DIY: Individual "M" Audio/Enhanced Premium Sound (Logic 7) Retrofit

[N54andS63TU]

Update part number of the amp 6815969, I believe its 600watt s688a amp going to replace s677 420 watt factory one

[WrathOTM]

Originally Posted by N54andS63TU

Update part number of the amp 6815969, I believe its 600watt s688a amp going to replace s677 420 watt factory one

Can you confirm the signal from radio to amp is good? Sometimes the fiber optic cable breaks in mysterious fashion. You can unplug one end at the amp and the other at the radio and put a flashlight to it on one of the ends and then check the other end to see if you can see the light. I hope you are successful as I want to upgrade again to the B & O amp.

[N54andS63TU]

Originally Posted by WrathOTM

Can you confirm the signal from radio to amp is good? Sometimes the fiber optic cable breaks in mysterious fashion. You can unplug one end at the amp and the other at the radio and put a flashlight to it on one of the ends and then check the other end to see if you can see the light. I hope you are successful as I want to upgrade again to the B & O amp.

Yes, the light turns on but no sound, connected it and unplugged multiple times, just to make sure still nothing

[N54andS63TU]

Got the 600 watt amp from e70/f01 its working now, it blows the 20amp fuse inside glove box at hight volumes, and sound distorts bad after 60% volume.

[WrathOTM]

Go for a 30amp fuse? Maybe increase gauge size on the power wire?

[N54andS63TU]

Originally Posted by WrathOTM

Go for a 30amp fuse? Maybe increase gauge size on the power wire?

going to plug it directly to the battery, will the amp stay on all the time? and will be it okay with car running getting 14.3-14.7v directly from battery?

[VickyK]

Originally Posted by N54andS63TU

going to plug it directly to the battery, will the amp stay on all the time? and will be it okay with car running getting 14.3-14.7v directly from battery?

Do you know what on earth are you even doing? You've introduced 600W Idv amp when the speakers are made for the 400W amp. What else do you think it would do instead of distorting? You probably have already damaged the speakers.

Now you want to run it directly to the battery and then what? Drain it until you cant crank your car anymore?

[Alongat]

Hello everyone - I’m new to this forum and already learning so much. I came across this thread and am hoping someone can help me as I’ve got a bit of a strange configuration. I’ve got a 2008 e82 that has the standard sound package (not logic 7 / Harmon kardon) but previous owner installed an NBT Evo head unit and console controller (and dash display). It’s also got an aftermarket CarPlay adaptor because my iPhone connects to it wirelessly.

What I’d like to do is:
1- upgrade to individual audio speakers (easy and I have access to some)
2- upgrade to the individual audio amplifier I have from an e90 sedan (year unknown)

So: I think I can get the wiring harness from the same e90 that the amp came from - this would be the wiring harness from the e90 head unit to the individual audio amp but I have no idea if it will plug into the back of my NBT evo. Does anyone know if they’re compatible?
Assuming the wiring cable is plug and play,
Does anyone know if I will require any coding or other configuration work to use the individual audio amp and speakers for improved sound quality?

Thanks in advance for anything you can offer to help.

[VickyK]

Originally Posted by Alongat

Hello everyone - I’m new to this forum and already learning so much. I came across this thread and am hoping someone can help me as I’ve got a bit of a strange configuration. I’ve got a 2008 e82 that has the standard sound package (not logic 7 / Harmon kardon) but previous owner installed an NBT Evo head unit and console controller (and dash display). It’s also got an aftermarket CarPlay adaptor because my iPhone connects to it wirelessly.

What I’d like to do is:
1- upgrade to individual audio speakers (easy and I have access to some)
2- upgrade to the individual audio amplifier I have from an e90 sedan (year unknown)

So: I think I can get the wiring harness from the same e90 that the amp came from - this would be the wiring harness from the e90 head unit to the individual audio amp but I have no idea if it will plug into the back of my NBT evo. Does anyone know if they’re compatible?
Assuming the wiring cable is plug and play,
Does anyone know if I will require any coding or other configuration work to use the individual audio amp and speakers for improved sound quality?

Thanks in advance for anything you can offer to help.

If my understanding is right, you won't be able to do any.
1. If you wire just the individual speakers they have lower impedance compared to base. Hence swapping it can potentially ruin your headunit.
2. E90 amps communicate with different protocol compared to nbt system. It won't fire up though using the same fiber optics.

