My DCT lag, idle issue, and lurching problems.

[SamelCamel]

Originally Posted by homewrecker07

I have to report that my 2 years of issues with surging with A/C on has been solved!

I've had the car updated to the latest DME sometime last year but it didn't really go away. Car seemed to shift a little better but the issue was still there.

I just found these threads and saw that Bimmergeek's Protool can reset adaptations. I finally downloaded the tool, hooked up my K+DCAN cable with a OTG USB-C dongle and connected. Bought their diagnostic license and reset every adaptation I could find.

Under Drivetrain
Engine -> Functions -> Clear Adaptations
Transmission -> Functions -> Clear adaptations (there were 6, i cleared them all).

NO MORE SURGING WHEN COMING TO STOP!

View post on imgur.com

Also the shifts seems smoother in nonsport mode and faster in sports, that could be the buttdyno speaking

I'm elated now, thank you BimmerGeeks !

I have the same tool, but I don't believe the RESET ADAPTATIONS are the same as using the INPA software. When I reset mine initially about a year or two ago, it fixed everything DCT-related about 98%. It now acts like it's coming back. I only get hesitation when using the A/C. When I reset adaptations with the BimmerGeeks software, it just says reset. When I would reset it through INPA, the entire car and gauges would "reboot" and I would get an error light the first time the car was started after that. It would go off after the initial start up.

I don't think the BimmerGeeks tools is resetting all the adaptations...



-Sam


PS. I'll try to reset again tonight to make sure I didn't miss a setting. I'll check back in.

[homewrecker07]

Originally Posted by SamelCamel

I have the same tool, but I don't believe the RESET ADAPTATIONS are the same as using the INPA software. When I reset mine initially about a year or two ago, it fixed everything DCT-related about 98%. It now acts like it's coming back. I only get hesitation when using the A/C. When I reset adaptations with the BimmerGeeks software, it just says reset. When I would reset it through INPA, the entire car and gauges would "reboot" and I would get an error light the first time the car was started after that. It would go off after the initial start up.

I don't think the BimmerGeeks tools is resetting all the adaptations...



-Sam


PS. I'll try to reset again tonight to make sure I didn't miss a setting. I'll check back in.

Well, there were 7 total adaptation resets I did (1 for engine and 6 for transmission). It solved my problem that I was dealing with so I'm quite happy with it. Plus, since I have the tool, I can keep resetting it if it acts up again.

I figure if the whole concept of "adaptation" is changing the car's response to the environment it's being driven in, an occasional reset is good thing and I don't mind doing it once a season.

[mangombia]

I recently got an '11 E88/N55 DCT w/about 40k mi. It is bone stock, and don't know what updates have been put on but all its required service was performed by a BMW dealer. From delivery it had the dreaded launch delay and the terrifying RPM drop/surge w/AC on in traffic. There was no way I could let my wife drive it that way. I put the MHC Stage 1 DCT tune (w/only OEM CAT DP option checked) and reset all the adaptations. No more launch lag, no more RPM drop/surge.

[TurboTom]

Can confirm the fix posted by OP in the bottom section of the first post resolved my DCT issues after the SIB had been performed without results. I think you need the SIB completed to get you on the newest firmware first then clear the trans, throttle, and air mass adaptations to clear out the car's old bad habits. I've had my car almost two years and been dying to sell it because of this issue. I'm finally happy.

[DuckCoverRoll]

Hi all,

I've had a scare the other day driving my 135is on the freeway (DCT). I was exiting the freeway when suddenly I got a transmission malfunction warning stating that I need to drive the car moderately. I was able to lurch my way home and noticed that it would skip gear 2 and 4 - so when I was in complete stop, it would engage 1st gear, and then 3rd after revving the engine (manual mode did not work). I turned off the car and had it towed to a local independent mechanic, who found that the error cleared itself, and suspected that it could be an issue with the mechatronic unit (he didn't see any leaks). I've driven it for the past few days without any issues (both in manual mode and in auto mode). I'm taking it to dealer for a second opinion, but wanted to check whether anyone has had similar experience? thanks!

