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11-15-2017, 10:55 PM | #45 |
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Haha, spewing your uninformed opinion will help no one. Marketing is one thing, but results, podiums, testing -- all goes a long way. Don't steer clear of stuff just because it's popular!
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11-15-2017, 11:38 PM | #46 | |
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I wish I had the data but maybe MCS shocks win a lot podiums thanks to their biz dev team getting them rolled out as the spec shock for many series? I'm in NO way bashing any shock company. I run KWs and have very little faith in their twin tube low pressure design for competitive Motorsports. I would swap these for MCS in a heartbeat if I didn't just buy a house and have to do adult things :
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11-24-2017, 07:10 PM | #47 |
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Bit of a recap video of our adventure to Super Lap Battle. I know I owe you guys some in-depth updates -- I'll get to it this week!
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11-29-2017, 02:18 PM | #49 | |
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The car DEFINITELY needs a bigger rear bar and I'd say stiffer front springs at the very least. So before the next outing, I'll be doing 8k front, E92 M3 rear bar and maybe 14k rear springs. Also going to see if BimmerWorld can get me an adustable front lower control arm so I can dail in more neg camber without cutting the shock tower or running an offset control arm bushing.
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11-29-2017, 03:33 PM | #50 | ||
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11-29-2017, 05:07 PM | #51 | |
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The track has since been repaved, tires have improved... Definitely doable. Also, they ran a 1:53.221 in limited class on Hankook slicks.
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11-29-2017, 05:09 PM | #52 | ||
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11-30-2017, 03:24 PM | #53 | ||
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I run MCS on my FRS, decided to spend the coil and get Double Adjustable Remotes. There is no comparison against a KW or other similarly equipped mid-grade shock, IMO. Response off turn-in is incredible, bump damping is way way superior than any other shock I've ran. There is a clear night and day difference how this shock performs than others. With that being said, not all MCS shocks are made the same. You will sacrifice bump travel if you get a 2WNR shock. Quote:
Whoops, just saw this now.... MCS shims are very high grade. Depending on mileage you shouldn't need a 2 year rebuild unless you want to revalve. You can probably go 30-50k miles on MCS and be okay. I've known others than put 4 years on MCS shocks, sent them into service and they dyno just like they left and MCS doesn't do a service on them |
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11-30-2017, 03:26 PM | #54 | ||
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12-01-2017, 12:59 AM | #55 | |
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My car has a lot of the mods you have too, altough i am not quite as finished as you are- i maybe will also start a small thread. On the Video the track seemed really flat, is that right? So you don´t Need the coilovers for heavy "bump correction"? Because now i am running the Standard ST XTA (same as KW CS concerning Spring Rates), i think about trying harder ones in the rear. But since my tracks are not flat like the track in the video (Nürburgring and Bilster Berg) i think too hard wont work that good. So the 255 fit fine, without rubbing? How much camber do you run again? Next season i will try 235/40 AD08R on a BBS RC303, cause i tend to run above the Level where the Pilot super sports (245/35) still feel good. Didn´t wanted to try a 245, cause i was frightened it wont fit without much work. One more question: Did your car have active steering? I read about M3 Steering Rack Conversion all the time, but since my car has this active steering i am not sure if a) the conversion is worth it and b) if it will work. |
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12-01-2017, 07:41 AM | #56 | |
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Getting out on track is a humbling experience. Really helps you understand why seat time > mods. I've had instructors in stock 135i blow by me on track lol |
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12-01-2017, 07:50 AM | #57 | |
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Personally, with the Ohlins...I didn't like the cross talk on the R&T shocks. Trying to increase rebound results in undesirable bump. Driving another FRS equipped with these shocks, trying to increase front rebound ended up making the car skate. Usually, you increase one knob you want to decrease the other (this obviously changes but typical rule of thumb). With Ohlins (and most other SA shocks) you cannot achieve this. FWIW - On my BMW I ran TCK DAs. |
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12-01-2017, 08:29 AM | #58 |
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Be really cautious when doing this. You will not have a "square" setup at all. The front track will be significantly wider than the rear. To really get bigger tire fitment out of a 1-series you need the matching rear 1M quarter panels OR cut up the stock ones and flare them out. Putting on shallower hubs just makes the rear wheelbase even shorter. The only real benefit is that you will have a bit more positive scrub radius depending on how low of an offset wheel you use.
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12-01-2017, 11:24 AM | #59 | ||
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12-01-2017, 12:57 PM | #60 |
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Wondering why you say this? I have not had a set, and have ZERO experience with them, but was planning on some 5100's for the car. (AST has a pretty good NASA contingency, and I get as much of that as I can)
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12-01-2017, 01:15 PM | #61 | |
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They aren't in US anymore, so best of luck trying to service them or get parts. IMO - JRZ or MCS is a much better shock for the same money. Both US made, and known reputation. |
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12-01-2017, 01:31 PM | #62 | |
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I don't know, as I have never had any, but $350 for a regional event, and 1K for the championships would be a nice little prize to have. |
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12-04-2017, 06:08 PM | #63 | |
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As for spring rates and tracks... Buttonwillow has a few major bumps in it, especially if you're going for the fastest lap, which includes some curb hopping. My spring rate choices were guided by what's been successful on this platform, however, despite being advised to run this setup, I find it to be too soft. You can see here, I'm lifting the front inner tire on a turn and the next image is way too much compression coming onto the straight. The stiffer rear sway bar and stiffer springs should help the car behave at the limit. Re: Steering rack. my car doesn't have active steering. The M3 rack has a plug for Servotronic I believe. You can either leave this unplugged or wire it up to function with some coding. I leave it unplugged. No issues whatsoever, minus some noticeably heavier steering, but I don't mind that. The response makes it worth it 100x over.
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12-04-2017, 06:12 PM | #64 | |
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12-04-2017, 09:08 PM | #65 | |
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Also, take into consideration what moving to a stiffer spring will do to your droop travel. You typically want 60% bump and you may end up with 0 droop travel. Moving to a stiffer front spring might also put you in a position where those 255s are no longer enough tire and youll just end up dialing in understeer. Last edited by bbnks2; 12-05-2017 at 07:13 AM.. |
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12-05-2017, 11:33 AM | #66 | |
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