[Alongat]

Originally Posted by VickyK

If my understanding is right, you won't be able to do any.
1. If you wire just the individual speakers they have lower impedance compared to base. Hence swapping it can potentially ruin your headunit.
2. E90 amps communicate with different protocol compared to nbt system. It won't fire up though using the same fiber optics.

Lower speaker impedance will impact my existing amplifier and should not bother the head unit and, if the protocol between my NBT evo head unit and the individual audio amplifier is completely different and not compatible then it sounds as though I need an amplifier from the same era as my NBT evo. With that said, I’m curious how my system is currently working given that my car is using the NBT evo head unit and my original e82 amplifier - somehow sharing the same protocol to enable things to work…

[VickyK]

Originally Posted by Alongat

Lower speaker impedance will impact my existing amplifier and should not bother the head unit and, if the protocol between my NBT evo head unit and the individual audio amplifier is completely different and not compatible then it sounds as though I need an amplifier from the same era as my NBT evo. With that said, I’m curious how my system is currently working given that my car is using the NBT evo head unit and my original e82 amplifier - somehow sharing the same protocol to enable things to work…

You didn't indicate what kind of amplifier you are running. Seems you are running Hifi amp , not TopHifi/Ind. That hifi amp is a dummy amp, where it takes the low level balanced signal and amplifies it. Your previous owner probably rewired to cater it. Doesn't need any communication protocol. Whereas L7 and Individual amp is connected via MOST fiber optics and communicates together with all the options it came with.

[Alongat]

Correct - my car has the black amplifier (hifi not logic 7)

[Alongat]

This is my current amp and an unused cable you can see in this photo

[VickyK]

Originally Posted by Alongat

This is my current amp and an unused cable you can see in this photo

Attachment 3481018

Ok, foremost you will definitely require coding to even attempt to use E90 Ind amp to your setup. Check out youtube clips on coding and understand the process. Can be learned, but make no mistake in rushing to learn it. Take your time.

Since you already purchased e90 amp and if you are really obsessed in getting good quality audio in your setup, i can suggest this:
Get the wiring loom from the same guy.
Check behind the headunit, there should be fiber optics behind your headunit. See if its connected, otherwise connect it.

Code NBT with Indv audio config (frankly, im not sure if you can code it as the retrofit would have used some protocol decoder module, im not sure if you are able to write code back to the headunit. Someone else who has experience please chime in)
I can see the taped fiber above your black hifi - meaning car was provisioned for CD-Changer or someone removed the cd-changer unit.
Use that fiber to connect e90 amp. Get the wiring diagram for the individual amp, power it externally with 12V. Check if you are getting signal /light. Using the wiring loom that you got, just connect one of the Indv speaker that and see if youre getting sound. If you do, congrats, that amp works and you can safely take apart the car to install the new wiring looms and speakers.

If you cant, well you have to troubleshoot further. This is why i didnt even consider retrofitting NBT, because all other dependencies like amp etc. Potential screwups, so many unknowns.

[Alongat]

This is super helpful, thank you.

I’m going to do the following in order:
1- get the individual audio speakers
2- get the e9x cable from the head unit to the individual Audio amp from the same source as the speakers
3- check for physical compatibility of that cable to the back of my NBT evo head unit
4- follow the other steps you’re suggesting

I’ll report back my findings but I figure worst case, I can install the individual audio speakers and use a multi channel aftermarket amplifier if the individual Audio amp doesn’t work or coding and wiring can’t make all this work.

Thank you for your help and patience with me and all my questions.

[QST4IT]

What's up guys.

So decided to upgrade my standard HiFi to a top Hifi in my E90 because I had a local car I was picking parts from so just made it an interesting & cost effective little upgrade. So all my speakers are swapped I added the rear door cards and speakers\tweets, center channel in dash wired up etc. etc. Easy

I have the L7 amp installed. I picked up an adapter for the amp to go from smaller Hifi amp plug to the larger L7 amp plug for speaker wires. Plug & play - Setup for that was super easy.

I'm pretty savvy usually on this stuff, but still just struggling to wrap my head around where to draw the 2 fiber optic lines from that supply the L7 amp.

