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02-08-2018, 06:03 PM | #45 | |
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02-09-2018, 12:06 PM | #46 |
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That I can do... Supposed to be a crappy day tomorrow and raining, so a perfect day to work in the garage. This will only cover the 128, so I can't address the other issues of the 135 with the DTC. From what I see on my car, this is pretty straight forward. Pics to come shortly along with a short write up...
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02-09-2018, 12:16 PM | #47 | |
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More from me, perhaps, next weekend...
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02-09-2018, 12:27 PM | #48 | |
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02-09-2018, 02:52 PM | #50 | |
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Post some pics here first... so we can see what/how to release this rubber clip thing from the fan shroud. Then you can make a second DIY thread when you have time. Dackel
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02-10-2018, 08:34 AM | #51 |
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Sat morning and it's raining outside as predicted, so time to go attack the belt on the 128. As it turns out, I did find a video on how to replace the belt. Now, that said, this video is for the e9x cars, but since they rock the same motor and configuration, this should work just fine. What I do like is they give the torque values for the replacement aluminum bolt, which is 25n/m, or in my world, 18.4ft/lb.
He initially talks about removing the pins for the front intakes. I didn't find those pins, but the screws holding the intake in are there, so that is a valid part of the video. About to put this to the test, so back in a bit. Below is the best video I could find... Many thanks to "AskTheCarExperts" for producing this video... |
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02-10-2018, 11:16 AM | #52 |
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OK, all done and it's running fine. I've added a few pics to help DIYers do this. It's not a bad job at all, at least on the 128 with the N52 engine. So let's get started...
This is what I ordered from ECStuning and it's everything you need for the 128, belt, tensioner and pulley... These are the sockets you're going to need to remove the tensioner and to relieve the belt tension. You'll also need a 16mm socket to remove the pulley from underneath the alternator. BEFORE YOU START, make sure you take a pic of how the belt is routed.... Now, just follow the steps shown in the video to relieve the belt tension and then remove the belt followed by the tensioner and the pulley. The pulley uses a steel bolt, so that could be reused, but the kit supplied a new bolt. There is also a cap that goes over the nut on the pulley. Sorry, I don't have torque specs for the pulley, so I just set it by feel and called it done. As far as I can tell, my belt has been replaced due to one tell tale sign. You'll see that disk on the back of the pulley. The kit expressly states that disk that's retaining the bolt needs to be removed prior to installing. I remove the disk and installed the pulley and it works perfect.... I did look at my old belt and it looked to be in good shape. A sign of a failing belt is to fold it with the ribs outside. Generally you would see cracks in the ribbing. This one actually looks ok.... I found the hardest part of this install was getting the belt around the bottom side of the crank pulley. There is some sort of bolt or stub that keeps the belt from seating onto the crank pulley. You have to sorta slide the belt in sideways at the bottom to get it to seat. Once that was on properly, the rest of the belt fit fine. Also as noted in the video, the easiest place to put final loop of the belt on was on the tensioner pulley. The video calls for ~18ft/lb of torque followed by a 90degree turn. I do some basic woodworking and I happened to have a large builders square. This was perfect for dialing in the last part of the torque sequence. Just pulled the ratchet from one leg to the other. Done.... All in all, I spent about 1.5 hours doing this job carefully. Like I said, it's not hard and basic hand tools and a torque wrench are all you need. It would be best if you had a either an inch/pound or zero start read on your torque wrench. Mine started at 20ft/lb, so I backed off doing the final 90degree torque. So that's basically it ladies and gents. Hope this write up helps... Last edited by olds350; 02-10-2018 at 11:26 AM.. |
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02-10-2018, 04:13 PM | #54 |
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Great work, and thanks for sharing!
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02-11-2018, 04:29 AM | #55 |
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Pretty simple and straight forward work, thank you.
Replacing the serpentine belts on my 86 944 Turbo is a whole different story, and a bit of a challenge to say the least . |
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02-11-2018, 06:12 AM | #56 |
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I cannot imagine getting all of that out without first removing the fan (which is where I'm stuck, but determined). Hopefully Thursday...
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02-11-2018, 10:05 AM | #57 |
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02-11-2018, 11:14 AM | #58 |
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https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...cting-element/
Here's all you need to do everything, it even has pictures of belt routing, torque values. Everything you need...it's a very helpful website! It does say to remove the fan cowl, but as olds350 said, you probably don't need to.
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02-11-2018, 01:30 PM | #59 |
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Many thanks olds350
I cut and pasted your above DIY pics here, in this new thread in the DIY section. Thanks again, Dackel N52 serpentine belt DIY... http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...4#post22769644
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02-11-2018, 03:19 PM | #60 | |
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Thanks Dackel |
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02-12-2018, 01:20 PM | #62 |
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N55 owners definitely need to remove the fan.
DCT equiped cars need a single torx screw removed from beneath to release the transmission cooler which is secured to the fan shroud. 6MT owners just pull the fan up after removing the clips. Your new tensioner should come fully locked in the un-tensioned position with a pin holding it in place to make belt re-installation easy (you’re supposed to remove the pin once you put the belt on and the tensioner will properly tension everything) This video is a good resource as well, but DCT owners beware - you need to remove your transmission cooler screw from beneath before you pull up. Failure to do so and you will break something! |
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02-12-2018, 02:37 PM | #63 | |
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The fan clips into, well, a clip at the bottom of the radiator, I have seen that while failing to remove my intercooler. I'm going to try to get mine (out and) back together without having to jack up the car and removing the bottom-front cover... but I'm not sure that will be possible and so I'll find out. Is an N52 shorter than an N55? I have the damn flu and Thursday for my DIY might be a reach... but I will get pics.
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02-12-2018, 05:33 PM | #64 |
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For the charge pipe, spray the big rubber grommet with silicone spray or some sort of rubber conditioner. It greatly helps to release and reattach after.
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02-12-2018, 05:41 PM | #65 |
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That's the question... how do I release it
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02-15-2018, 12:01 PM | #66 |
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Well I got the damn thing apart. I have pictures and will write-up a DIY... but the job, here, really is getting the fan out. Replacing the belt and pulleys is trivial (and I didn't even take any pictures of that... unbolt old parts, bolt in new parts, done).
BMW really screwed the pooch with this design, just a few simple no-cost tweaks would make getting the fan out of this car trivial. There was a time when BMWs were designed and built to be maintained and to last. This car, alas, is not and I cannot imagine why.
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