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      05-29-2014, 10:14 PM   #23
ShocknAwe
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Originally Posted by uberschnell View Post
I left the subframe bolts in (about 3 turns) on one side as I dropped the other. This helped me make sure the subframe wouldn't squirm around too much when you dropped it and it left plenty of drop on the opposite side to get the bushings in.
Did you drop Left vs Right or Front vs Back? Doing my inserts this weekend.
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      05-30-2014, 09:39 AM   #24
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Did you drop Left vs Right or Front vs Back? Doing my inserts this weekend.
For inserts I did front v. back, you don't need as much space and there is no effort needed to re-align the subframe with the bolt holes. For the full replacement you need more room and left v. right lets you drop the subframe lower, but you have to man-handle the subframe to re-align the bolt holes.

Use plenty of grease, makes the job easier. When you're done I'll bet you will laugh at how easy it was.
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      05-30-2014, 09:47 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uberschnell View Post
For inserts I did front v. back, you don't need as much space and there is no effort needed to re-align the subframe with the bolt holes.

Use plenty of grease, makes the job easier. When you're done I'll bet you will laugh at how easy it was.
Thanks! Yeah, hoping for an easy job.
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      05-31-2014, 07:51 AM   #26
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Quick question, can I remove the rear calipers and brake lines from the subframe instead of disconnecting the lines. I don't have anyone to help bleed the brakes, I'm really on the fence about doing this in my garage or paying $700+ to have a shop do it.
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      05-31-2014, 08:12 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by brocklanders View Post
Quick question, can I remove the rear calipers and brake lines from the subframe instead of disconnecting the lines. I don't have anyone to help bleed the brakes, I'm really on the fence about doing this in my garage or paying $700+ to have a shop do it.
Get yourself a Motive power bleeder for ~ $50 ...

Wise investment which will pay for itself in the long run ...

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      05-31-2014, 08:24 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by brocklanders View Post
Quick question, can I remove the rear calipers and brake lines from the subframe instead of disconnecting the lines. I don't have anyone to help bleed the brakes, I'm really on the fence about doing this in my garage or paying $700+ to have a shop do it.
No, wont work. Are you doing inserts or full replacement? I got away with not disconnecting the brake lines when I did the inserts, but needed to disconnect them for the full bushings.

Motive bleeder is the way to go + use it to bleed you brakes every year. Good tool, it's what I use.
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      05-31-2014, 09:02 AM   #29
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thanks guys, much cheaper than paying for the install. plus that's something that I will use again and again.
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      05-31-2014, 10:21 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlifxs View Post
did you get the tension strut bushings with the caster adjustment? either way, would love to hear about the results.
I put the tension strut bushings in today, the first turn in each direction gave me a terrible shutter really had me worried but hasn't happened again. I wasn't able to carve any canyons today but I took it for a five or six mile ride. Right away bumps in the road were more pronounced, mostly sound and maybe a touch more through the wheel. Steering feels good, not night and day but good. As of right now I have a 28mm front sway and the bushings, I think I would be disappointed if I left it this way without stiffening up the rear also. Regarding the caster adjustable bushings, I could not imagine trying to position the offset hole while smashing the bush through the arm, it was quite the ordeal just to get the ones I have through the arm.

Last edited by brocklanders; 06-01-2014 at 09:23 AM..
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