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01-15-2014, 07:37 AM | #45 | |
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82160309650 Each$24.75$18.56 1 Series Mud Flaps [ Front ] 82160430733 Each$29.25$21.94 1 Series Mud Flaps [ Rear ]
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01-15-2014, 08:33 AM | #46 | |
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One other thing about painting the bulbs....use BBQ black from Rustoleum, preferably from a can, not spray...you can then dip the bulbs....leave them out of the lens for a hour or so with the lights on so the paint "cures". Obviously, get the bulbs coded off whenever you can.....
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'13 128i 6sp, '19 Cherokee Ltd 3.2, '17 Ducati SuperSport S Gone But Not Forgotten: 74 Z28, 77 Datsun 280Z (1st 5sp in US), 92 Nissan 300ZTT, 94 MB SL600 V12, 01 M Roadster, 66 Yamaha TwinJet 100, 70 Suzuki X6 Hustler Race: GP/FP Spitfire SCCA, Merlyn FF SCCA, Mazda RX7 IMSA GTU, Yamaha FZR 400 AMA.
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01-15-2014, 09:50 AM | #47 |
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06-08-2015, 09:03 PM | #48 |
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I just read this and I was
Does anybody know how to code this at all? If that's even done before? I really thought this was plug and play on ALL cars, LCI or not. Maybe it does, but just pre LCI cars(Halogen or Xenon). Last edited by $iriu$black; 06-09-2015 at 09:45 AM.. |
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06-24-2015, 08:05 PM | #49 |
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I was on the ECS website and came across the footwell module that they say is needed to run LCI tail lights.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site...hts/ES2745051/ Is this what we are missing in our halogen LCI cars? If so, looks like we would need a wiring harness too...
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06-25-2015, 06:05 AM | #50 | ||
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Guys you don't need any footwell module or wiring harness for LCI halogen cars.. I'ts as simple as tapping in one extra wire to power the LED and pulling out the current running light wire. As explained many many times, the LCI halogen cars are MISSING that wire that powers the LED running lights, all you need to do is buy a wire, tap it in from another power source nearby (e.g. license plate lights) and plug it into the loom/socket where the wire was missing, then remove the wire that powers the EXISTING running light. When this is done, the LED bar will light up whenever the license plate lights are on (which is always), and brake lights will work sufficiently. The inner brake light will not light up, the outer brake light will light up, the 3rd brake light will light up and it's far enough for people to tell you're braking. Before anyone asks - NO it will not throw an error on the dash, NO you do not need coding, NO you do not need a new footwell module. I am speaking from personal experience, this is EXACTLY what I did and it worked fine. |
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06-25-2015, 08:31 AM | #51 | |
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06-25-2015, 08:46 AM | #52 | |
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You can just get any durable wire from an automotive shop and either solder it in or twist it, both work fine. |
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06-25-2015, 09:20 AM | #53 | |
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GOod thing I did not buy mine from ECS as they're more expensive. And believe it or not mine got here in less than a week buying it from Schmiedmann. |
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06-25-2015, 09:26 AM | #54 | |
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It's been a long time since I had my tail lights re-wired.. Around two years ago? So I'm not entirely clear on what I did EXACTLY back then. When I did the xenon headlight conversion I had my tail lights wired up correctly and coded to work with the xenon retrofit. In all honesty, if it works fine now I would just leave it, unless you're really OCD about them. We seriously need a sticky for the LCI Halogen guys so they will stop asking the same question |
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06-25-2015, 09:35 AM | #55 | |
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Is there anyway you can send me (PM me) some more info as to what you did to do that conversion? Is that using OEM or aftermarket lights? yeah I'll just stick to how it looks like now I guess. But thanks though for the help! |
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08-19-2015, 09:37 PM | #56 | ||
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-take a pick (similar to what dentists use) and on the sides of the connector you will see that it unlatches. -take the pick on each end and pry off. -take the pick and stick it where you see the metal clip right below the latch (where the pins connect to). -push in the metal clip and push up and out. That clip holds the pin socket in place. You can grab the wire and wiggle it out at this point. -Then just slide it into the other socket until you hear a click. Voila.
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02-03-2016, 03:14 PM | #57 |
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LCI blacklines
New 1 owner and need some blacklines.
My car: 08 128i with halogen headlights and standard tails. Please clarify that I can get the LCI blacklines part #63212225282 to work with a bit of wiring. Looking to buy from schmiedmann.com |
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03-08-2016, 12:12 AM | #58 |
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Hey guys - I came at the LCI Halogen wiring from a different angle that I wanted to share in case helpful for anyone.