[dtla1]

Originally Posted by DuckCoverRoll

Hi all,

I've had a scare the other day driving my 135is on the freeway (DCT). I was exiting the freeway when suddenly I got a transmission malfunction warning stating that I need to drive the car moderately. I was able to lurch my way home and noticed that it would skip gear 2 and 4 - so when I was in complete stop, it would engage 1st gear, and then 3rd after revving the engine (manual mode did not work). I turned off the car and had it towed to a local independent mechanic, who found that the error cleared itself, and suspected that it could be an issue with the mechatronic unit (he didn't see any leaks). I've driven it for the past few days without any issues (both in manual mode and in auto mode). I'm taking it to dealer for a second opinion, but wanted to check whether anyone has had similar experience? thanks!

Does the transmission temperature warning light come on? Your issue sounds like a big pain I went through. Had to really rev the engine high up to get it to start moving. The transmission would down shift very harshly at what seemed to be random times (would downshift into high RPM while driving casually). The error would clear itself for me too, but it would come back all the time as well, either randomly while driving, or as I pulled into the driveway of the duplex I was living at. Let me know if this is what you have, I can talk you through my thoughts and what I did to fix it.

[DuckCoverRoll]

Originally Posted by dtla1

Does the transmission temperature warning light come on? Your issue sounds like a big pain I went through. Had to really rev the engine high up to get it to start moving. The transmission would down shift very harshly at what seemed to be random times (would downshift into high RPM while driving casually). The error would clear itself for me too, but it would come back all the time as well, either randomly while driving, or as I pulled into the driveway of the duplex I was living at. Let me know if this is what you have, I can talk you through my thoughts and what I did to fix it.

Thanks! Yes - sounds similar -- I don't recall whether the transmission warning light came on, but the transmission malfunction notification showed up on my nav screen (it said, transmission fault, drive moderately - some gears may not be available). Would love to hear what happened with yours and what steps you took to fix it. My independent mechanic didn't find any leaks (which he thought could cause a short on the transmission sensor). If it is mechatronics, I'm looking at a huge repair bill (ugh!). thanks!

[dtla1]

Originally Posted by DuckCoverRoll

Thanks! Yes - sounds similar -- I don't recall whether the transmission warning light came on, but the transmission malfunction notification showed up on my nav screen (it said, transmission fault, drive moderately - some gears may not be available). Would love to hear what happened with yours and what steps you took to fix it. My independent mechanic didn't find any leaks (which he thought could cause a short on the transmission sensor). If it is mechatronics, I'm looking at a huge repair bill (ugh!). thanks!

I ended up going the easy (but expensive) route and had my clutches and fluid replaced. Knowing what I know now I would do the following things in this order checking to see if it fixes the issue after each:
-Check for leaks-done
-Reset ALL transmission adaptations
-Have shop check fluid level and fill if necessary (special procedure required)
-Replace filter and fluid (this I where we get to choose our adventure, do you replace only the bigger filter or do you also replace the side filter[IIRC replacing the side filter requires the transmission to be dropped so more $$], I honestly don't remember what each does right now)

I might have missed something, but if all of this fails then might be time for new clutches. I'll note that I saw my old clutches after they were taken off the car and hey had a couple of tiny scorch marks, and really no clutch material missing, but I'm also not an expert on wear for these things.

How many miles are on the car?

[DuckCoverRoll]

Thanks for this! How do you reset transmission adaptations? Is this something I can do myself?

I have a little under 40,000 miles right now -- it's my DD and I love the car except for the DCT. 've been dealing with lag/ idle/ lurch since I bought the car, and the dealer always insisted that there are no SIB updates available -- I've learned to live with it, but this transmission malfunction issue brings it to a whole new level.

Did you replace the clutch after warranty? Or was it covered? If after, what sort of bill were you looking at? I was told that the mechatronics (if it needs to be replaced) would be around $6k - $7k.

[TurboTom]

Originally Posted by DuckCoverRoll

Thanks for this! How do you reset transmission adaptations? Is this something I can do myself?

I have a little under 40,000 miles right now -- it's my DD and I love the car except for the DCT. 've been dealing with lag/ idle/ lurch since I bought the car, and the dealer always insisted that there are no SIB updates available -- I've learned to live with it, but this transmission malfunction issue brings it to a whole new level.

Did you replace the clutch after warranty? Or was it covered? If after, what sort of bill were you looking at? I was told that the mechatronics (if it needs to be replaced) would be around $6k - $7k.

Bimmergeeks Protool can reset adaptations. When I finally fixed my DCT issues last week I had my Indy reset it for me through INPA so I didnt have to shell out for the app license. He charged me $20. It's amazing how $20 fixed the issue I've been having for two years (since I bought the car) that 5 BMW dealerships have tried and failed to fix.

