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      01-31-2012, 12:37 PM   #661
bryce
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^vishnu procede has traction control already implemented. it works very well. i doubt cobb tuning will come out with a traction control feature; they'd need an auxillary box like the procede to control it.

exhausts are really a personal opinion. i prefer catless downpipes with the stock exhaust. if you want a little more volume, delete the secondary cats and put in resonators.




thanks The1 for the responses, i agree with everything you posted
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      02-03-2012, 09:41 AM   #662
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ttt for general questions
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      02-06-2012, 04:05 PM   #663
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ttt for general questions
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      02-07-2012, 11:45 AM   #664
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How much power can the stock n54 clutch hold?
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looks like unicorn vomit.
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      02-07-2012, 11:52 AM   #665
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Originally Posted by Angerman View Post
How much power can the stock n54 clutch hold?
depends on driving style and if you track the car or not. my old 135i's stock clutch was holding fine for over 20k miles with FBO and procede tune. the newer tunes (procede aggressive, cobb stage 2+) will put more strain on the stock clutch than it can handle. my 335i clutch started to slip a week or two after uploading the procede aggressive maps (fbo, stage 3). i don't know what torque value, but i'd estimate over 400 wtq will put excessive wear on the stock clutch and cause it to slip earlier
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      02-07-2012, 09:22 PM   #666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryce View Post
depends on driving style and if you track the car or not. my old 135i's stock clutch was holding fine for over 20k miles with FBO and procede tune. the newer tunes (procede aggressive, cobb stage 2+) will put more strain on the stock clutch than it can handle. my 335i clutch started to slip a week or two after uploading the procede aggressive maps (fbo, stage 3). i don't know what torque value, but i'd estimate over 400 wtq will put excessive wear on the stock clutch and cause it to slip earlier
Thanks for the info. I was going to do COBB AP first (Stage 1), but now it seems I'm back to the FMIC as the first mod; just to keep my clutch wear down till it needs to be replaced (23,000 miles right now). Not sure how long the clutches go for on these cars....(I don't track, or go to the drag strip, just a DD).
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looks like unicorn vomit.

Last edited by Colt; 02-08-2012 at 10:59 AM..
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      02-07-2012, 09:37 PM   #667
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angerman View Post
Thanks for the info. I was going to do COBB AP first (Stage 1), but now it seems I'm back to the FMIC as the first mod; just to keep my clutch wear down till it needs to be replaced (23,000 miles right now). Not sure how long the clutches go for on these cars....(I don't track, or go to the drag strip, just a DD).
If you owened a subaru before, this clutch lasts about 10 times as long

I wouldn't worry about just a simple tune and no modifications.

when you start getting into the higher octane tunes with front mount and downpipes, it might be a little more noticable.

It's been pretty sturdy for me so far, and I'm almost fully modded. mind you, I can turn my chip on and off while driving.
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      02-08-2012, 11:00 AM   #668
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Another Q:


My brakes are starting to squeak when coming to a stop also, but doesn't do it when tapping the brakes on the highway (for example), it only happens when I am coming to a complete stop; and begin braking at roughly 25mph it starts or so? Anyone know if this is a common issue or? I have the M Sport package on my 135i if that makes a difference at all.

I only have 23k on the car, just wanna make sure this is a common issue or not
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looks like unicorn vomit.
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      02-08-2012, 11:21 AM   #669
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^that's a common issue. some have fixed that issue by driving on an open road and slamming on the brakes as hard as you can, often it takes a few times. it's something with the 135i's brakes getting glazed over. i did it on my old 135i a few times, the squeaks were gone
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      02-08-2012, 11:36 AM   #670
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Quote:
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^that's a common issue. some have fixed that issue by driving on an open road and slamming on the brakes as hard as you can, often it takes a few times. it's something with the 135i's brakes getting glazed over. i did it on my old 135i a few times, the squeaks were gone
I was planning on having them resurfaced and/or softer pads, but I guess I'll give this a try first lol
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      02-08-2012, 11:38 AM   #671
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I took mine to the dealer way back in the day and asked about it, they went for a ride with me and basically said. "you're not driving the breaks hard enough."
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      02-08-2012, 12:39 PM   #672
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I have a lot of questions today for some reason, stuff just keeps popping up in my head.

