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04-19-2015, 08:28 AM | #45 |
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Yeah plus whatever for shipping, turns out the same price. Sometimes ebay can actually be better for shipping cost and speed.
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04-26-2015, 04:45 PM | #46 |
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Short install today.
Added an H&R 27mm Front Sway and Rogue Engineering Transmission Mounts It was convenient to do them both together as I had to take the belly pans off for both. Front Sway Bar: The front sway bar job was probably the easiest mod I've made to the car so far. 4 bolts for the bushings (13mm) and 1 bolt on each end link (17mm wrench, 16mm socket). Flip it over and pull it out, then just replace with the other. I didn't bother taking the front wheels off. Just keep everything loose until it's all bolted up to make sure you can get the end links on. Before: After: The new bar had a great Graphite Gray metallic flake paint job, and is significantly heavier the stocker. It also lacks the pinch in the middle, 27mm straight through. Dimensions are perfect and had no issues hooking up to the stock end links. Initial driving impressions are good. I haven't had a chance to test the car through corners but the amount of initial front end piggery is reduced greatly. Weight transfer L to R is improved as well, it doesn't lunge into the corners anymore. Transmission Mounts: I opted for the Rogue Engineering mounts over the E46 M3 mounts due to reviews on NVH. Supposedly the RE mounts transfer less vibration and noise to the cabin than the E46M3 mounts do. Time will tell on that. The install is extremely straight-forward and can be accomplished in about 30 minutes while on jackstands. Note, I already had the front pan off for the sway bar job, and taking the transmission pan off is a cinch. I used a 13mm deep well socket and a 13mm 12-point wrench. 4 bolts for the mounts, and 4 bolts for the crossmember. The biggest thing I found that made this easier was to jack from the transmission-midpipe brace, and to jack only enough to release pressure from the mounts. If you jack further, it will cause the transmission to move slightly and require slight realignment of the crossmember. Old mounts: Side By Side (Rogue Engineering mount on Right) The RE mounts are significantly larger. The material is similar, and firmer on the RE mounts, but not by much. I can easily deform the stock mount with one hand. It does look like the stock mounts have become compressed over time. The RE mounts have a slot for the alignment nub on the crossmember, but no alignment nub for the transmission slot. I found no issue with this. I installed by bolting the mounts to the crossmember first, then sliding the whole shooting match onto the transmission. New mounts: Initial Impressions: I should have done this mod years ago. I have a modified CDV, BMS Clutch Stop, Redline MTL fluid, and a E46 ZHP shift knob. My shifting is nearly rifle bolt smooth now. The rubbery vagueness selecting gears is massively reduced, if not eliminated. I haven't noticed any additional vibrations and if anything, transmission whine and shift knob vibration seem to be reduced. Clutch chatter is also reduced. I would pin this on the old mounts being fairly well worn after 60k miles.
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04-27-2015, 05:16 PM | #47 |
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Just got the replacement sidemarkers in this evening. Interestingly, the gasket on the E82/E90 version is much larger, and better fitting, than the gasket on the E46 sidemarkers.
Pics + wash + photoshoot coming soon.
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04-28-2015, 10:09 AM | #48 |
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Ok, here's some shots of the DEPO led sidemarkers for the E82.
And the gasket is far superior to the others I was hoping would fit. Much thicker, and a slightly softer material: Planning to wash the car and install these after dinner tonight. I will be sure to take install pictures to show the connections and final fitment for anyone curious about these.
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04-30-2015, 06:20 PM | #50 |
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Installed the sidemarkers today. Very easy install, and they fit perfectly. Absolutely zero gap between the gasket and the fender.
Here are some photos of the install: Popped the old ones out. This is what you see after you unplug the bulb: Instead of the bulb, plug this in there: Fit together nicely: The housing is made with notches to match the plug, and a slot for the retainer clip as well, so the connectors sit exactly as they do with the OEM unit: They work! Shot in direct sunlight: Finished:
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05-01-2015, 11:24 AM | #51 |
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I like it! Your paint looks mint in these shots BTW... Also, your suspension setup really brings the car to a nice height! Keep it up!
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05-01-2015, 11:45 AM | #52 | |
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Quote:
I wish the paint was mint. It is certainly showing its age. Polishing and waxing does wonders though.
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05-07-2015, 11:24 AM | #53 |
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Got a big box of parts in the mail today from FCPEuro. Some fun, some well, essential.
Also, updated top post with proper pictures, photo host messed up somehow.
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05-10-2015, 06:54 PM | #54 |
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OK, so I decided to refresh the rear shock mounts today. Installed new Febi-Bilstein lower RSMs and Dinan upper RSMs.
