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08-10-2008, 09:37 PM | #45 |
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Finally got it! Thank you all for your help.
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08-27-2008, 09:23 PM | #46 |
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now, its not legal where i live to have a radar detector, what are the chances i would get caught, for example i'd be turning it off as soon as it goes off, slow down and look for cops.. also turning it off and throwing it in the glove box or something, so nothing is visible other than that wiring? thoughts? advice? anyone have a detector in the states where its not legal?
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08-27-2008, 11:17 PM | #47 | |
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I'm guessing your'e in VA, because there are only two states where detectors are illegal. Based on that, my advice is to just move out of there! (I grew up in VA, and I'd never move back because of their laws) But seriously, you're better off not using it. VA has RADAR detector detectors in some of the State Trooper cars that can pick up the detector without you ever knowing they're there. Once that thing goes off they have probably cause to search your car, and they'll write you a big whopping ticket. Some of the newer detectors are invisible to most of the detector detectors, but it's a cat and mouse game, with each side on-upping the other. VA has started using a new detector detector that picks up nearly all of them. :iono: |
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08-28-2008, 11:22 PM | #49 |
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09-03-2008, 10:40 PM | #50 |
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Well, I used this thread to wire in my K40 radar detector. I couldn't find a good spot to wire it into under the steering column so this was great. I've never see the add-a-circuit thing either, good little item.
Thanks for the how to! |
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09-03-2008, 11:40 PM | #51 |
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Fuse Taps are great...
I have I think right now 3 of them in my fuse box. one for radar alone, one 12v constant, one 12v ignition. I work for a GPS Tracking Company and one of my side projects is testing new devices so most the time I have two tracking devices hard wired for long periods of time in my glove box. I wanted to ensure none of the cables can be seen. I have GPS antenna's ran into the trunk under the carpeted area seeing out the rear glass. pretty slick setup actually. |
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09-23-2008, 08:40 AM | #52 |
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Thanks so VERY much for this write up, and DIY.
This is one of the 1st things I did to my MINI Cooper S, after I purchased it. Yesterday morning I was in the footwells looking around to see where I could start running cables. Found this thread at the perfect time. Ordering my hardwire kit for the 8500 now.
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09-28-2008, 04:35 PM | #53 |
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2008 335i Sedan here. Glove compartment has a removable panel in the back. So it's even easier to get to the fuses...
I went to Autozone and the only Add-a-fuse they had was not the "little" fuse one - it was for slightly bigger fuses. So I can't tap into #5 or #8 - it's got to be one of the empty slots in the 30's. Is this OK to do? Which slot should I use? An empty one (does it matter which) with just a 2amp fuse for an Escort 8500? or should I take this back and get a mini Add-a-fuse? |
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09-28-2008, 05:02 PM | #54 |
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I have about 3 fuse taps in my vehicle (two separate ignition lines and one 12v constant). I tapped into empty fuse holders but the key is do not complete the circuit.
I took special care to ensure that the way i plugged in my fuse taps it gave me the power i needed but did not complete the circuit. In this type of case you will only be putting in one fuse into the fuse tap, not two. |
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10-03-2008, 12:07 PM | #55 | |
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10-07-2008, 06:26 PM | #56 | |
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What you are talking about doing will work just fine, although I could not find a switched power source with the larger fuses when I tested a few locations in my 335. I ended up using a small one. I don't recall which slot I used, but it was originally empty and switched power supply. If you want, let me know and I can tell you which fuse slot I used.
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11-07-2008, 07:58 PM | #57 |
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Finally had a chance to install this. Thanks so much for all of this information.
I did a little different job running wires, than what is posted here. But, for all intents and purposes, it's the same install. Main difference is that instead of mounting the detector high on the windshield, it is low. In between the iDrive and the gauges. Also, because I mounted a Passport 8500 with the "smart cord", I had to find a place to stick the remote. As well as where to string the wires from the remote mounting location, and the fuse box. Plus, I don't want to start pulling interior pieces off and cut them. You guys that have done that have my respect. That looks tough!! So I had to run the wiring behind the glove box, and tie wrap it to the plastic shell of the glovebox. Here are some pics (clicky) edit: I just noticed that the pics look crappy. Tomorrow, when it is light, I will try and take some better pictures.
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11-19-2008, 06:49 PM | #58 |
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my gf just got me v1 for my birthday and i'm a little unclear about the hardwire. this is what i'm gathering from the diy and various replies: you have to buy an "add a fuse" that goes into slot 8 or whatever 12v slot ground with black wire? is that all there is? besides running the wires of course. where are people putting the dual jack v1 power thing? did anyone try the 12v pinch tap thing they provide? any feedback would be appreciated.