What voids the warranty? FMIC, intake, upgraded BOV/diverter pipe? I know DPs probably void it. Just trying to figure out what I can do first as a performance mod and not screw up my warranty (ends in June) just so if anything DOES happen.
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looks like unicorn vomit.
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      02-08-2012, 03:15 PM   #673
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angerman View Post
I have a lot of questions today for some reason, stuff just keeps popping up in my head.

What voids the warranty? FMIC, intake, upgraded BOV/diverter pipe? I know DPs probably void it. Just trying to figure out what I can do first as a performance mod and not screw up my warranty (ends in June) just so if anything DOES happen.
technically speaking, no aftermarket parts can "void" your warranty. you can install whatever you want. if something you've installed can be traced to a problem, the dealer can refuse warranty service because of the aftermarket part. for example, if you install an exhaust and your bumper begins to melt, the bumper won't be covered under warranty.

i've had the dealership change my oil, replace hpfp and injectors under warranty, plus a few other minor warranty repairs, all while having my car fully modded with the procede on map 0. downpipes, intakes, intercooler, plus interior and exterior mods. most dealerships don't really care about mods. they aren't BMW corporate, they're privately owned and they get paid by BMW north america to do warranty work.
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      02-08-2012, 03:15 PM   #674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The1 View Post
I took mine to the dealer way back in the day and asked about it, they went for a ride with me and basically said. "you're not driving the breaks hard enough."
go out on a deserted road, get up to 60, then slam on the brakes as hard as you can until you come to a stop. do that once or twice and see if the squeaking is gone
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      02-08-2012, 06:20 PM   #675
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryce View Post
go out on a deserted road, get up to 60, then slam on the brakes as hard as you can until you come to a stop. do that once or twice and see if the squeaking is gone
Will have to give it a shot.

Thanks for the advice about the warranty issue, my old car was the same way but stealerships were more of an issue and don't know how the BMW dealership handles these types of things. But I understand the argument.
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      02-10-2012, 11:00 AM   #676
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      02-13-2012, 03:41 PM   #677
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up for general questions
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      02-13-2012, 04:22 PM   #678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angerman View Post
Will have to give it a shot.

Thanks for the advice about the warranty issue, my old car was the same way but stealerships were more of an issue and don't know how the BMW dealership handles these types of things. But I understand the argument.
Dont stop the car while doing the bedding! Do some repeated hard stops till about 5mph. Do this 4 or 5 times till you smell the brakes cooking and you get brake fade. After this is done continue driving w/o stopping until the brakes are cooled off(about 10-15 min should do). The last thing you want to do is stop the car with very hot brakes. This will only transfer friction material to the rotors directly where the pads are touching. Not good.

this should ideally be done with new or cut rotors and pads. At the least, Remove pads and scuff with sandpaper to remove the glaze and also scuff up the rotors well(both sides)
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      02-13-2012, 04:44 PM   #679
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYC6 View Post
Dont stop the car while doing the bedding! Do some repeated hard stops till about 5mph. Do this 4 or 5 times till you smell the brakes cooking and you get brake fade. After this is done continue driving w/o stopping until the brakes are cooled off(about 10-15 min should do). The last thing you want to do is stop the car with very hot brakes. This will only transfer friction material to the rotors directly where the pads are touching. Not good.

this should ideally be done with new or cut rotors and pads. At the least, Remove pads and scuff with sandpaper to remove the glaze and also scuff up the rotors well(both sides)
Thanks for the detailed response, I will give this a shot, if it doesn't work I will have my mechanic do some fixing. New to this car (and BMW), so will take some getting used to it's way of working things....
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      02-17-2012, 10:34 AM   #680
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Originally Posted by bryce View Post
up for general questions
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      02-23-2012, 08:04 AM   #681
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what B man?
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      02-23-2012, 12:44 PM   #682
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what B man?
sup T! long time, man. how's things with your car? i've got my e90 running really well, but damn i miss my 1-series sometimes

are you going with the hpf turbo kit once they redesign the mani?
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