week. It only takes 15 minutes so it's not too big of a deal.


I just really hate how it crowds the engine bay with a ton of ugly plastic

There is no reason to raise the limiter to 7200, you drop off on torque and at that point it makes more sense to shift than try to hold.

Of course, This isn't the reason why I have mine set at 7200...lol. I need more 2nd gear for autocross so the 200 RPM results in a couple more MPH.

[chris82]

Anyways, my dyno results: 220whp, 207wtq on a mustang dyno. N51 engine, Charcoal filter delete and AA tune

[631twentyeighteye]

Originally Posted by Kgolf31

There is no reason to raise the limiter to 7200, you drop off on torque and at that point it makes more sense to shift than try to hold.

Of course, This isn't the reason why I have mine set at 7200...lol. I need more 2nd gear for autocross so the 200 RPM results in a couple more MPH.

That makes sense. I did throw my stock airbox on today. Nothing felt different but ill see how it goes this week. The sound is vastly different, it lost a lot of the roar between 3.5-5k rpm. Not necessarily a bad thing.

[631twentyeighteye]

Here's all the dyno footage from the dyno day. My video is second, time in the description.

Dat vanos changeover tho

[631twentyeighteye]

So last night i discovered that my 2010 MT 128I for some reason has an automatic radiator. It has two hoses at the bottom that are simply plugged and dripping a bit of coolant(finally found that leak!). They're the hoses that normally run to the auto transmission cooler.

So for future reference, are there any upgraded radiators for our platform?

[bNks334]

you sure it's a different radiator? They might be universal and the plugs are standard. That's how the parts were on my old car. Autos utilized the extras ports while manuals just plugged them.

Try replacing the plugs and use some good coolant sealant on the threads when you put them back in? That would be the best short-term solution.

The problem I know of with high capacity radiators is that they are also thicker as well which makes fitment a bitch. With a NA engine is there any need for an upgraded radiator? Have you run diag on coolant temps? You can get a cheap bluetooth--->OBII connector on amazon for <$20. There are several apps you can utilize for free to check temps.

[631twentyeighteye]

Originally Posted by bNks334

you sure it's a different radiator? They might be universal and the plugs are standard. That's how the parts were on my old car. Autos utilized the extras ports while manuals just plugged them.

Try replacing the plugs and use some good coolant sealant on the threads when you put them back in? That would be the best short-term solution.

The problem I know of with high capacity radiators is that they are also thicker as well which makes fitment a bitch. With a NA engine is there any need for an upgraded radiator? Have you run diag on coolant temps? You can get a cheap bluetooth--->OBII connector on amazon for <$20. There are several apps you can utilize for free to check temps.

No coolant temp issues what so ever. The fan barely ever kicks on full blast . But i know i will track this eventually so i might go for an upgraded radiator eventually. I plan on doing an oil cooler too. +1 for a bluetooth adapter and Torque app(or equivalent). That has helped me immensely with checking out various things on my car.

I haven't looked on Real OEM yet but you may be right. I do plan on plugging them better at least temporarily. What has me concerned is it was plugged with a threaded bolt, not an actual plug. The other side was also just open with no plug in it, assuming it fell out. I'm going to properly plug and seal them later this week.

Also forgot to mentione; Hotchki's 32mm front sway bar installed, and transmission fluid changed. All of the understeer is gone now, however i especially notice the god awful E-diff now. That will be fixed next year.

The gear changes are butter smooth now. Will continue to monitor how quickly or slowly the buttersmoothness leaves. Will probably continue to use MTL every 30k miles.



edit: Real OEM is only showing automatic transmission radiators no matter what i search under... bit strange, no? http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...23&hg=17&fg=05

[justpete]

Originally Posted by 631twentyeighteye

So last night i discovered that my 2010 MT 128I for some reason has an automatic radiator. It has two hoses at the bottom that are simply plugged and dripping a bit of coolant(finally found that leak!). They're the hoses that normally run to the auto transmission cooler.

So for future reference, are there any upgraded radiators for our platform?

FWIW, I'm having a custom radiator built by C&R Racing as a drop-in for my 328i 6MT. It should also be a drop-in for a 128i, I think.

It's being built to use the existing mounting points using a new radiator as a pattern/reference and will provide clearance for the A/C condenser. It will also have a contraflow oil cooler built in with AN fittings.

It will be thicker but it will also allow the OE fan and shroud to be mounted without issues. Also uses OE hoses although I'm having silicone hoses made for the install since it wasn't possible to convert both the engine and the radiator to AN fittings. I'm having a boss added for a separate temp sensor to wire into the datalogger in the car but that's easily plugged if it isn't needed.

The oil filter cover is going to be replaced with one from an N54 and its oil cooler ports modified to AN fittings for connection to the oil cooler, and to use the internal oil thermostat. I think they're going to connect the 2qt Accusump to the turbo oiler port but I'm not sure about that. Fun part is trying to figure out where the heck to mount the Accusump.

