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01-28-2022, 03:00 PM | #45 |
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Alright here are the pics of what I did
View post on imgur.com messed up the order on the first 3 lol. The previous plugs were the same NGK 5987's I replaced them with so that's good. Something that stood out was 2 of the coils had different dates. cylinder 1 had 16 on the plastic boot and cylinder 3 had 13, while 2,4-6 had 14. When I asked the PO before, he said all were replaced. Don't know if that's what he got or he had to replace 1 more recently ' Here is View post on imgur.com Nothing crazy, just dark brownish green. Nothing shiny luckily, it was really fun to watch the old fluid be replaced by the new as the color changed!
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02-08-2022, 05:19 PM | #46 |
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Got the new tires today!
Already rides MUCH better than the Bridgestone rft so I'm glad were out of that realm Got a great deal on them for 680 with replacement certificates rather than the 800 we'd normally be paying so I'm super happy there They do look quite chunky but I like the looks on the 17's For those in a similar situation in the future, the previous tires were a square 215/50/17 Bridgestone driveguard, a non-oem size interestingly. I went to a square 225/45/17 conti dws06+
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02-21-2022, 05:02 PM | #47 |
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Alright so first semi-big issue to come up: Battery problems.
No crank, no start. Hooked up the jump pack, and it started up. This happened a couple days ago, and checking through bimmerlink, the charge level was about 46%. I drove around for a little bit and got it to 50%, but with the plan that I was going to charge the battery first and then get it checked out. Well today I was planning on heading to discount tire as the back right tire is also having some issues, and there was the same issue, no crank no start. Tried both the battery packs I had, fully charged, and nothing. I pulled the codes from the car and the only two to come up were 2ecc and a0c1. Looking through some past threads, it seems like the cable connecting to the starter and alternator from the jump cable frays or disconnects. Part from fcp My next step is to charge the battery fully. The charger should get here later this evening, and I will let it charge over night before reinstalling. once done, if it does start, I still plan on checking the cable listed above along with the ground cable underneath the car. I am not under the impression that the suppression band is part of this, but I guess it can't hurt to look at again. If it is that starter cable, does anyone have a good thread to remedy this? Along with a cable crimper and terminal, if need be quick edit: View post on imgur.com
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02-22-2022, 10:02 AM | #48 |
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Alright so battery was charged overnight and car started right up when I tried. Read codes and the ones I posted yesterday were not there after I cleared them yesterday.
After driving to get gas and back, I checked that power cable that many people have issues with and tugged on it with a little bit of force but to no avail. It's on pretty snug. I checked the suppression band thats close by and that looked fine as well. I didn't check underneath but it still looks ok. Next step is to find a place that can maybe load test the battery as well as check underneath the car for the ground strap and see the condition of that. Lastly, I plan on not driving the car again till Friday when the tire appointment has been scheduled, that'll give the car time to settle and I'll see if there's any parasitic drain and if the car starts up
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02-22-2022, 04:25 PM | #49 | |
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02-22-2022, 05:01 PM | #50 | ||
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It drives really good. Compared to my car (albeit mines awd and much heavier), it's nimble and direct. More so than on the Bridgestones and the pirelli's on my stocks for my f32
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02-22-2022, 08:25 PM | #51 | |
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All is well, car starts much faster and less strain. Im not ruling out anything else yet, so if this issue comes along again, I will post updates
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02-23-2022, 03:16 PM | #52 | |
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02-23-2022, 03:17 PM | #53 | ||
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Wheel specs though, are not!
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02-24-2022, 11:26 AM | #54 | ||
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pulling on the power cord again it still does not seem loose I will check the ground cable underneath does anyone have any suggestions?
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02-24-2022, 01:16 PM | #55 |
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02-24-2022, 01:19 PM | #56 | |
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For many people, the cable comes out of the terminal because the crimp gets loose or something else similar. Recrimping seems to work well. I also wonder about something draining but there's nothing plugged in, so I may get a multimeter to check around as well. Still, the fact that I sometimes couldn't jump the car suggest a cable issue
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02-24-2022, 01:22 PM | #57 |
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I purchased a 128i back in September and have been working through a minor electrical issue. I'll share my issue and troubleshooting tactics in case they might be useful to you.