My fiber optic plug I purchased for amp has two optic cables to the amp and both have enough length of fiber cable to run to the dash but best I can tell I have nowhere there to plug them to. (unless I'm missing something)

Head unit has (2) that are taken up.
My Car already has the most distribution block at rear seat. Seems like I could jump from Most block. But I'm assuming it requires one in- one out for each line so still need a source.

As I said struggling to wrap my head around what seems like it should be a fairly easy tap into the fiber system.

Any tips , thoughts suggestions would be much appreciated.
I Imagine I'm over thinking it , or just missed something in my homework.

Thanks

[VickyK]

Originally Posted by QST4IT

What's up guys.

So decided to upgrade my standard HiFi to a top Hifi in my E90 because I had a local car I was picking parts from so just made it an interesting & cost effective little upgrade. So all my speakers are swapped I added the rear door cards and speakers\tweets, center channel in dash wired up etc. etc. Easy

I have the L7 amp installed. I picked up an adapter for the amp to go from smaller Hifi amp plug to the larger L7 amp plug for speaker wires. Plug & play - Setup for that was super easy.

I'm pretty savvy usually on this stuff, but still just struggling to wrap my head around where to draw the 2 fiber optic lines from that supply the L7 amp.

My fiber optic plug I purchased for amp has two optic cables to the amp and both have enough length of fiber cable to run to the dash but best I can tell I have nowhere there to plug them to. (unless I'm missing something)

Head unit has (2) that are taken up.
My Car already has the most distribution block at rear seat. Seems like I could jump from Most block. But I'm assuming it requires one in- one out for each line so still need a source.

As I said struggling to wrap my head around what seems like it should be a fairly easy tap into the fiber system.

Any tips , thoughts suggestions would be much appreciated.
I Imagine I'm over thinking it , or just missed something in my homework.

Thanks

Mate the MOST distribution block is the only place you can tap the fibers. Both ends go in there.

[BMW_N52130i]

Originally Posted by reisf

So over the last 3 months i had been attempting to install the Individual Audio System i got from a 2012 e92 M3. This is considered one step "better" than the Harmon Kardon system and is an option that is only available on M cars. I finally succeeded in getting this system to work a couple days ago and thought i'd put together an instructional for future reference.

The same general procedure can be used to retrofit the normal Logic 7/Harmon Kardon system (in theory) and i will point out the differences.

First let me say that this is a fairly involved retrofit this instructional assumes basic knowledge on existing audio wiring, the vehicles electronics and the MOST bus. This is also the first DIY I have made so forgive me if i have made any mistakes.

As usual this is purely informative, proceed at your own risk.

Let's start with the parts needed:
1. Individual Audio Amp
2. Individual Audio System Speakers (the full individual audio system uses 13 speakers total, but i only installed them in the existing locations and may add the remaining speakers later)
3. 10 gauge speaker wiring for power
5. 2 x 9.5mm spade socket contacts (generic)
6. 4 x 4mm spade socket contact
6. Inline fuse holder and fuse (50 Amp)
7. 2 Ring terminals (generic)
8. 15 meters of speaker wire
9. 20 pin amp connector 61131383502
10. 20 round socket contacts for 20 pin connector 61130007571
11. Some MOST Bus wiring - this is hard to explain but what you need is the complete wiring with the connector that runs from a MOST device to the MOST distribution block - More on this later.
12. Some heat shrink and electrical tape
13. And of course Coding Tools.

Ok so now let's begin:
First here's a picture of the connectors on the amp:



1. Create the power cable by crimping 2 ring terminals to the same end.
Also add an inline fuse the the positive cable.
Attach power here



And ground here



But don't do that now, we'll leave that until the end.

At the other end of the cable, crimp the two 9.5mm spade sockets and heat shrink to isolate. On the amp (going left to right on the 2 pin blade style socket) pin 2 is negative, pin 1 is positive.
2. Create the MOST jumper - (This step is not needed for logic 7/HK Amp)
Here is a close up of the MOST socket.



The top two metal pins in the socket need to be bridged with a "jumper". In other words, Pin 1 needs to be connected to Pin 2.