Taking everything out was a cinch. Wish it had been this easy to install the springs. All that had to come off was the top nut, lower shock nut, and the two camber arm shock mount torx bolts. The Dinan Rear Shock Mounts are a great kit. PN: D110-0008 Left to right: Lower mount, upper mount and center bearing, top cap. This kit uses a separate washer and lock nut rather than the combined upper mount/nut part of the OE mounts. The top cap is aluminum and nearly as thick as the upper mount. There is a ~6mm recessed cup cut into it for the bearing to seat in. Very nice engineering. Use the 10mm version for non-externally adjustable dampers. It's based on the diameter of the rod. Bottom: Top: Showing stacked: The lower bushing goes inside the rubber dust cap, over the metal reinforcement cup. I inserted the OE rubber dust cap into the hole first, then carefully slotted the lower bushing. After doing that, I pressed the bearing up through the hole. It is a very tight fit. I almost couldn't do it with my hands, a bushing press (hex bolt with a washer and two nuts) would probably help a lot to pull it through the mounting hole rather than mutilating your fingers trying to do it manually. There might be a better way of doing it, but I did it step-wise like that to ensure the rubber dust cap wouldn't get trapped, folded, crushed or otherwise deformed as it is very thin. Even the rubbery lower bushing has a higher density than the OE parts. The upper bushing is much higher density, and the cap is aluminum. The mount fits together better and once assembled on the car there is zero wiggle. Comparison shots: Cleaned up the dampers while they were off the car. Just because. Also checked to make sure they weren't blown. Compression and rebound seem the same as they were when I initially installed them over a year ago. Wish I had a shock dyno! Here's what the old lower shock mounts looked like. This is only 60k miles. If your rear end is starting to feel less than excellent, it's a worthwhile thing to look at. Done! Impressions: Because I replaced my shredding lower shock mounts as well I can't comment on whether the change is due only to the Dinan RSMs, however, the change is staggering. Rear ride quality is smooth again, bounce is tamed, wobble under WOT is gone, traction seems to be improved. Rear squat is slightly minimized (it wasn't bad to begin with), unbalanced feeling crossing road crowns is better, and some croaks and pops from the rear suspension have been quieted. The rear usually got super squirrel-y thanks to the open diff hitting a tight corner as well, the transfer is much better now and the rear end no longer flops as hard onto the outside wheel. This seems to be resulting in less inner wheel spin. We'll see, I need time to confirm that, as well as a mountain trip.
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05-20-2015, 09:36 AM | #56 |
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Thanks! If you need help with anything or have questions let me know.
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06-07-2015, 05:38 PM | #57 |
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Cleaned up the engine bay. Everything was coated in 1/16" of thick grime. Check and wash/oil those filters folks! Mine were disgusting after only 3 months. Guess it was a dusty/buggy spring.
Also detailed the oil filter housing. Time to watch the seams for leaks.
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06-07-2015, 08:19 PM | #58 |
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Nicely done man!!! The engine bay looks very clean.
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06-21-2015, 08:49 AM | #59 |
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Pulled the eyebrows off this morning. Going to sand and repaint. It's amazing how destroyed the paint has become in such a short time.
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06-22-2015, 10:03 PM | #60 |
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5 hours of wet sanding and all the paint is gone. Debating repainting vs PlastiDip. Dip would definitely be easier to remove and reapply, but it's hard to argue paint doesn't look better when done right.
I forgot how nice these CSR eyebrows are. They really looked like shit. I had been lying to myself on whether they needed a work-over for quite a while. Anyone have thoughts? Any recommendations on quality paint to use? Satin Black and a satin clearcoat.
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08-01-2015, 02:59 PM | #62 |
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09-19-2015, 11:05 AM | #64 |
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Well, bad news. Car got backed into last night. Passenger rear quarter is dented and scraped, and passenger door and mirror cover are both dented and scraped down to the metal in spots. It's not horrible by any means, could have been a LOT worse, and the claim is processing through insurance right now.
Will see what it comes out to, damage is what I would consider fairly minor other than the creasing in the door and rear quarter.
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01-04-2016, 10:30 AM | #65 |
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Almost there. Car is back in the body shop one last time (hopefully, christ!) and off to BMW for clutch work. Then I can finally clean it up, and do some updates!
Got a big box of absolutely gorgeous coils courtesy of TC Kline Racing sitting in my garage. Need to get off my ass and photograph this stuff! Starting my garage renovation this weekend, so possibly doing that install here in the coming week-ish.
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