Issue Drove the car home 800 miles without any trouble. It sat in the garage for a couple weeks after and then I started to get a significant hesitation during starting events. Sometimes it would click a couple times then nothing, sometime clicking and starter firing, sometimes nothing. The issue was always worse after driving or sitting in the sun on a warmer day. One time leaving work it took me 15 mins of trying to get it to start. No CEL but I was getting consistent A0BE, A0BF, A0C0, and A123 codes from the CAS system and 9CAB code from the body module. I also at times got A0B4, A0A9, and A0C1 errors from the CAS system. Always lots of clicking from the passenger footwell area. Troubleshooting Replaced the battery (original from 2010). It made the problem much better but still wouldn't always start with the first try, still had clicking in the passenger footwell. I put a battery tender on it since it doesn't get driven often and that didn't change anything. Checked both engine ground cables (brand new before purchase) and cleaned all contact points. Suspecting bad positive cables somewhere like you, I used jumper cables to go from the battery to jump terminal in the engine back, no change. I do not have the IBS on my negative battery cable. Ultimately I believe the CAS module is failing due to the consistent codes, possibly caused by bad engine ground that were replaced right before my purchase. I sent my original CAS, a spare CAS, and both keys to Precision ECU for repair/cloning. They reviewed my codes and agreed it sounded like a bad CAS. It's currently on the way back to me so I'll find out soon if it worked. I would suggest checking all battery cables and connections, IBS, both engine grounds, etc. Make sure the battery cable recall in the passenger footwell fuse box has been completed. Use jumper cables to connect the battery terminals, first just positive, then just negative, to rule out cable issues between the battery and the jump posts. Connect the engine directly to the chassis via a negative jumper cable to test engine grounds. Also, check any stored codes and clear to see what comes back. Good luck! Follow up 1+ year later and the car has been perfect since the install of the new CAS module. I bought a good used CAS module on eBay, sent it and my keys to Precision ECU, and it's been perfectly reliable as a daily driver since. Last edited by hoki06; 03-21-2023 at 06:44 AM.. |
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02-24-2022, 01:25 PM | #58 | |
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As for the cas, I certainly hope it's not that. There's no clicking inside the cabin, and only the initial click of what I assume is the battery trying to turn the starter I did get a few codes, which I only have a0c1 in common with yours at the moment. Again, can't rule out anything till we go down the list but I will continue to work on that.
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02-24-2022, 02:00 PM | #59 |
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Also, check the battery safety terminal aka BST. Should be easy to circumvent using the jumper cable method to verify. One end on the positive battery terminal, other on the trunk ring terminal or engine bay jump post.
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02-24-2022, 02:46 PM | #60 |
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Random things here -
I did see the new battery afterwards, sorry to repeat questions. Hmm if you own a charger you might still be sure it's 100% charged up, hook it up overnight and see how starting it up feels the next morning. If it's tip-top but not starting the car, then definitely thinking cables / connections / CAS (good thought hoki06 ). If it's drawn down, then it could be 1) not getting charged up? Alternator type issue, or again back to the cable / connector thing. 2) Parasitic draw. For that, the overnight charge and / or later trying to disconnect it overnight will tell a story. Maybe consider laying your back seats down, so you can access the trunk. Be sure you have a physical key to open the driver's door. So you can get back there. If you have a 100% dead battery it gets a lot harder to get into the car especially since you can't open the trunk from the outside w/ a key. Sometimes you can jump it to get in, sometimes folks start removing speakers and such to get to the seat folding lever. |
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02-25-2022, 06:53 AM | #61 |
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A failing IBS can drain the battery and/or cause weird starting issues. I would think it throws a code but maybe not always?
If it fails to start, have a multimeter handy and check battery voltage both at the battery terminal and at the jump terminal under the hood. Checking voltage drop during starting events can also be useful if you have a helper or longer leads you can clip on. This might be helpful. He goes through lots of things to check for a no start condition in this era of BMWs. |
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02-25-2022, 11:46 AM | #62 | |
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02-25-2022, 04:41 PM | #63 | ||
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02-25-2022, 06:00 PM | #64 | |
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Here is what I did with photos attached on imgur First, I started this morning by trying a start up, nothing. same issues as before, no start no crank, just a single click from the starter solenoid Then, I tried unplugged IBS sensor and tried startup, nothing Next, I tried jumping the car straight from the battery terminals, also nothing Later in the day, I left to go to harbor freight to pick up a circuit tester and some cabling and it started up. This leads me to start thinking cas module like hoki06 said. Once returned, I did a circuit test on the power cable that goes from the positive jump terminal, behind that plastic cover, the starter, and alternator. All lit up the tester. Then I tested the starter as seen by the video, starter turned fine. Lastly, I checked all the cables that were easy to access. Nothing seemed out of the ordinary other than a slight browning on the suppression band as seen by picture 6 and 7 I will try and test in a few days when its warmer, as temps in Texas are still freezing, hoping that its the ground cable so i dont have to replace a cas module. Can't expect that to be cheap or convenient feedback appreciated!
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02-25-2022, 06:41 PM | #65 |
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Any chance it all it used to have an alarm or anything else that would immobilize it?
I'm curious that - well it doesn't try to start, but - maybe that single click means something is being attempted? Might help rule some stuff out or at least rank the possibilities. Starter relay? |
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02-25-2022, 06:43 PM | #66 | |
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