I wanted the choice for both the side/brake combo filament bulb to run in addition to the LED bars or to pull the bulb and just run the LED bars or black out the rest a la Blacksport's suggestion so I wanted to do the "Jump" wire option (transfer power from Slot 2 to 1 - keeping power to both) instead of the "wire-moved-from-2-to-1-in-harness" route. That being said I was nervous splicing any wire etc. on the wiring harness side and figured the bulb socket was easier to replace if I messed anything up, so I did a quick and easy mod to the socket itself. The first step is to remove the bulb socket - and bulb, and pry the two little fangs (grey) that hold the inner bulb socket in place. BEFORE you pull the inner socket out, you may want to put some kind of marking on the side of the outer socket so you know which side 1 vs 3 is on, without having to look at the markings Next up - remember we are trying to link connection point 2 with connection 1 - so when you flip the socket over to work on it - it it will be apparent why it's important to know in advance which sides you're looking to connect without having to refer to the markings It will also become really obvious how the 3 connection points work once you get the inner socket out. Also be CAREFUL about flipping the outer socket over once you have the inner socket out - as these metal contacts can now fall out (no big deal if they do, since it's also pretty straight forward how to put them back in). Since we know which sides we're looking to connect before we touch anything - we should be confident we're going to be connecting Wire 1 and 2. I'm pretty sure connecting 2 and 3 would be a really bad idea (power to ground???) so make sure you again know which side you're connecting. And from there it was easy to fit a little flux through the outer socket and connect the two contact points (1 and 2) internally using a soldering element. When it's done - it should look like this.. At this point hold everything in place (the contacts from sliding out) and flip it back over and for sanity check make sure again you've connected points 1 and 2 and NOT 2 and 3 Replace the inner socket - here's where it will sort of test your soldering skills, if you left too big a dimple, it might take a little massaging to get it all down. Worst case you may have to use the iron again to flatten out your solder job. Once the job is smooth enough to get the inner socket clipped into place, work the bulb into the clip a few times just pressing in and out so it will seat itself in case the main bulb filament spring (the big prong) needs to settle again. And that's it! It will function as though you have a jumper wire connecting 1 and 2 without any modification to the wiring harness side. Old lights will remain plug and play. Now the question is - to continue running full stack of filament bulbs in addition to the led bars or use canbus error-free LED replacements and Blacksport's high temp paint dip trick? Although I also sort of wonder about those led bars as standalone brake lights being bright enough at night vs. their running mode And then of course there's the rear fog lights which would be a HUGE loss ... (perfect for certain "conditions" ;]). Anyhow, hope this write-up helps someone out! Cheers Last edited by Velomobile; 03-08-2016 at 12:39 AM.. |
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03-08-2016, 02:49 PM | #59 |
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This sounds a whole lot easier than running new wires. Are you saying there is a downside? Or is the result the same taking your approach or running the wire from the license plate?
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03-08-2016, 06:04 PM | #60 |
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The only difference I'd see between this setup and tapping the license plate light to power the led bars (via running the wire into halogen stock "unpowered" slot 1 on the lights) is that with my mod the LED bars also activate dual wattage as running + then brake lights (brighter when you hit the brake).
This may or may not be desire-able depending on what you want it to look like back there. I believe stock LCI Xenon tail wiring doesn't light up the LED bars on a higher wattage when you hit the brake (correct me if I'm wrong though if anyone knows for sure) |
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09-30-2017, 12:14 AM | #61 |
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Update here: I've been messing around with the Carly BMW OBD Adapter and the Full Version app allows you to disable voltage monitoring for pretty much all the exterior lights.
It has allowed me to remove 3 bulbs per tail light 1) Rear Fog (inner most) 2) Inner Brake (middle) 3) Outer Brake (outer) And code the voltage monitoring off for them. The tail lights are now super slick ALL TUBE-LIT (bars that run as parking lights, and up-current for braking with no incandescent lag - a feature not readily available on the actual stock Xenon model LCI's.. which from factory on those cars are just steady state running lights) + Trunk LED bar functioning as normal :] They are now very cool and pretty exotic looking tail lights without any visible incandescents or individual led's If anyone wants to try this let me know and I can give you details on coding. I also finished my Bi-Xenon e46 inspired retrofit and should be providing an update there eventually as well. Cheers all! |
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10-08-2017, 11:06 AM | #62 | |
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10-09-2017, 12:17 AM | #63 |
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I am in need of your help. I am a newbie to this forum & I have scoured & read every thread on the 128i Halogen vs Xenon taillights. I have a 2012 128i with Halogen headlights. My taillights I have no clue what they are but the LED line does not Turn on. I've read that your can jump wires if you have a certain Taillight to turn it on & have the lights display the LED Line like the picture you posted. If this is possible, how do I accomplish this. I appreciate any help & thank you again!
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04-18-2018, 04:46 PM | #64 | |
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05-05-2018, 08:19 AM | #65 |
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Has anyone here successfully installed the Schmiedmann Blacklines on a PRE-LCI Halogen model? The reason I'm asking is because I just did, and have no running lights with headlights turned on. Original tail lights are back in. Now, it's time to grab my VOM and try to figure out why the tail light bulb on the Blacklines isn't coming on.
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04-26-2020, 07:39 AM | #66 |
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I know this is a bit old but I figured it would be worth adding.
I added Blacklines to my LCI Halogen 128i. I took some spare solid core electrical wire I had in the garage, stripped the jacket from each end and made a jumper. As long as you get the wire deep enough, it will make contact enough to fully light the LED tubes. |
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