Will be a few weeks before it's done but should be orderable once we have it in and checked for fit and function.

[631twentyeighteye]

Originally Posted by justpete

FWIW, I'm having a custom radiator built by C&R Racing as a drop-in for my 328i 6MT. It should also be a drop-in for a 128i, I think.

It's being built to use the existing mounting points using a new radiator as a pattern/reference and will provide clearance for the A/C condenser. It will also have a contraflow oil cooler built in with AN fittings.

It will be thicker but it will also allow the OE fan and shroud to be mounted without issues. Also uses OE hoses although I'm having silicone hoses made for the install since it wasn't possible to convert both the engine and the radiator to AN fittings. I'm having a boss added for a separate temp sensor to wire into the datalogger in the car but that's easily plugged if it isn't needed.

The oil filter cover is going to be replaced with one from an N54 and its oil cooler ports modified to AN fittings for connection to the oil cooler, and to use the internal oil thermostat. I think they're going to connect the 2qt Accusump to the turbo oiler port but I'm not sure about that. Fun part is trying to figure out where the heck to mount the Accusump.

Will be a few weeks before it's done but should be orderable once we have it in and checked for fit and function.

Sounds like everything i could ask for in a radiator. What's the estimated cost on it? I'm sure a pretty penny

[justpete]

Originally Posted by 631twentyeighteye

Sounds like everything i could ask for in a radiator. What's the estimated cost on it? I'm sure a pretty penny

Yeah, it ain't cheap. Estimated max quote is currently $1700 just for the radiator itself. I'm pretty sure that didn't include installation, etc. It uses the same core they use in the radiators they make for NASCAR Sprint cars.

[Obioban]

Any reason not to use a 135 rad? Fitment should be factory, and I'd imagine it has a lot more capacity given that the 135i has to deal with heat from turbos...

[justpete]

Originally Posted by Obioban

Any reason not to use a 135 rad? Fitment should be factory, and I'd imagine it has a lot more capacity given that the 135i has to deal with heat from turbos...

Nowhere near the capacity of the C&R, these are true race radiators. And there's a built-in oil cooler in a counter-flow arrangement at the cool end of the radiator. The core is built differently and has a much more effective heat transfer characteristic than a street car radiator, no comparison really. I'm not sure a 135 radiator offers any significant improvement in cooling especially if running water only.

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by justpete

Nowhere near the capacity of the C&R, these are true race radiators. And there's a built-in oil cooler in a counter-flow arrangement at the cool end of the radiator. The core is built differently and has a much more effective heat transfer characteristic than a street car radiator, no comparison really. I'm not sure a 135 radiator offers any significant improvement in cooling especially if running water only.

Coolant is a lubricant for the water pump and such. Do not recommend this.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by TheSt|G

Coolant is a lubricant for the water pump and such. Do not recommend this.

Didn't know this, thanks. Is there an alternate water pump for use in race cars where coolant isn't allowed?

[bNks334]

You can use water if you add additives. This is given that the water is also distilled. Any contaminates will rust the internals.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by bNks334

You can use water if you add additives. This is given that the water is also distilled. Any contaminates will rust the internals.

Would use Water Wetter as the additive, never straight water. But would never run distilled water as it tends to cause more corrosion initially. Drinking water or Reverse Osmosis water if it's available is a better choice if you're going to fill and forget. An old trick to de-polish DI water is to place a strip of magnesium in the flow stream but the exposed aluminum would do the same thing, more or less.

Water's a self-buffering acid and really annoys metal surfaces especially under heat and high flow rates. Crappy lubricant properties too, should've thought of that.

Gotta pester the guys at the shop about it. I haven't seen an alternative pump, maybe there's a way to add a mechanical pump, dunno.

[Obioban]

Coolant is also antifreeze, which is something I'd NEVER want to drive without-- even if i lived in the south/ca. A single day below freezing could crack your block. Not worth it.

Coolant also prevents electrolysis, in addition to being lubricant for the water pump.

I have zero desire to run anything other than 50/50. If cooling can't keep up, I need more cooling system.

If water wetter was just better, it would be in the coolant stock. Just like oil additives. Pass.

I think you missed the point of my 135 rad question. Undoubtedly the c&r cooler could cool more, if speced properly. The question was, is the 135i rad plug and play? If so, it certainly fits better, is likely lighter (e.g. C&R for s54 is 8 lbs heavier than stock on the worst place on the car), and is cheaper. If it bumps cooling capacity by enough, seems like a solid path. Given how much more heat the 135i has to deal with, I bet it does. Anything beyond "enough" with cooling systems is useless ("enough" for me means I can do 30 min track sessions on 100 degree days without coolant temps rising above acceptable levels).

