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04-19-2012, 07:36 PM | #23 |
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For those of you who track your cars and have the front E93 bar, does it help with grip or does it just make the car push more?
I have Vorshlag camber plates on stock suspension with around -2.5 front camber, but experience SIGNIFICANT body roll at VIR. After finding my outside tire temps remain to be higher than inside/center, I'm thinking that the car is losing grip due to the McPherson design and a stiffer front roll bar would help. People have mentioned possible improvements if you have neg. front camber, but I'd just like to hear feelings from people with track experience and maybe how much neg. camber is needed to warrant installing the bar vs keeping everything stock. |
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04-19-2012, 08:16 PM | #24 |
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this would be a cheap enough mod to experiment and decide for yourself. a lot of varying opinions. I have the E92 bar and I am very happy with the minimal body roll. definitely helps with quick left right transitions. -2.5 to -3 deg camber and -1/8" toe-out have worked really well for me
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04-19-2012, 08:32 PM | #25 |
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Does it push at all? Do you think the E93 would be too much? Also noticed that you are not on stock suspension, so I'm guessing my car should benefit more if anything from the bar since your PSS is already stiffer/less resistant to roll?
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04-19-2012, 08:55 PM | #26 |
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just saw your video. your car rolls sooo much, lol. yeah definitely pick up a bar. I would say go with the E92 bar first. with my setup there was little understeer. would like to upgrade my rear bar but don't want to make the car too twitchy with a stiff rear end
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05-02-2012, 12:57 PM | #27 | |
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05-11-2012, 08:08 AM | #28 |
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After 4 years of Autocrossing a 135i, I found I am quickest on ASTs/Vorshlag plates with stock sways. Once I returned to stock sways; I finally was able to adjust what the car does with the the AST settings.
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07-09-2012, 12:25 PM | #30 |
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If it's for street, it probably doesn't matter. If it's for track, I think you should change your order to e92 swaybar. Just my opinion based on what I've heard and have read in this forum. I haven't actually tested the e93 swaybar.
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07-24-2012, 02:47 PM | #32 |
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I dont track my E88 and I bought the E93 bar thinking it would make the car tighter driving around the city. Should I even bother installing this?
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07-24-2012, 07:44 PM | #33 |
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07-26-2012, 08:24 AM | #34 |
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installed e93 sway on stock sport supention.
early impression: -Precise steering, i like -Tight feeling, prob due to less body roll, feels like a brand new car -Slightly more effort on steering wheel, feels more planted, -Cannot comment on understeer, but m DTC light has been blinking more, maybe cuz its wet
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128i Sport 6MT converted to Euro 130i spec, 3.73 diff, tuned by evolve ~220 whp 207 wtq(ft-lb) SAE
In-progress: //M front arm, M3 rack, e36M lip Wishlist: Coils, n55 mnts, headers, LSD, e60 finn diff "The 1-series is the last car that BMW engineered before the Germans, as a car-making culture, fell out of love with driving." - R&T 2013 135is |
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12-03-2012, 02:30 PM | #35 |
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Sorry to revive an old thread, but was this talking about the front or rear sways ?
Which one is more beneficial just for a daily driver to tighten up steering and have less body roll ?
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12-03-2012, 06:33 PM | #36 | |
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Both will give you less body roll; however, since we have an open diff, it is NOT advisable to stiffen up the rear sway too much. Stiffening the rear sway will make it more likely to lift the inner wheel during cornering. Lifting that inside wheel will cause it to just spin in the air, resulting in loss of power and traction. *Someone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong* All of what I just said is not significant concern unless you are considering tracking the car. Stiffening both front and rear bars shouldn't have any adverse affects on the street. |
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12-03-2012, 08:11 PM | #37 | |
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12-10-2012, 09:37 AM | #39 |
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Guys,
a good read about this topic. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=281136 The (not common) conclusion: E92 M3 front + no rear sway at all... |
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12-10-2012, 11:36 AM | #40 | |
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02-02-2013, 03:35 PM | #41 |
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AutoX'rs in stock class who replace the front bar, do so in conjunction with dialing in as much negative camber as possible. The goal is to have that stiffer bar reduce deflection (hopefully I am using this term correctly, it's hard to explain in text without looking at the car) and maintain that increased negative camber. I am not sure what factory spec for the front suspension of these cars is, but in a lot of McStrut cars, under heavy twisting/leaning motions, there can be temporary periods of positive camber from that suspension deflection, severely reducing available front grip. Based on how I had my old Mazda set up, it really didn't work well until I was running camber plates w/ 2.5+* in the front with a bit of toe out on the 235 square set up. Most racers (myself included) could write a small book about this, but your ideal goal is to optimize camber for your specific wheel/tire setup to keep as much of the contact patch holding the ground as is best for the type of surface.
Is there an "Official Alignment Thread" here? It would be really beneficial to see how other's are setting up their cars. For example, here was how I had my Mazda3 set up for DD/AutoX/Track days Front: Camber: -2.6* Toe: 1/8th" total toe out Caster: NA Rear: Camber: -1.5* Toe: 0 This was with relatively short stroke coilovers with camber plates, 17x8+45 wheels on a 235/45 tire on a 65/35% weight distribution, open diff'd 2950lb FWD car. |
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02-02-2013, 03:45 PM | #42 |
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Front bar with a good alignment. If you want your steering to feel a bit quicker/snappier on turn in, dial in some toe-out in the front. Then again, this is very opinionated/subjective.
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02-12-2013, 02:35 PM | #44 |
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because having a roof makes the car more rigid and the chassis less prone to twisting. that's why most convertibles have extra bracing support to make the car more rigid
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