[dtla1]

Originally Posted by DuckCoverRoll

Thanks for this! How do you reset transmission adaptations? Is this something I can do myself?

I have a little under 40,000 miles right now -- it's my DD and I love the car except for the DCT. 've been dealing with lag/ idle/ lurch since I bought the car, and the dealer always insisted that there are no SIB updates available -- I've learned to live with it, but this transmission malfunction issue brings it to a whole new level.

Did you replace the clutch after warranty? Or was it covered? If after, what sort of bill were you looking at? I was told that the mechatronics (if it needs to be replaced) would be around $6k - $7k.

Somebody already replied regarding transmission reset cost so I won't address that.

My clutch replacement all in was about $4,500. I also had the oil pan gasket replaced at the same time (slight leak) as well as the motor mounts, for another couple hundred bucks on top of that.

At 40k miles though I don't think that should be your issue, unless you've been doing launch controls every now and again, or a bit more frequently.

I was at 90k miles when I started having these issues.

[DuckCoverRoll]

Thanks all! I went to dealership on Friday and they confirmed that there is no leak but they found a bunch of error codes re: low voltage. Consequently they recommend replacing the battery, which they think might be the reason the dct acted up. They also charged me an hour of labor (ugh) for resetting the Transmission adaptation. I would have preferred to wait until I get back to my independent mechanic but I’m leaving town for a few weeks. Hopefully the bTtery change will help but not feeling too confident about it. Will keep you all posted if this happens again.

[TurboTom]

Originally Posted by DuckCoverRoll

Thanks all! I went to dealership on Friday and they confirmed that there is no leak but they found a bunch of error codes re: low voltage. Consequently they recommend replacing the battery, which they think might be the reason the dct acted up. They also charged me an hour of labor (ugh) for resetting the Transmission adaptation. I would have preferred to wait until I get back to my independent mechanic but I’m leaving town for a few weeks. Hopefully the bTtery change will help but not feeling too confident about it. Will keep you all posted if this happens again.

Someone previously that posted about DCT issues said the dealer ended up resolving it by coding the car to their battery correctly. Not so sure about that but in any event worth a mention. The adaptations I had to reset to fix my problem (it's been 100% gone for 400 miles now) are the following: ALL DCT adaptations, throttle adaptations, and air pressure adaptations. Reset those and the car is completely fixed. Hope yours is good to go now!

[forcedot]

Originally Posted by TurboTom

Someone previously that posted about DCT issues said the dealer ended up resolving it by coding the car to their battery correctly. Not so sure about that but in any event worth a mention. The adaptations I had to reset to fix my problem (it's been 100% gone for 400 miles now) are the following: ALL DCT adaptations, throttle adaptations, and air pressure adaptations. Reset those and the car is completely fixed. Hope yours is good to go now!

What tool did you reset it with?

My car loves to jump forward after getting off the brake and will feel like it hesitates as it climbs RPM in first gear from 700-1000+. My DCT will also surge in power occasionally when coming to a stop and when idling at a light the RPM will out of nowhere occasionally surge up to 1500 RPM and the car will shake for a second.

I haven't really had an AC issue but wondering if anyone has been having a similar issue and if they fixed it.

I've reset transmission adaptations with ISTA and it will fix itself for a few days and then come back. I find the car drives rougher as the engine warms up and the more I drive in sport/manual mode as if the car starts to adjust to my driving.

[6ixSpd]

I would flash the updated DCT and DME software.

I used ZB# 8606072 (135iS) for the DCT, and PPK flash for the DME.

The original software caused the car to roll back and forth ever so slightly when in P, and also had common RPM surge when coming to a full stop with the A/C on.

Immediately after buying the car, I flashed the above versions of the DCT + DME software and re-calibrated the setpoints for the DCT in ISTA. I have absolutely no issues at all for a month now. It drives fantastically.

[Snakevenom]

Was there ever a fix/ conclusion to this?
I have a 2012 with these problems...I always just feather the gas pedal and compensated but its annoying as hell...

[homewrecker07]

Originally Posted by Snakevenom

Was there ever a fix/ conclusion to this?
I have a 2012 with these problems...I always just feather the gas pedal and compensated but its annoying as hell...

Bimmergeeks Protool reset adaptions for all settings.

Engine - 1
Transmission - 6

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...0&postcount=65

[z0mghii]

Hm, protools throws error code 0x33 for the engine reset, but success on the other 6 in transmission.

