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05-27-2019, 08:45 AM | #46 |
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For those who upgraded to this, did you have to use 128i front brake lines OR 335i front brake lines?
The OP indicated that he used 128 lines but the manufacturer number he posted was a 335i. Just wanted to price out options at this point. Thank you in advance. |
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05-27-2019, 12:43 PM | #47 | |
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06-05-2019, 05:39 AM | #48 |
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Disconnect the rubber lines at both ends and reinstall once you have torqued up the caliper to the knuckle (110Nm).
This is to avoid twisting the line as the tightened position of the line is different between the original ATE caliper versus the Brembo. It's also far easier than rotating a giant caliper around and around |
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07-28-2019, 10:00 PM | #49 |
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so I did the F22/30 front 340mm brake install today. Style 207 7in or 7.5in wide with 47mm offset doesn't fit, nicked the rotors trying too. Will try the rear 7.5in wheel at some point. I didn't have spacers. style 44 8in wide 47mm offset do fit with no spacers needed. thanks for all those who shared their experience, very helpful. I should add, and I weight the items, off memory with a bathroom mechanical scale, stock setup was 30lbs pads, caliper and rotor, and the new brake setup was 32-33lbs. to stock used rotor was 17 lbs, new 340mm rotor was 22lbs went with BMW blank rotor with aluminum hat. old caliper with used pad n bracket was 13 lb. new 4 pot caliper was 7lbs with pads n pins n clip 11lbs all in.
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08-02-2019, 03:27 PM | #50 |
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I do know this is a dumb question but could you use stock rotors with this caliper? I could get a set of caliper and pads for less than $500cad, but rotors seem to cost around that much aswell. I have relatively new rotors so im just curious if i could use 128i rotors, but F30 pads and caliper
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08-16-2019, 09:27 AM | #51 |
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Confirmed that the 207M wheels DO NOT clear these calipers, even with 10mm spacers. I did not know if a 12mm will make it clear, though. I was grazing the inside barrel on a part of the caliper. Would be good if someone can chime in who made it work with the 207M wheels.
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08-22-2020, 01:40 PM | #54 |
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Just did some research on pistons and master cylinders so I'm putting it here. Some is already in the thread, but one place is nice.
F30 Front Brembos - 40 mm pistons, 340x30 mm rotors (grey brakes) F30 Rear (single piston) - 42 mm piston, 330x20 mm rotors 128i Front Brakes - 54mm piston, 300x24 mm rotors 128i Rear Brakes - 40 mm piston, 300x20 mm rotors Master Cylinders 128i - 23/22 mm - 34336785662 135i - 25/22 mm - 34336785664 1M/M3 - 26/22 mm - 34312283533 F30 335i - 24/22 mm master cylinder - 34336851095 (probably will not fit in an E* car) So a cylinder swap would probably be optimal. I'm currently running the F30 fronts and 42 mm piston rears so I may look at swapping in a 135i master cylinder unless I can find a 24/22 master cylinder from another E era model that'll fit. Need to bed my pads first and then ABS bleed and then try the sport brakes programming in that order to see if pedal feel and travel improves. If it doesn't, then I'll probably get the 135i master cylinder. 34336785663 and 5 (made this PN from the 128 and 135i numbers) appears to be for right side drive vehicles and not an intermediate size.
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08-23-2020, 01:50 PM | #55 | ||||||
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Moving this conversation here to settle master cylinder discussion.
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To summarize: The take-up piston flows extra fluid volume forward to the primary piston's circuit. It does so because of the valve controlling the backfill behind the primary piston. This valve closes under a certain condition so that the fluid can only escape past the primary piston seal. It fills the primary circuit more rapidly until pressure is built and that check valve opens and the primary piston seal seals and then the working piston diameter immediately goes down to the 22 mm present in all these MCs we're discussing. Quote:
On this image of a 135i master cylinder, you can see what I think may be a take up valve (but its in the 22 port so IDK)? So your upgrade to a 1M cylinder just makes the front brakes take up VERY fast and contributes to a shorter overall stroke. But your force applied in the end is no different than the 128i or 135i cylinders. The only confusing thing is why BMW/Ate have the piston diameters on the outlet ports. It seems to suggest those are the working piston sizes, but apparently not. Check out page 7 http://faculty.ccbcmd.edu/~smacadof/...B_a5_m03_Final
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08-23-2020, 02:17 PM | #56 | |
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I suspect what you see is a retaining pin for the piston assembly in the forward position . I'm unwilling to disassemble my new M3 master cylinder to find out.
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08-23-2020, 04:32 PM | #58 |
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I just saw this now, delayed for almost a year. I confirmed that it doesn’t fit without a spacer which was too bad. I figured if you’d try to fit it with those 15mm spacers you got, maybe it will. Chime in here if you find success. I still would love to keep the 207Ms driving on street.
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08-23-2020, 04:44 PM | #59 |
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Good information gathered and shared. I appreciate it. I have not read anyone do the 135i MC with the F30 brake upgrade. If it’s optimal than the M3 MC, I obviously am not qualified to determine, but would be nice to know once this is settled. I am contemplating to do this upgrade soon as I’ve all the parts except the new MC and would be nice to know which one of them works as intended, coupled with the correct pedal feel. I’ve yet to overwork my stock ones on track so I’m not in a hurry. Thanks again for sharing your expertise.
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08-23-2020, 06:50 PM | #60 | |
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I think the 128i MC is a bit inadequate on take up judging by my first drives.
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08-23-2020, 10:15 PM | #61 | |
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The M3 MC did exactly what I wanted, so that's what I'll continue to recommend. If you do the 135i MC, I'd love to compare notes. Huntsville is somewhere between my home and school, so maybe we could arrange a quick car swap
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08-24-2020, 04:37 PM | #62 |
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So fairly interesting experience today. I learned a bit more about NCS Expert and coding. I had added +SPBR to the VO in the CAS, but not NFRM. So I did that. Then I found out you have to "default code" the modules you want that VO coding to affect. So I default coded the DSC. Then redid my coding to remove brake fade compensation and engine power reduction to prevent brake fade. If the dealer gets ahold of my car and programs, it should retain the SPBR settings but I'll have to recode the DSC. No steering recalibration so far.
So some notable values did change such as Front and Rear pressure coefficients. Also SOMEHOW the pedal travel has been reduced significantly. I have NO idea how it's accomplishing this, but I'd go so far as to say the 135i MC I bought may not be needed at all. I'm thinking about doing an A/B test where I drive, then code as fast as I can, then drive again to see if it's really different. Car sat overnight so maybe some bubbles rose out of the DSC or MC?
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08-24-2020, 06:37 PM | #64 | |
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I looked at my TRC files this evening and the front coefficients are the same for 135i and 128i+SPBR. The rear is different which makes sense.
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06-25-2021, 08:54 AM | #65 |
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I was able to score a f30 front and rear setup. Does the rear calipers bolt on with no mods? also does the rotor work with the stock hand brake setup? I have a manual 128i so ill deff need the hand brake.
Any word on the MC swap? is this still needed or just a coding issue for pedal feel? |
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06-25-2021, 10:12 AM | #66 | |
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The rear calipers and rotors will not fit a 128i. I opted to use 328i rear calipers to help the brake bias. They have a 2mm larger piston. A new MC is highly recommended. Coding help me but it wasn't great. The 135i master cylinder made it an amazing upgrade.
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