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11-19-2008, 08:29 PM | #59 |
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Installed my V1 today with the add-a-fuse. That part is easy enough as long as you can "see with your fingers" as you stretch your hand back in there to pop the fuse in. I used the empty slot 5 and just put a single 10 amp fuse in the add-a-fuse. I don't see any advantage to pulling the fuse out of 8 unless you want the extra work to do.
I took the panel off the bottom as in the original post which helped only to find a screw to attach the ground wire to. Otherwise, it's unnecessary. There's a nice little shelf/cavity to the right of the glove box where you can affix the V1's little power dual jack thingy using the velcro-like stuff they include. (We'll see how that glue on the velco survives the summer.) First pic makes it look like the fuses are right there but don't be fooled, they're back a way. It's easy enough to get the power cord up behind the rubber trim and tucked around the corner of the airbag panel of the a-pillar to get under the headliner. I wasn't pleased with the cord hanging out from the front ledge of the headliner back to the visor so I unscrewed the visor clip, brought the wire through there, and notched a few mm out of the headliner to allow the cord to escape next to the visor clip. Much cleaner. (Looks like I need to re-tuck.) I was planning on putting the remote display in the ashtray again as I did in my STi..... ....but it didn't seem as if it would fit quite as well, would require even more putty and is more out in the daylight so my questionable finish work would therefore be more conspicuous. Thankfully, in the 1, it fits pretty well on the left side of the passenger visor snug up against the sunroof controls. Flash No flash. Still within reach but not really in the passenger's face too much. |
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11-19-2008, 08:41 PM | #60 |
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YO! IUPod you are the man. thanks for the extra write up. if i ever go to Utah...who are we kidding, i'm not white, but thanks for the extra pics.
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11-20-2008, 12:28 AM | #61 | |
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This thread was rather helpful to me, too. For some reason I'm infinitely more nervous tinkering with my BMW than my preceding Subarus....maybe because I'm starting with no rattles! Since you'd just asked about the dual jack, I figured I'd add a couple more pics. Glad it helped. |
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11-20-2008, 03:23 PM | #62 |
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so i just finished the install and wanted to give people who don't know what they are doing some notes.
1. you really don't have to unscrew anything to get to the fuse box. just drop down the glove box by doing 3 things: slide out the pump by pushing it back, unclip the left side and unclip the right side. the glove box will drop right down. 2. you might need to buy 5 things from autozone. a) fuse tap aka "add-a-fuse b) at least two 10 amp fuses, mine were red. c) 16-14 gauge female connector thing, it was transparent light blue d) star 6 prong screw driver for the ground wire, explained later e) zip ties 3. start by connecting the add-a-fuse to the female connector. do this by cutting off the butt end of the add-a-fuse and stripping the wire about 1/8 of an inch. slide the stripped wire into the female connector and crimp tight. you should now be able to connect the add-a-fuse to the valentine 1 dual power jack via the female connector. 4. connect the two 10amp fuses to the add-a-fuse, i had to push hard. put the add-a-fuse into slot 5, refer to IUPOD's picture. the add-a-fuse slid into the fuse box very easily, and is easily removed which is a bit disconcerting, but what can you do. 5. you now have power. test your connections by plugging in your v1, make sure you have it connected to the "main" power source and not the accessory power source in the dual jack. the ground or black wire needs to be touching a ground. i touched it to the 6 prong star screw and voila! v1 should turn on. (make sure your car is on) 6. sandwich the black groundwire by unscrewing the star screw quite a bit, inserting blackwire and screwing back in tight. the OP has a great pic of this. 7. hide wires and tidy up fuse box with zip ties. Good luck! special thanks to OP and IUPOD. without whom i would have had a much harder time figuring this out. |
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12-01-2008, 02:31 PM | #63 |
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Has anyone tried to install their V1 in the grill and then use the hidden display in their car? I live in VA and was thinking about doing this. This is the WORST state to drive fast in!
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12-02-2008, 07:41 PM | #64 |
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The V1 (and all windshield-mouted RDs) are not designed for use outside the car and will not tolerate the water exposure. I suppose that you could craft some weather-proof box to mount it in. You would lose all of the rear detection the V1 offers.
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12-03-2008, 07:40 AM | #65 |
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Thanks. Yeah, I was afraid of that. Looks like I have a project for the winter! I think I might just buy the Blinder system.
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02-07-2009, 10:46 PM | #66 |
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in VA the police have "radar detector-detectors" and the V1 is not an option for you. check out Bel STI detector, or others that are undetectable
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