Regardless, it seems that my lurching has been fixed.

[davids]

Originally Posted by zx10guy

I figure I would just start my own thread on this as I've been pretty vocal about my problems. So I finally got to the point with the drivability issues I got the car into the dealership. The car was literally almost undriveable in the horrid stop and go traffic of DC with the A/C on. Idle stumbling, then surging. With the surge, the car would want to jump forward. You can imagine how this is like when you're stop and go for several miles.

So I got an update from my SA today. Here are the notes the tech put into the system and they think they got it fixed. We'll see. My SA test drove my car with me in it when I dropped it off. I wanted to make sure he knows what I'm dealing with. He wants to test drive my car again to make sure the problem is really gone before releasing it back to me.

VERIFIED CUSTOMER COMPLAINT, TEST DROVE THE CAR
NOTED VEHICLE IS EQUIPPED WITH DCT TRANSMISSION AND SEEMS
LIKE THE STALLING ISSUE IS RELATED TO BOTH ENGINE AND
TRANSMISSION. ATTACHED CHARGER, PERFORMED SHORT TEST, NOTED
UNDERVOLTAGE FAULT PRESENT. RAN "ENERGY DIAGNOSIS" NOTED LOW
STATE OF CHARGE WAS PRESENT FOR 4 DAYS. (NOTE THAT VEHICLE
WILL BEHAVE DIFFERENTLY WITH LOW BATTERY VOLTAGE" RAN "IDLE
SPEED" TEST PLAN AND BUMPED THE IDLE FOR AC AND LOW VOLTAGE
CONDITIONS BY 100RPM. D6121 00ENDIAG 73 507, D6121 00000000
01 901 TEST DROVE THE VEHICLE NOTED STALLING ISSUE IS
RESOLVED BUT VEHICLE STILL SURGES FORWARD. RAN "DCT
TRANSMISSION FLUSHING FUNCTION" AND BLED THE ENTIRE COOLING
LINES. RAN "GEARBOX ADAPTATION TEST PLAN" AND RE ADJUSTED
BOTH TORQUE CHARACTERISTIC AND ALSO TRANSMISSION SLIPPING
POINT. TEST DROVE THE VEHICLE AROUND TO SET A BASE LINE FOR
TRANS AND ENGINE ADAPTATIONS

I know this is an old tread but I have the exact same condition with a/c and coming to a stop. My Mecahnic says there is an issue with front main seal that can cause air in crank case and can affect the idol. He showed me a service bulletin but I do not have it handy. Should I try the list shown here first or proceed with the seal? Totally stock with 60k miles. Meticulously maintained original owner.

[homewrecker07]

Originally Posted by davids

I know this is an old tread but I have the exact same condition with a/c and coming to a stop. My Mecahnic says there is an issue with front main seal that can cause air in crank case and can affect the idol. He showed me a service bulletin but I do not have it handy. Should I try the list shown here first or proceed with the seal? Totally stock with 60k miles. Meticulously maintained original owner.

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...0&postcount=65
This is the cheapest and the most versatile fix as you'll have options to do other things with the tool. If it doesn't work, confirm your battery is good and properly coded first, then try the reset tool again. After that, go with your mechanic.

[zx10guy]

Originally Posted by davids

I know this is an old tread but I have the exact same condition with a/c and coming to a stop. My Mecahnic says there is an issue with front main seal that can cause air in crank case and can affect the idol. He showed me a service bulletin but I do not have it handy. Should I try the list shown here first or proceed with the seal? Totally stock with 60k miles. Meticulously maintained original owner.

I ran across this same discussion about a main seal causing a vacuum leak issue. In the case of what I saw, it was a rear main seal on an Audi. The Youtuber is a mechanic that owns his shop. How he found it was using a smoke machine.

With that said, I highly doubt a leaky seal would only rear its head only when the A/C is turned on. It would happen all the time affecting idle whether the A/C is on or not. I personally would go have the adaptations reset and go from there. From what I remember, my dealer charged me around $160 or so to get it done which isn't that bad. Since then I have a pretty powerful scan tool which if my car starts acting up again, I will attempt to see if I can do the adaptations reset with it.

[z0mghii]

Originally Posted by homewrecker07

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show...0&postcount=65
This is the cheapest and the most versatile fix as you'll have options to do other things with the tool. If it doesn't work, confirm your battery is good and properly coded first, then try the reset tool again. After that, go with your mechanic.

I just do this once a year now and the car is