[justpete]

Originally Posted by Obioban

Coolant is also antifreeze, which is something I'd NEVER want to drive without-- even if i lived in the south/ca. A single day below freezing could crack your block. Not worth it.

Coolant also prevents electrolysis, in addition to being lubricant for the water pump.

I have zero desire to run anything other than 50/50. If cooling can't keep up, I need more cooling system.

If water wetter was just better, it would be in the coolant stock. Just like oil additives. Pass.

I think you missed the point of my 135 rad question. Undoubtedly the c&r cooler could cool more, if speced properly. The question was, is the 135i rad plug and play? If so, it certainly fits better, is likely lighter (e.g. C&R for s54 is 8 lbs heavier than stock on the worst place on the car), and is cheaper. If it bumps cooling capacity by enough, seems like a solid path. Given how much more heat the 135i has to deal with, I bet it does. Anything beyond "enough" with cooling systems is useless ("enough" for me means I can do 30 min track sessions on 100 degree days) without coolant temps rising above acceptable levels).

Um, not to be disrespectful or anything but I am familiar with anti-freeze's property of preventing water from freezing when mixed together. Not much of a mystery there.

Nobody said Water Wetter was better than coolant. Ever. The discussion centers around _racing_, not day to day street use.

I've no idea if the 135 radiator would plug and play and don't really care, sorry.

How much extra cooling do you calculate is needed if the AFR is leaned out to get more power at the high end of the rev range? And how would one go about avoiding nucleation in the head where detonation could be destructive? What pressure would the cooling system be set at with what type of radiator cap? What temp range spark plugs would be best in this situation? What would be the optimum flow rate of the coolant? Is there an optimum thermostat temperature? How would all this relate to ambient temps at the track surface? All of this matters and the C&R radiator is designed to help address the issues, the 135i radiator is not. Thus the lack of interest in it as an option.

If added weight and cost mattered I wouldn't be adding an Accusump and a differential cooler. Sometimes you have to strip out weight to add weight in order to get the functionality you need.

[Obioban]

Originally Posted by justpete

Um, not to be disrespectful or anything but I am familiar with anti-freeze's property of preventing water from freezing when mixed together. Not much of a mystery there.

Nobody said Water Wetter was better than coolant. Ever. The discussion centers around _racing_, not day to day street use.

I've no idea if the 135 radiator would plug and play and don't really care, sorry.

How much extra cooling do you calculate is needed if the AFR is leaned out to get more power at the high end of the rev range? And how would one go about avoiding nucleation in the head where detonation could be destructive? What pressure would the cooling system be set at with what type of radiator cap? What temp range spark plugs would be best in this situation? What would be the optimum flow rate of the coolant? Is there an optimum thermostat temperature? How would all this relate to ambient temps at the track surface? All of this matters and the C&R radiator is designed to help address the issues, the 135i radiator is not. Thus the lack of interest in it as an option.

If added weight and cost mattered I wouldn't be adding an Accusump and a differential cooler. Sometimes you have to strip out weight to add weight in order to get the functionality you need.

See, I think that's where you're completely missing the point. Let's review what you actually replied to...

So last night i discovered that my 2010 MT 128I for some reason has an automatic radiator. It has two hoses at the bottom that are simply plugged and dripping a bit of coolant(finally found that leak!). They're the hoses that normally run to the auto transmission cooler.

So for future reference, are there any upgraded radiators for our platform?

To which you replied with a solution that costs 4-5 times as much, fits worse, adds weight... and then suggested further solutions that would decrease reliability (lack of lubrication and antifreeze).

So, yeah... I'm not sure I'm the one missing the plot, here.
(as in, pretty clearly he's not talking about a race car, eh?)

But, yes, I'm well aware of the benefits-- my (2500 lb, 380 Normally aspirated HP) e36 M3 race car has a C&R rad. My wife's 328iT that may see some track use? 335i rad would be a far better option (and is a much more analogous situation to what the poster you replied to is asking.

And, no indy racer is basing their rads on spark plug temps and track surface temps. They choose something that'll fit their car in all situations and run it. As are you, unless you're swapping out rads based on the air temp that day.

[justpete]

I replied to the single line asking about upgrades for the radiator. Reading comprehension isn't your forte apparently.

Quit being a laughable dick, all you do is twist what others say and make no useful contributions. Thus you're only worth plonkage. buhbye

*plonk*

[Obioban]

Originally Posted by justpete

I replied to the single line asking about upgrades for the radiator. Reading comprehension isn't your forte apparently.

Quit being a laughable dick, all you do is twist what others say and make no useful contributions. Thus you're only worth plonkage. buhbye

*plonk*

I'm not twisting anything. He asked about a replacement rad that clearly isn't for a race car. Your replied with something totally inappropriate for his needs.

And somehow thought, in your words,

The discussion centers around _racing_, not day to day street use

Not sure how that's making reading compression not my forte...

[Taskmaster]

And that spiraled out of control quick.