This can be done in one of two ways.
I) using this sort of thing



crimp two pins to one wire and insert into the socket, the insert into the MOST socket using tweezers.
II) Using the OEM wiring. This socket is identical to the CD Changer MOST socket, but different from that of the MULF/TCU/Combox. You need whole whole length of wire that runs from the MOST distribution block to the plug/connector. I got this from an old e90 at a wreckers for $10. It has two fibre optic cables and 2 copper cables going to Pins 1 and 2 and it will be the same connector. It was the easy to create the "Jumper" connection as i just soldered the to copper wires together.
This is what it looks like:



Green = fibre optic
brown = copper cables.

Here is a a close up of the connector



3. Add to MOST Loop at the MOST Distribution block.

In my car (e87), the MOST distribution block was under the left rear passenger bolster. To remove it you just pull it out.

This is what it looks like:



Now before you go any further it is important the label each cable that comes in and out of that connector. You will need to sort of "trace" the wires to where they go. Identify the wires coming from your head unit/radio and which wires are going to MOST devices in your boot (MULF/COMBOX/TCU).
It is kind of hard to explain what this thing is, but i'll try. This is like a junction box that connects all MOST devices together. In other words, this links the output of one device to the input of another device.

Here's a crude sketch that i hope explains how this works.

Before:



After:



Be very careful at this stage.
You need to pry apart the connectors using a watch maker's screw driver (very small flat head screw driver). Then you can rearrange the fibre optic wires by lifting the small plastic tab in top of the connector and then removing the cable. Your wiring will vary according to what options you have. basically, you move the rightmost 2 pins over 1 position and insert the new wires in the new space. Just keep thinking "loop" and it will make sense. If you follow the wiring in the above diagrams you will see how one device links to the next to create a loop.

And now with the amp in the loop.



4. Now the next step is to create the replacement speaker harness.

Here's the wiring diagram:



Just crimp the sockets (part #10 above 61130007571) to speaker wire and insert into the 20 pin socket.

For the remaining Pins, crimp to blank wire and insert into the plugs. Wrap the ends of the wires coming from pins 10 and 20 in electrical tape to isolate as these output 12V.

Measure out 4 lengths of speaker wire and run them to the left and right footwells (2 for each)
Measure out 2 lengths of speaker wire and run them to the left and right rear speakers.

For the rear speakers i used this sort of generic connector to leave the original wiring unharmed.



Then for the front speakers i crimped a spade terminal (part #6 mentioned above) and then plugged them into the socket (Pins 1 & 4) under the seats which runs to the door speakers (this is the setup for the base stereo system).



Unfortunately i don't have any pictures for the under seat subwoofer's as i had already installed these + wiring earlier. The process is essentially the same.

* Almost there *

5. Install speakers - Replace all speakers with Individual Audio Speakers. I won't include info on this as this is really straight forward + has plenty of info already.

6. Coding - Using NCSExpert update your vehicle order by removing you're old audio system option code (HIFI - 676, base stereo has none) and replace it with 752. Write your new VO to your CAS and NFRM and then recode your CIC module.

....And you're Done

If you're coming from logic 7/HK (677 or 688) you *shouldn't* need to do any coding if you don't want to.

Other notes:

1. For the e87, if you have no existing amplified sound system, you will need to buy an amp bracket - 65126927697 and 2 locking brackets - 65126908277
2. You will also need to replace the left boot trim. If you have CD changer preparation then you should be fine, just remove the CD Changer bracket.
3. If you are having no sound after this upgrade, double and triple check the MOST Bus wiring. You can confirm this as a problem with the MOST bus by trying to access the bluetooth telephone on your iDrive. If it keeps saying "Please wait" for over 20 seconds there is a problem with the loop.
4. As far as i'm aware, individual audio requires the CIC navigations system (609)

Good evening,
I upgraded the S677 to S752 individual hi-fi system on my bmw e81.
Without having changed the option code on my VO, I have sound coming out of the speakers but I have the impression that the amp can give a higher sound level than currently...
However, when I use NCS expert, it is impossible for me to change the option code 677 to 752, as soon as I click on "back", I have the COAPI 1000 error that comes out. And since this retrofit, the PDC, Gong BMW, Bluetooth nav volume is extremely low...
Any ideas?

Thank you very much for your help.
Max

[nikey22]

@Vickyk
Earlier you mentioned if anyone had a Trace file from a CIC Nav Pro with Logic7 optioned. Did you ever get one? Are there any hidden parameters in the .TRC file that we need to adjust?

Thanks!